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New Valve controlled exhaust

8K views 32 replies 10 participants last post by  JWA 
#1 ·
Hi brain trust,

Need help!

Bought a new exhaust system from Pogea but don't have any installation guide on the pneumatic plumbing or setup instructions. Does any one have experience with a similar exhaust from Pogea or Madness?



Also, during removal of the old exhaust I managed to shear one of the flange studs on the cat converter!
Worse still it is the one stud which is going to be difficult to press out and replace because of its proximity to the cat body..

Any ideas on what to do here?
 
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#3 ·
Also big thanks to Jamie at Alfaworks UK for the excellent removal guide for the turbo on his website - massive pain in the ass of a job but made twice as easy by the guidance!
 
#4 ·
Here is a photo of the valve control - it seems to run off vacuum pressure from the car which activates the valve via a solenoid switch and remote mechanism - but i have no idea where to plumb in the vacuum pressure from the engine....

 
#5 ·
Wow, lots of goodies!
Can Pogea not provide support for the valve actuator install? They might have ideas about the stud, or perhaps someone else here who has had their cars apart and experience. Sorry I'm not that person.
Good luck with it, and looking forward to reports when you are over this hurdle.
 
#7 ·
Gilly, nice stuff! I was going to get his center version of the system but gave up after his exit from the US. I have just ordered the Capristo version of the valved exhaust. Way more expensive, but I need the muffler when the wife is in the car. They also provide little to no support on how to hook the system up.

But here is my basic understanding. There is a vacuum accumulator in the engine compartment. Most of these systems control the valve with the vacuum system. The valve needs to be hooked to the vacuum system via a solenoid or some electronic device. I think I am going to take power directly from the battery, but I will look closer when I get it.

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#8 ·
HI there is an online guide of sorts on the capris to website - but not specific to the 4c just generic. I think they advise to use a power source on the switched ignition circuit as otherwise you may draw constantly from the battery and drain it while it's parked.
 
#9 ·
Yes, I have been going back and forth with Matt (alfa9supply). Capristo advertises that their system shuts off after 10 minutes to prevent battery drain. Still working on the install details, but your system should be close, but without the back pressure sensor.

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#10 ·
Hi GIlly,

Don't connect it too the battery because as you mentioned it will drain the battery. Use a test light to find a circuit that's only powered when the ignition is on and tie into that. I usually use a "posi-tap", google that if you don't know what it is. That will enable you to tap into your car's wiring without cutting or damaging a single wire. I'm not sure how much power that device needs, but as a general rule, the power for the O2 sensor provides a reliable ignition on power source for low demand items like solenoids.

As for the bolt, soak it in liquid wrench, get a "C" clamp and a socket. Put the socket on the bolt head side so that you can use the clamp to press it through. It may help to use vice grips and twist it back and forth a big to loosen it.

Greg
 
#15 ·
Hi GIlly,

As for the bolt, soak it in liquid wrench, get a "C" clamp and a socket. Put the socket on the bolt head side so that you can use the clamp to press it through. It may help to use vice grips and twist it back and forth a big to loosen it.

Greg
Usually on this type of stud, the portion pressed into the flange is knurled, so you won't be able to twist it out.

You will probably need to heat the flange, get it glowing a dull red, and then a couple of taps with a hammer should move it out. Helps to have two people so you can whack it as soon as you pull the heat away.

To install the new one (assuming you can get a replacement stud) use a socket or stack of washers on it, and use a spare nut to draw it in. Go slow and don't force anything as you have to be careful not to damage the threads.

HTH
 
#12 · (Edited)
Gilly, Have you tried PMing Eduard on this forum? He still looks in occasionally and has responded to my enquiries with promptness. My problem was with the Australian distributor Eduard put me on to. He rang me back after my first email then didn't respond to further questions from 2 subsequent emails. I don't appreciate my emails going unanswered. Maybe it's me in the impression I project. Subsequently I chose Jamie's clone ecu. This is no criticism of the Pogea product. More like taking advantage of what I think will be a short-lived drop in the value of the pound. The email thing too kind of poisoned my thinking. I think there is a lesson to be learned by vendors in there somewhere. Seems strange there were no instructions on a technical piece like this.
 
#14 ·
Greg, great suggestion on using the O2 sensor power. Generally these devices don't use much power, but what I was going to do is put an amp meter on it to measure power usage even after powered down to determine best circuit to use.

I haven't looked, but where is the vacuum accumulator?
 
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#28 ·
Greg, great suggestion on using the O2 sensor power. Generally these devices don't use much power, but what I was going to do is put an amp meter on it to measure power usage even after powered down to determine best circuit to use.

@DrPyro2k and @Gilly - did you end up tapping into the O2 sensor for switched power? How did that work? I’m routing a backup camera that I want to be able to use at any time while driving. Since there are no ideal routes into the tub, I’m exploring using a wireless adapter, but I’d still need to find switched power in the engine compartment to use.
 
#18 ·
For those interested or unfortunate enough to do the same thing, I'm happy to report that the studs came out relatively easily via a ball joint spliter. From there it was an easy job to tap 10mm threads into the flange, install the new 10mm studs and drill out the opposite flange to accept the new studs.

Reinstalling the bigger still took 4 hours though - what a pain!

 
#26 ·
Gilly, I was told there is a vacuum accumulator in the engine bay. I am currently hunting through a service manual to find the best location. The Waste Gate solenoid valve (#2 in photo) and vacuum accumulator (#1 in photo) is located on the right side of the engine bay right underneath the air intake hose.

I'm still searching for the best spot for these valves... I'll keep you up to date if I find a better spot...
 

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#30 ·
I just accidentally found the location I used when I was looking in my emails for something else....

"I ended up powering the control unit off F17 fuse in the Junction Unit in the engine bay of the car. This is a switched fuse that is for "Primary Engine System Loads (ignition coil power supply)” and allows me to use a fuse tap, so I don’t need to splice or damage the wire harness."
 
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#32 · (Edited)
For a backup camera why not take power from one of the two backup lights....that is what I did. Spliced into the wires right before the wires go to the light bulb socket both positive and negative is right there. I used it to power a Garmin BC30 that sends a wireless image to my Garmin GPS . No wires need to be run into the cabin. I would avoid drilling the CF tub though. As I recall there are a couple of places in the floor under the seats that are holes with rubber plugs to seal them...could just run the wires there if you must have power taken from in the cabin. If you want full time power when the car is on you could connect to the wires going to the accessory plug (cigarette female socket) in the center console but this wouldn't work for a backup camera since you only want it on when backing. I have had my backup camera for over 2 years and works like a charm and no issues or electronic gremlins. As long as you can get the car up a bit in the back with ramps etc. you can reach the backup lights and you don't have to remove any under car panels, etc. There is also enough room and bit of a shelf inside the bumper area where you can stash some wires and any components.
 
#33 ·
For a backup camera why not take power from one of the two backup lights....
Because I would also like to be able to pull up the camera while driving. Sometimes in heavy traffic it would be nice to have one more point of confirmation that there really isn’t anyone in the blind spot, and I figure that if I have a rear view camera I might as well be able to use it at any time.
 
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