Unfortunately customer doesn't want any mods, just 100% stock looking car. I still get hyped though, from time to time, to get 208 GTB turbo and make a resto-mod out of it. You now, suspension, semis, engine. Nothing crazy. It's just that idea that is very appealing to me of having a sorted out oldtimer, being capable to hang up with modern cars. It's just so much style and soul in it.
Ferrari 246 Dino progressing well. Here is new outer bushing kit to overhaul rear control arms. It's a multi piece construction consisting of CrMo housing and inner sleeve, both Zinc plated for corrosion resistance, the sliding bush made of PET-GL, a high end material that boasts self greasing properties and durability greatly surpassing commonly used alloys.
Lots of e-mails coming in the past days regarding the Black Friday deals.
Yes, GMS Black Friday promo campaign is in the works. It will be active from 26th-30th of November. Free shipping for all the orders and a chance to win 1x GMS Titanium SL PVD studs is definitely worth giving it a try and place an order if you were thinking about it in the past days. We are also releasing a few new products and sharing a few insights of what are we up to, so all the customers and anyone who has sent an enquiry in he past is to expect an official e-mail from GMS on 26th of November. 🖤
On a side note, I just finished my first track day with a bunch of your mods. Other than being a tad rusty, and not having run this track direction in a few years, had a blast! I do wish I would have listened to you so long ago and switched to the 215/265 stagger. OMG, what a difference. SOO much more balanced, and not constantly overheating the back end that I have to feather the throttle in the corners to prevent the car from stepping out. Brakes are better, but I developed a pad vibration I have to track down...... I'll post in their respective posts when I get more time...
On a totally unrelated note... I have the stock ECU and I have noticed that about 20 minutes into my session (or so), I loose boost. I only get about 1/2 the boost I was at the beginning of a session. Have you see this before? I'll post a video later showing it... I'm in race mode, and have seen it in session 2 - 4 today...
The GMS BBK kit is new, and vibration developed later, if I understood correctly, it wasn't present at the beginning? If that's so than the installation is not a problem. Floating bobbin rotors like GMS's are pretty much impossible to warp due to temp, but it could be a problem in pad deposits. It should be resolved, otherwise it will get worse. How bad is it? What brake pads?
Regarding the ECU, it's hard to say if no error codes are showing up. The power drop is significant once the IAT (intake engine temp) gets high, but on stock ECU the engine power should be pretty stable. In my case I got a high pitched but not too noticable sound when my turbo to IC pipe dismanteled and blocked the turbo to IC piping and when I released the throttle it was gone. When I floored it again, sometimes it was OK, sometimes not, depending on how the floating part in it positioned. I could feel the power loss.
+1 on the pad deposits theory,@DrPyro2k .
Break in, especially on virgin rotors, is pretty key for track use. The last few pad that I’ve either used or looked into, recommend 200 to 300km of specific bed-in before the first braking on track. I thought that I was good this summer, but after changing pads (like for like, on rotors used only with those pads) I wound up with a vibration so bad that I had to resurface the rotors and repeat the bed-in. Worked fine after this, through the rest of the season.
found it... The vibration was a combo of about 3 things.. #1 there was some tire rubber build up on the rear pad grooves, so didn't fully disengage. #2 some pad build up that I didn't get doing the road bedding in and STUPID ME #3 ABS... The increased torque (stopping grip) with the new rotors meant that I needed to recalibrate my left foot to the proper pressure for braking. By the end of the weekend, I was smoking my previous lap times.