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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
for YOU, I will get rid of the 'jelly bean' BUT you have to sneak me back over the border! In the interim I will practice my "curl ups" so I can fit in the back of the 4C trunk loll
View attachment 116947
You have this subtle way you flex on here with tidbits of cars and garage space. :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
For those who don't like the DIY gamble, rusty and flexy OEM control arms and want to save some installation time and costs I suggest a plug and play solution: ALFA ROMEO - 4C - Performance rear arms | GMS

View attachment 116934

P.S.: This car has 14.000 km and I couldn't believe the amount of rust on OEM rear control arms. Owner claims it was never driven in winter, but I believe it was driven on salted roads and then put in to hibernation. The worst you can do to your car. Never hibernate your car once the roads get salted unless you thoroughly clean the underbody.

View attachment 116933

P.S.: Don't forget the alignment after any steering component change. We recently changed coilovers on client's car and alignment (toe) was a mess even though it was a perfectly setup before.
Straightforward with the upsell. Proper salesmanship!
 

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@RYUK we need a real lift... No?
Naaaa. Just need a jack. It's a lower control arm. I've replaced coil overs , hubs, rotors, etc on multiple cars in my driveway.

Lift the 4C by the jacking point in front of the rear tire and we should be good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
I'm considering that an invite to the Garage de Ryuk. Wonder what will arrive first, the spacers or the unis. lol
 

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Phil,
You asked about our experience – quite a lot of those.
1. Stock tires are junk. Better rubber does wonders.
2. I’m not sure than OEM tires width is adequate. I myself immediately moved to +2 size and never looked back.
3. Stock alignment is horrible – wrong caster, weird toe, too little cambers – all of these bring many handling problems - stability issues, steering feel issues, undesteer, snap oversteer – it has it all.
The fix is easy by putting front blocks and doing proper alignment.
I personally had to add quite a few camber shims at front to get close to 2 degr camber which indeed reduced undesteer a lot and made tire wear acceptable.
4. Rear arms bushings – we all know it, GMS stuff is a great fix for that.
5. Non LE and non “sport suspension” cars don’t have rear sway bar which is IMO is oversight and makes the car even more understeery.
Your car is LE so you’re in a better situation but the general situation with springrates, sway bar rates and shocks tuning IMO is very wrong – so as a super basic step stiffer sways is a no brainer.

After I’ve done all of the above the car was transformed – much faster in turns and fast sweepers – sure more grip but more important progressive and predictable handling. The front/rear balance also became much more reasonable.

Coilovers with stiffer springs are also a good thing – no need for something super crazy stiff – it’s all about better ride and more sharpness, predictability and confidence.

Anyway, the car feels very different from heavier cars – it’s super light and easily can be scary and lacking in confidence.
My thinking is to improve from there it just needs a good aero.

But what you describe from my experience with 4C and all my other cars and ~20 suspension setups – I would definitely do tires, a really good alignment and rear GMS bushings.
Those are just must haves.

P.S I have interesting observations from my post 4C cars (yes, plural) and what those says about the 4C - but I feel it’s more appropriate to discuss those in a separate thread and not to risk hijacking this one.

Greetings from the Holyland,
Gennady
 

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Phil,
You asked about our experience – quite a lot of those.
1. Stock tires are junk. Better rubber does wonders.
2. I’m not sure than OEM tires width is adequate. I myself immediately moved to +2 size and never looked back.
3. Stock alignment is horrible – wrong caster, weird toe, too little cambers – all of these bring many handling problems - stability issues, steering feel issues, undesteer, snap oversteer – it has it all.
The fix is easy by putting front blocks and doing proper alignment.
I personally had to add quite a few camber shims at front to get close to 2 degr camber which indeed reduced undesteer a lot and made tire wear acceptable.
4. Rear arms bushings – we all know it, GMS stuff is a great fix for that.
5. Non LE and non “sport suspension” cars don’t have rear sway bar which is IMO is oversight and makes the car even more understeery.
Your car is LE so you’re in a better situation but the general situation with springrates, sway bar rates and shocks tuning IMO is very wrong – so as a super basic step stiffer sways is a no brainer.

After I’ve done all of the above the car was transformed – much faster in turns and fast sweepers – sure more grip but more important progressive and predictable handling. The front/rear balance also became much more reasonable.

Coilovers with stiffer springs are also a good thing – no need for something super crazy stiff – it’s all about better ride and more sharpness, predictability and confidence.

Anyway, the car feels very different from heavier cars – it’s super light and easily can be scary and lacking in confidence.
My thinking is to improve from there it just needs a good aero.

But what you describe from my experience with 4C and all my other cars and ~20 suspension setups – I would definitely do tires, a really good alignment and rear GMS bushings.
Those are just must haves.

P.S I have interesting observations from my post 4C cars (yes, plural) and what those says about the 4C - but I feel it’s more appropriate to discuss those in a separate thread and not to risk hijacking this one.

Greetings from the Holyland,
Gennady
I agree with almost everything except to say better rubber simply hides the issues until you're further up the speed range. How to deal with it, you've explained precisely the direction in which I'm going.
As for tyres, has anyone got hold of the new Bridgestone Potenza Sports? Maybe my new road tyre of choice if they are true to their word and import 'em in our oem sizes. Not yet released in Oz.
Philster has bought better tyres yet has felt the instability in the rear, hence this thread.
 

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Phil,
You asked about our experience – quite a lot of those.
1. Stock tires are junk. Better rubber does wonders.
2. I’m not sure than OEM tires width is adequate. I myself immediately moved to +2 size and never looked back.
3. Stock alignment is horrible – wrong caster, weird toe, too little cambers – all of these bring many handling problems - stability issues, steering feel issues, undesteer, snap oversteer – it has it all.
The fix is easy by putting front blocks and doing proper alignment.
I personally had to add quite a few camber shims at front to get close to 2 degr camber which indeed reduced undesteer a lot and made tire wear acceptable.
4. Rear arms bushings – we all know it, GMS stuff is a great fix for that.
5. Non LE and non “sport suspension” cars don’t have rear sway bar which is IMO is oversight and makes the car even more understeery.
Your car is LE so you’re in a better situation but the general situation with springrates, sway bar rates and shocks tuning IMO is very wrong – so as a super basic step stiffer sways is a no brainer.

After I’ve done all of the above the car was transformed – much faster in turns and fast sweepers – sure more grip but more important progressive and predictable handling. The front/rear balance also became much more reasonable.

Coilovers with stiffer springs are also a good thing – no need for something super crazy stiff – it’s all about better ride and more sharpness, predictability and confidence.

Anyway, the car feels very different from heavier cars – it’s super light and easily can be scary and lacking in confidence.
My thinking is to improve from there it just needs a good aero.

But what you describe from my experience with 4C and all my other cars and ~20 suspension setups – I would definitely do tires, a really good alignment and rear GMS bushings.
Those are just must haves.

P.S I have interesting observations from my post 4C cars (yes, plural) and what those says about the 4C - but I feel it’s more appropriate to discuss those in a separate thread and not to risk hijacking this one.

Greetings from the Holyland,
Gennady
I agree with almost everything except to say better rubber simply hides the issues until you're further up the speed range. How to deal with it, you've explained precisely the direction in which I'm going.
As for tyres, has anyone got hold of the new Bridgestone Potenza Sports? Maybe my new road tyre of choice if they are true to their word and import 'em in our oem sizes. Not yet released in Oz.
Philster has bought better tyres yet has felt the instability in the rear, hence this thread.
Also the lack of rear swaybar on the non-race suspension is only true for the very early (mfg date pre early 2015) cars, too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
Any decent tire is going to hold on long enough to expose the suspension issues discussed. Gripper tires should expose it more, not less.
 

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Any decent tire is going to hold on long enough to expose the suspension issues discussed. Gripper tires should expose it more, not less.
But some are more reassured with grippier tyres rather than scared shirtless by less grippier ones. Now with the uniball/Pirelli combo it’s playful rather than ring-clenching and much, much better with the R-S4 Hankooks.
 

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We are having a real drought season in England, no rain for ages to wash the roads and so it's difficult keeping the car hibernating well into April and May, you read about how bad it is for the car to be hibernating for 5-6 months so it's a real toss up between driving out or not, I have been out a few times recently to get the car going again and the roads are bone dry. Hoping I am doing the best to compromise, damned if we drive damned if we don't!! And our mental health is hit when you keep going in your garage to dream about getting the 4C out !
 

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My late 2016 car doesn't have a rear swaybar
Interesting.
My mid 2016 does.
And I recall someone giving an exact date when the change was supposed to have happened.
These are 1mm smaller than the "track" suspension, BTW.
 
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