Congrats!! I don't have definitive answers but I have my answers that have worked out so far:

1) Drive the car for a while first before you decide what to fix. I didn't feel any need to fix anything more than different tires and a basic alignment but I don't drive much above 80 mph. Some people even actually prefer the original alignment and tires.

2) My car has a basic Costco flooded lead acid battery. No electrical problems since putting it in. Battery is mounted very high so there's always a benefit to a fancier lighter battery but that's a weight benefit not an electrical benefit.

3) I use Costco 91. If your car is tuned maybe needs something fancier but a good quality 91 is fine. I'm personally more concerned about making sure the gas station is Top Tier certified and for that Costco is easy and cheap.

4) OEM filter. Alfaworks sells an aftermarket one with the correct bypass pressure which I am going to try though. Not all filters are good because this car is spec'ed with a high filter bypass pressure.

Motul 8100 xcess gen 2 is what has been in my car last few oil changes. Also pretty much all the other 4Cs that go to the same shop mine does. Based on oil analysis it seems this car is more prone to fuel dilution and/or shearing than some cars though, so I'm considering switching to Redline or another brand on the more viscous end of 5w40.

Stateside the premix coolant to use is Mopar 68163849AB. It's practically as cheap as a generic coolant so no reason not to go OEM. Or the equivalent Mopar concentrate but of course use DI water.

5) I use nothing except being careful. Anything you add makes the nose effectively lower and more likely to scrape.

7) I would also love a Lexan roof...

 

@Papa-Mike ,

1. Drive it first to see how she handles on a favourite back-road. Then you can decide. I’ve never found I needed suspension blocks. Just zero the front toe or reduce it from 2mm (standard oem spec.) to 1mm toe-out. The front is VERY sensitive to alterations. You might also think about increasing negative camber to reduce understeer. You need shims for this.

2. I’ve gone to an AGM but there’s really no need. I think an AGM will be harder on the charging circuit if the comparison between my old battery (that lasted 8 year) and the current battery while on the charger is any indication. I also leave my battery on the charger for several hours before any drive so it’s in peak condition. I haven’t gone LiPO as it’s one less potential incendiary device in the car that I need to be thinking about.

3. Fuel…That’s a US thing. Ours has many more impurities than yours BUT it doesn’t contain ethanol.
our 98Ron is equivalent to your 93. I don’t like ethanol contamination.

3. I use AMSOIL European Formula C3 5W40. Been using it for 5 years. A lovely oil. I have an oil thread on the forum though didn’t get my oil tested this year. (Changed the oil after getting back from Japan and couldn’t be bothered to wait for the test sample container to arrive). The oil appears to be doing its job very well, given the lack of metal particulates in the old oil as shown in the oil test data. Oil and filter is changed annually regardless of limited km/miles.

Oil filter? Mann Filter W6014…Made in Germany. It is the oem specified one and has a pressure relief valve. The filter must be doing its job. Check my oil analysis data to confirm. It’s not opinion/speculation.
Coolant: Any coolant of the same spec as the oem Paraflu is OK. I still use Paraflu in the 4C but Penrite in my Giulietta and 147.
I also use NEO Keep Cool. I add 20mL every 4months to condition the coolant. Probably snake oil BUT my Sud is only on its second radiator in 50 years and my 147 is still on its original radiator since new in Jan 2002. I'm sticking with it.

4. Nose scrapes? can’t really help. I left it too late. When the nose gets a paint next year I’m going to use some adhesive rubber strips I’ve used for my Giulietta….Can’t think of the product name at present (Edit: SLIPLO. Thanks, Matthew.). The vinyl I initially used wore through.

5. ECU?…Alfaworks Stage 1. .It provides extra mid-range shove that is instantly noticeable. Fuel economy does not suffer. Great for those rapid overtakes.

That’ll do.

Enjoy your 4C.

Edit: If you find the rear end is feels nervous and numb, Rudi @GMS sells uniball bushes for the rear arms. I found these to be the best mod by far for really developing confidence with car at speed. Rudi has since produced rear arms incorporating the bushes. Buy these. I would have had they been available. I will in the not too distant future.

 

…regarding protecting the nose from scrapes…

https://www.4c-forums.com/posts/1142806/

 

Scrape Armor. Have it on both my toys. Saved me $ numerous times so I think it paid me back.

Scrape Armor Bumper Protection - Alfa Romeo 4C Coupe / Spider 2015+

Front bumper scrape protection for your Alfa Romeo 4C. Win the battle with parking curbs, speed bumps and steep driveways. Prevent expensive damage.

www.scrapearmor.com

 

+1 on Scrape Armor. The kit is a bit expensive but it's very complete, well thought out and a great fit.

 

SLiPLO works for me. A cheaper and better option if you don’t want to screw your bumper (literally and figuratively)

SLiPLO Universal Bumper Guard Scrape Skid Plate Protector Kit

One size fits all bumper scrape guard protection kit designed to protect virtually any car from steep driveways, parking curbs, potholes and speed bump damages.

sliplo.shop

 

SLiPLO works for me. A cheaper and better option if you don’t want to screw your bumper.

SLiPLO Universal Bumper Guard Scrape Skid Plate Protector Kit

One size fits all bumper scrape guard protection kit designed to protect virtually any car from steep driveways, parking curbs, potholes and speed bump damages.

sliplo.shop

Thanks for jogging my memory, Matthew. That’s what I’ve used for my Giulietta. Some will go on the nose of Rosie next year once she gets a touch-up (so to speak).

 

I just gave it a quick read and I can share some thoughts because I bought this car “blind”

If your battery is original, replace it, you can even go for Antigravity one right off the bat and enjoy performance and weight savings.

if you start experiencing electrical gremlins the majority are solved by simply getting a new battery. Keep in mind that at this point these cars are 10 years old almost, so original battery is just a ticking bomb.

This car takes getting used to driving at speeds. No big deal until 100ish. At higher speeds like 120-130+ it shows that it wasn’t built to be going that fast because it’s so light. You can improve this with tires, lowering the car (scary because it’s pretty low stock lol) or add g Aero - splitter, rear wing etc

overall it’s an amazing machine, I love mine, best purchase I’ve made

as far as maintenance, I haven’t grown the. balls to try jack this thing up at home because I’m afraid of damaging the tub, so mine gets serviced at a shop

for gas, I’ve always used 91 or 93. Tank is small and doesn’t take a lot to fill up. My car is tuned and has all supporting mods and it doesn’t have fact gas mileage unless I start driving I. Race mode acting silly.

also it’s possible to get some serious weight savings and get the car even lighter

lastly I his car has been great and pretty reliable and easy to maintain, and drive

with that said, please please please drive this thing and enjoy it! Life is too short and not many people get this kind of opportunity!

final edit / as far as mods go, I will say @GMS , Rudi is the man, amazing service and products!

 

Great advice already in the thread. A note on the battery; some folks running an antigravity use one of the motorcycle versions in their cars with a 3D printed bracket. I haven’t done this but it seems like a wicked clever solution and now that I’ve got a printer I may well try it
down the line.

If you do get an antigravity don’t assume you don’t need a tender. Also register the thing when you get it so you don’t find out their warranty requires it be done within a window or it’s null. Otherwise you end up trying to recondition it and the super cool feature ends up being a nightmare because it keeps cutting off while trying to charge it and you have to reconnect it every 10 seconds until it gets the minimum charge. Don’t ask how I know

I’d also second the recommendation of the GMS control arms.