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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi all,
So my coilovers arrived (Novitec Black).

In preparation for installation, I've got a few noob questions:

1. Without the coilovers installed on the car I can twist the shaft by rotating the top mount and holding the bottom mount still with my hands. The whole spring etc rotates around with it, presumably due to tension/friction in the spring. I assume the shaft is supposed to be able to freely move like this and the shaft can rotate around in the bottom freely? i.e there's no thread inside there that can unscrew itself if I turned it too many times? I know it's threaded under the top hat as I've seen the 'coilover failure' thread but I'm talking about at the bottom. edit: I just noticed that this is only possible when the springs have the mildest of tension on them, when I preload the springs I can no longer rotate the top and bottom separately.

2. When doing the above, the smoothness varies a bit between the individual shocks (one of the rears rotates super smoothly like it's greased up and the other is a bit... 'grindy') I assume that's not a problem and it's just manufacturing tolerances? Obviously once installed they (hopefully) won't be rotating at all so doesn't really matter except for height adjustment but just wondering..

3. The bump stop seems to be adjustable in height by twisting it so I assume there's a threaded bolt or something underneath the dust cover. What height should I adjust this bump stop to once the height of the coilovers is adjusted? Should I tighten it so it's fully down at it's lowest position (maximum suspension travel) or am I supposed to leave an inch or so above by loosening it?

That's all my questions for now but might have some more once I actually start installing!

Cheers
 

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Hey I just these same ones this weekend onto my slider. The shaft will spin, that is ok. Not sure why some feel different. I didn’t notice that but I did it spin them all either. I did notice that while making a ride height adjustment on one of the fronts is was harder to spin the nut at a certain point. I actually backed off when it felt so tight.
My rears didnt align properly when installing. Curious if yours will.
I didn’t see the threaded bump stop. Wonder if that one was threaded too high. Did you see that in manual or just discover it?

anyway, good luck. When you planning to install?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hey I just these same ones this weekend onto my slider. The shaft will spin, that is ok. Not sure why some feel different. I didn’t notice that but I did it spin them all either. I did notice that while making a ride height adjustment on one of the fronts is was harder to spin the nut at a certain point. I actually backed off when it felt so tight.
My rears didnt align properly when installing. Curious if yours will.
I didn’t see the threaded bump stop. Wonder if that one was threaded too high. Did you see that in manual or just discover it?

anyway, good luck. When you planning to install?
That's interesting - what didn't align? I've seen a couple of people with issues getting things to align recently with KW/Novitec coilovers so I'm curious if I have the same problem but I hurt my back badly yesterday just before these shocks arrived (great timing!) so I'm not going to try installing until by strength/mobility is back.

I realised I was being stupid about the shaft, it couldn't be secured into the bottom otherwise it wouldn't be able to move up and down!

I just discovered the bump stop thing when I was playing around with them, trying to understand them a bit when they arrived. If you put your fingers through the spring and turn the bump stop it'll go up and down depending on which direction you twist, so that you can adjust its position. It's not mentioned in the manual provided.

Another thing I noticed, which may be the reason why you had issue with the height adjustment was that in 2 out of 4 of my shocks, the grub/set screw was incorrectly inserted. In both of those it was coming in at an angle and too tight for me to turn using the little knob thing and my fingers (the manual warns that you need to be careful with torqueing that to only 1-2 Nm so I knew it was wrong). Whoever put these together at the factory obviously didn't give a s**t and just forced them in any old way. I had to use a small hex bit screwdriver to fully remove it and then re-insert it so that it was perfectly perpendicular to the shock, and only now can I tighten/untighten it with my fingers using that knob. Luckily the threads weren't destroyed when the person forced it.
 

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That's interesting - what didn't align? I've seen a couple of people with issues getting things to align recently with KW/Novitec coilovers so I'm curious if I have the same problem but I hurt my back badly yesterday just before these shocks arrived (great timing!) so I'm not going to try installing until by strength/mobility is back.

I realised I was being stupid about the shaft, it couldn't be secured into the bottom otherwise it wouldn't be able to move up and down!

I just discovered the bump stop thing when I was playing around with them, trying to understand them a bit when they arrived. If you put your fingers through the spring and turn the bump stop it'll go up and down depending on which direction you twist, so that you can adjust its position. It's not mentioned in the manual provided.

Another thing I noticed, which may be the reason why you had issue with the height adjustment was that in 2 out of 4 of my shocks, the grub/set screw was incorrectly inserted. In both of those it was coming in at an angle and too tight for me to turn using the little knob thing and my fingers (the manual warns that you need to be careful with torqueing that to only 1-2 Nm so I knew it was wrong). Whoever put these together at the factory obviously didn't give a s**t and just forced them in any old way. I had to use a small hex bit screwdriver to fully remove it and then re-insert it so that it was perfectly perpendicular to the shock, and only now can I tighten/untighten it with my fingers using that knob. Luckily the threads weren't destroyed when the person forced it.
My previous job (10 years ago) was working for Monroe absorbers Sint Truiden (the plant were the Mclaren absorbers were developed). I worked on the Focus RS line. When we had 3 absorbers on 100 faulty delivered Ford said bey bey....There must be a quality chef to control everything with Novitec/KW suspension???? The Mclaren devision was a plant on its own in the Monroe plant (building) with more than one quality chef!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Ok so I just looked at the bump stops again and it's not threaded, it just happened to move up and down when I twisting it like it was by coincidence... anyway, it just slides up and down with some force, so I guess it's not adjustable because even if you put it slightly higher, the first time it gets hit it would just get forced back down again.

This is all part of the learning/discovery process for me... :p
 

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The rear horizontal mount did not line up to the bolt holes on the top of the rear wheel hub. See the pics..

I tried and tried to get it to line up by install the various mounting holes at different order. Only way to make it line up was to pull the rear caliper and rotor and use a C clamp to pull them to alignment. Was a bitch.

I emailed Andre at Squadra about it yesterday, but I haven’t had a response. That is a bit disappointing. I’m giving him the benefit of the doubt here since is is typically so helpful. Will let you know what he says.

A27978C2-1ABC-4D73-9D15-7CCCCB1C06DD.jpeg
 

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I SO wish I’d bought Nitron at this point. My techs are now waiting for a third set of rears because the replacements are still way out.

These issues were unforeseeable and if not for them I would not regret anything but I’m at the point where I’d rather have my second choice if my first choice is just undeliverable for the maker. Not impressed at all with a reputable German manufacturer. I expect far better.
 

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So, the Novitec ones are all misaligned? These are reworked KW's. Wonder if the KW's also have this problem? In Belgium one of the few brands (KW) who give a GOCA paper for our car's. (Goca=like TUV). Hopefully it's not Novitec who messes the KW's up?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Floro is using KW v2 so it's both. I fitted the fronts no problems last night, only issue was getting the old rusty bolts out in a tight space working with the car just jacked up, so took a couple of hours. I'll be attempting the rears at some point so will probably encounter the same issue.

Did you guys try jacking up the hub (or pulling it down) whilst trying to align the holes? I found I needed to pull the hub down a touch to get one bolt in at the fronts, I feel like maybe that's all that's needed to get everything lined up in the above pic.
 

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Moving the hub up or down helped to partially align, but nowhere near enough. I had my car on lift and used a screw jack under the hub to raise it slowly to force alignment. Didn’t work. The ONLY way was to clamp it and squeeze together. At least in my scenario. Once I clamped though it was alright. Just don’t like HAVING to clamp something like that to aligned. Seemed to tight for my taste. The car does exhibit some positive camber when full dropped so I’m sure that has something to do with it. Still though, if you fit the factory shocks they go right on without a problem. So..
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It's weird because a lot of people worldwide have KW/Novitec shocks installed and this issue seems to have just appeared recently. I highly doubt KW made a change in the machining of these years after the 4C came out so I wonder why this is occuring..
 

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Ok, i’m going to ask probably stupid questions and make stupid assumptions trying to recollect my install from memory so please forgive me. Upon install, you will need to manipulate wheel hub to install coilover and align bolt holes. When wheel is unloaded on a jackstand or lift, you typically have to use another floorjack to elevate wheelhub to get bolt holes to line up as the coilover spring is compressed on a loaded wheel. Have you tried using floorjack to elevate wheelhub? Did you disengage the swaybar endlinks before installing coi

I tried to find pictures of my Novitec/KW coilover install from January 2016. Without having a side by side comparison of these Novitec/KW coilovers to mine, its hard to say if KW altered the bolt holes. But have you tried to compare the Novitec/KW and the OEM shock to see if wheelhub mounting platform and bolt holes are in same positions and alignment?

i wouldnt see a reason why KW would alter the bolt holes for the rear coilover after 5 years?

mine from January 2016
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I'm hoping I'll get a chance to try and install the rears later tonight and see for myself. I'll put a jackstand under the rear so I have my floor jack free to use on the hub. Will keep you all posted.
 

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And for the good of the group on these specific coilovers and how to adjust rebound....

 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Anyway, guys I have another issue - the tie rod ball joint.

On the other side, I cannot loosen it because when I turn the nut, the whole shaft just spins with it.

On the side above, I managed to loosen the nut, but now when I go to tighten it, it starts spinning the shaft before my torque wrench clicks.

Are my ball joints f**ked? Anyone got a way of sorting these issues?

edit: quick googling tells me this is a very common problem which makes me feel a lot better. Apparently I have to find a way to load the ball joint a bit when I tighten/loosen as wheel off the ground = no load = spinning
 

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Anyway, guys I have another issue - the tie rod ball joint.

On the other side, I cannot loosen it because when I turn the nut, the whole shaft just spins with it.

On the side above, I managed to loosen the nut, but now when I go to tighten it, it starts spinning the shaft before my torque wrench clicks.

Are my ball joints f**ked? Anyone got a way of sorting these issues?

edit: quick googling tells me this is a very common problem which makes me feel a lot better. Apparently I have to find a way to load the ball joint a bit when I tighten/loosen as wheel off the ground = no load = spinning
This?
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yeh, that's the same issue but I don't have a bar like that, and I read somewhere else that just doing it with the wheel on the ground (might have to put a jackstand on the opposite side and then slide underneath) would also work and that sounds like a better method to me. Just wondering if anyone knows of any better solutions?

 
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