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Yeh, that's the same issue but I don't have a bar like that, and I read somewhere else that just doing it with the wheel on the ground (might have to put a jackstand on the opposite side and then slide underneath) would also work and that sounds like a better method to me. Just wondering if anyone knows of any better solutions?
c clamp?

 

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Discussion Starter · #22 · (Edited)
I don't have one of those either actually, but looks like a better method than the crowbar so if wheel on the ground doesn't work then I may try that, thanks

Lots of other videos say to use a jack on the floor and load the joint, but in those the ball joint is on the underside pointing up. Ours are pointing down.
 

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The rear horizontal mount did not line up to the bolt holes on the top of the rear wheel hub. See the pics..

I tried and tried to get it to line up by install the various mounting holes at different order. Only way to make it line up was to pull the rear caliper and rotor and use a C clamp to pull them to alignment. Was a bitch.

I emailed Andre at Squadra about it yesterday, but I haven’t had a response. That is a bit disappointing. I’m giving him the benefit of the doubt here since is is typically so helpful. Will let you know what he says.

View attachment 114645
Just for clarification, are you sure your putting the right coilover on the correct side of the car.
I ran into that problem once lol
 

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Just for clarification, are you sure your putting the right coilover on the correct side of the car.
I ran into that problem once lol
i wanted to ask that but i assumed poster had coilovers on right side. 😉

Love Eric the Car Guy on youtube.... i actually learned a lot from him!

you’re right.... our tie rod is oriented so that you cant load tie with floor jack to pin it from spinning. Keep us updated how you managed to torque down tie rod castle nut.

i’m glad the bolt holes lined up. I vaguely remember that i struggled to manipulate the wheel hub in all directions to get bolt holes to line up as well.
 
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In reply, the issue my techs had was that the rear coilovers didn’t fit. The mounting points, plates and holes were in wrong positions according to their own technical drawings and dimensions which my guys checked against, multiple times very accurately sharing pictures with KW guys I. Germany.
KW agreed and got to work on a replacement set urgently.

They arrived with the techs Friday and the replacements are not much better with several dimensions still way off requiring force/stress to install.
The techs I’m using are top of the line. Guys who worked there have gone on to formula one. They work on nothing but high end performance and sports cars and say this is wrong/sub standard.
Im hoping tomorrow to have more news. Really missing my 4C.
 

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Glad yours went on so well. I couldn’t get them to line up just jacking up the hub. Clamping was only way. Interesting that it is only a recent issue. I also can’t believe they would change the specs.

Floro- Did your techs give specifics as to what wasn’t lining up? The only issue I had was just the flat plate with two holes. Or it could be that the lower hole was off and that messed up the orientation. Who knows..

Andre @ Squadra got back to me and assured me it is fine as long as you were able to make it line up and bolt up and to keep his email for evidence. He did suggest waiting to tighten all bolts once the car is on the ground or on a 4 post lift with weight. Not sure how you could get to all of the bolts to tighten/torque though. I have mine set up next week for an alignment and set up and maybe they can double check it.
 

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The main thing is the distance between upper and lower mounting points is too short but all the other dimensions are also off when measured and compared to the drawings from KW. It’s not just holes being a few mm left or right of where they should be, the plate is welded on tube in wrong place etc. KW are paying my techs from here so pressure is on them now as they aren’t cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
To be honest mine looked like both of your pictures until I banged the brake disc a couple of times with my hand (but not stupidly hard that I felt I was over forcing anything).

I didn't feel in any way like I was forcing something enough to be causing any issues with unwanted stresses etc though. These things are built to withstand pretty large forces and stresses from the car's own weight or when driving on track etc - a few hits with my hand isn't going to compare much with that.

I torqued all the bolts up with the car in the air, I don't see how I could've done it with the wheel on the ground, especially the 2 that go into the plate.
 

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Floro is using KW v2 so it's both. I fitted the fronts no problems last night, only issue was getting the old rusty bolts out in a tight space working with the car just jacked up, so took a couple of hours. I'll be attempting the rears at some point so will probably encounter the same issue.

Did you guys try jacking up the hub (or pulling it down) whilst trying to align the holes? I found I needed to pull the hub down a touch to get one bolt in at the fronts, I feel like maybe that's all that's needed to get everything lined up in the above pic.
I actually thought the same thing.You will find that by moving the geometry around they will fit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I'll try the nearside rear later today and going to pick up a clamp to hopefully sort the toe in joints out, so will update whether I have any troubles with the other side
 

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Did any of you check the dimensions on your rear coilovers? Comparing to the drawings? If you did, were they accurate?
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
I didn't measure mine sorry.

I got the other side rear in tonight, it was a bit more difficult to get it to line up this time but I kept trying, trying, jacking the hub at different angles and places etc until I finally got it together. Pretty chuffed with myself. For the ball joints I bought a G clamp but it didn't work tbh, so I had to use a crow bar (actually I used my breaker bar) and do that method, which worked.

A couple more noob questions now:

1. Which way raises the car and which way lowers it? Shorter spring = higher car, longer spring = lower car, or? I don't have the springs very preloaded and the car is sitting way higher than stock? Is there anything else in the install or adjustment which influences height? Surely it isn't going to settle THAT much

2. WTF are 'clicks'? I thought the rebound adjustment would 'click' as you turn it, but it doesn't? I went fully open to fully closed and it was more like 14 "swipes" of the little allen key thing, it's supposed to be 16??
 

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You’re right.
shorter spring, higher bottom perch height = higher stance
Longer spring, lower bottom perch height = lower stance

its hard to gauge your eventual ride height if the spring is unloaded.

When setting my initial ride height, [email protected] Sportiva recommended starting out at 5 visible threads + 20mm from the start of the threads to bottom of the perch. This will get you pretty close to stock height.
I did try significantly lower but it was too low... it looked great! But I had to be extra careful on curbs and speedbumps. 😬
So, I raised it closer to stock height with a little bit of a drop. I just checked right now and have about 10 full visible threads on the rear coilover.
One other factor to consider that your coilover will settle after your first drive to just recheck your ride height again after it.

you’re right, it’s not a solid discernible click per se when adjusting rebound, its more of a clunk like an old school TV channel selector knob. 🙂
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
OK, I haven't been for a drive yet so perhaps it'll settle in more after that.

I don't seem to get any clunk either? it just smoothly turns round and the only way I can judge it is by what I'm calling a 'swipe' i.e. inserting the allen key into a hole on the, say, the leftmost point and going to the rightmost point when it hits the metal before needing to take it out and move it to the next hole.
 

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Lawrence mine were like that also. I just assumed the click was when the little metal wrench thing clanked against the side of the shock. Take out and repeat. Maybe there were better instructions in German.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
So my opinion of the KW/Novitec fitment issues after installing them is that they're just made to a very tight fit, which one could interpret in two ways; either they're made extremely precisely and therefore you need to get the hub in to just the right position or the other interpretation which is that they don't need to be that tight since you're bolting everything down to high torque and therefore the holes are too small/everything's in slightly the wrong places. Personally I think it's the former and the actual variations are more car to car than coilover to coilover, and the difficulty from side to side of installing mine showed that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
One other thing to note for anyone else installing these is that the handbrake cables are hard AF to remove from their clips. This was actually one of the most difficult parts of the install for me. The cable is very rigid and thick and it's kind of weaved into the clips, so really hard to twist it enough to pull it out, especially if you're doing the install on your own.
 

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So my opinion of the KW/Novitec fitment issues after installing them is that they're just made to a very tight fit, which one could interpret in two ways; either they're made extremely precisely and therefore you need to get the hub in to just the right position or the other interpretation which is that they don't need to be that tight since you're bolting everything down to high torque and therefore the holes are too small/everything's in slightly the wrong places. Personally I think it's the former and the actual variations are more car to car than coilover to coilover, and the difficulty from side to side of installing mine showed that.
OR, they are way out of design spec. Mine were. You only know by measuring them and comparing with the drawing KW provide as we did. Every dimension is off on ours. The replacements they sent also. Waiting for third set. Measure yours. Don’t use them if they are out of spec. They need to be correct.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
As I said, yes it was a very tight fit but clearly manageable, and if I can force them into position using my bare hands I'm not really concerned. I wouldn't be at all surprised if it's the same with every other brand too. That plate welded to the coilover is pretty thick metal, it doesn't flex much, so the fit needs to be tight in order for it to be sufficiently close to the hub for the two bolts. If it was easy to slot in and out, there would be a gap that the bolts would need to close up when torqueing, which would then put MORE stress onto the plate/welds.

The fit is so close that I made sure I scraped off any corrosion on the hub surface because it would prevent the plate and hub sliding passed each other and getting into position. Something to try if you didn't already FLORO.
 
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