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Since this is back on the rails I have a question that I think all the DIYers will have when this is ready.

Has anyone replaced their coolant reservoir and bled the system successfully themselves?

From what I have read there are like 6 or so places you can bleed the system at and some require body panel removal.
 

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Yes, I've flushed the system before (when I did my clutch change last month). The DIY section on this forum, which has the various Alfa dealer how-tos, shows how to do this. There are several bleed valves, including two under the front hood. Though, the articles are a little incorrect in that they show the same bleed valve from two different angles, claiming it's two valves.
 

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Yes, I've flushed the system before (when I did my clutch change last month). The DIY section on this forum, which has the various Alfa dealer how-tos, shows how to do this. There are several bleed valves, including two under the front hood. Though, the articles are a little incorrect in that they show the same bleed valve from two different angles, claiming it's two valves.
I don't think I was clear what I was looking for in my original question.

Which bleeder location(s) were used to successfully bleed the system of all the ones listed in the how-to? Did you have to remove any body panels?
 

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I don't think I was clear what I was looking for in my original question.

Which bleeder location(s) were used to successfully bleed the system of all the ones listed in the how-to? Did you have to remove any body panels?
All of them. In the order described. I had to remove the hood (not a difficult task once you’ve done it - takes me about 5 minutes). The others are accessible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #131 ·
Gentleman.... I must sincerely apologize for not following through with this project. I had to completely shelf this project due to spending 12 hours a day beating the crap out of vendors that don't deliver sh*t on time or on budget for the past 6 months. I simply had no energy left after family responsibilities to beat up yet another vendor that has been unresponsive. If someone would like to take over this project, then please give them a call and beat them up....
 
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Gentleman.... I must sincerely apologize for not following through with this project. I had to completely shelf this project due to spending 12 hours a day beating the crap out of vendors that don't deliver sh*t on time or on budget for the past 6 months. I simply had no energy left after family responsibilities to beat up yet another vendor that has been unresponsive. If someone would like to take over this project, then please give them a call and beat them up....
I gave them a ring and they said they would need to start over on the project and are not taking new projects.
 

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Discussion Starter · #133 ·
I'm not surprised.... they have basically ghosted me for the past 6 months when I did have time to email. Which is why I got tried of knocking on their door when I have million dollar projects at work that I can't keep on schedule/budget and the business is screaming for them to be completed ASAP.
 

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Hi Guys

So Chris from pro alloy is back an started to check the oem coolant tank. this is his answer and his toughts:

Hi Raffael, actually I picked this up last week and started having a look at what we could do for these. Couple of questions to start with, and let’s see how we can move this forward:

Original cap – do you think people will want to re-use this, if so we will need to machine specific billet necks to accept the OE cap. The alternative is we use a twist type bayonet cap but it may not look quite right in these engine bays.
I think we would re-use the original cap, right?

Black plastic cover – I’ve had a look online at various 4c engine bays, and it seems not many of them use the plastic trim cover that is present on this tank. Is the preferred option to make the trim redundant, so the tank is all alloy with a choice of finishes?
I don't know the benefits of this black plastic trim and would go for a all alloy tank in satin black finish. what do you think? another option would be satin silver finish but i think that doesn't look good in the engine bay area

Tank shape – would the intention to be to copy the profile of the tank so it is visibly correct to the standard item? It doesn’t look like there is much space spare around it, so it would be risky to change it dramatically!
the best would be if we go for the OE tank shape. i will check tomorrow if there is any space left that we can use and if it's possible to add some more space.

any additions?

Cheers Raffael
 

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My preference is to look super industrial like most Pro Alloy tanks and be alloy with the welds visible...industrial and purpose specific, angular...just my preference :) It won't really matter in the end what the aesthetics are, it's a somewhat ugly engine bay I am just interested from a performance perspective Pro Alloy makes amazing stuff that is race quality

Hi Guys

So Chris from pro alloy is back an started to check the oem coolant tank. this is his answer and his toughts:

Hi Raffael, actually I picked this up last week and started having a look at what we could do for these. Couple of questions to start with, and let’s see how we can move this forward:

Original cap – do you think people will want to re-use this, if so we will need to machine specific billet necks to accept the OE cap. The alternative is we use a twist type bayonet cap but it may not look quite right in these engine bays.
I think we would re-use the original cap, right?

Black plastic cover – I’ve had a look online at various 4c engine bays, and it seems not many of them use the plastic trim cover that is present on this tank. Is the preferred option to make the trim redundant, so the tank is all alloy with a choice of finishes?
I don't know the benefits of this black plastic trim and would go for a all alloy tank in satin black finish. what do you think? another option would be satin silver finish but i think that doesn't look good in the engine bay area

Tank shape – would the intention to be to copy the profile of the tank so it is visibly correct to the standard item? It doesn’t look like there is much space spare around it, so it would be risky to change it dramatically!
the best would be if we go for the OE tank shape. i will check tomorrow if there is any space left that we can use and if it's possible to add some more space.

any additions?

Cheers Raffael
 

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It won't really matter in the end what the aesthetics are, it's a somewhat ugly engine bay I am just interested from a performance perspective Pro Alloy makes amazing stuff that is race quality
I’m with Kazkioken: aesthetics don’t matter to me. Only reliability for this part. The cap doesn’t matter either to me so long as it is functional and blows off at the right pressure.
 
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