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Did my 1st DIY oil change

574 views 22 replies 10 participants last post by  Uaglio  
#1 ·
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Wow what a big mess. I usually let performance shop change my oil but decide to do this myself. This way I can take a good look underneath the car.

Does anyone know the part number for the 14 Torx screws for the under tray?
 
#2 ·
Good work!

Re catching some drips & spills. These are handy to place under the work area.

Also highly recommend installing a Stahlbus drain valve - really reduces the mess a lot - and super convenient!

I still have not mastered getting the filter off without a bit of mess though... 🤷‍♂️ I've been placing a small plastic bag around it as I loosen and remove, but still get some spillage - unavoidable it seems.
 
#4 ·
@KarlB (and @SeaLawyer @4C ALFA @wrh3 from another thread)
...Glad you posted this as I was going to ask some questions about the Stahlbus oil drain valve.

This 4C Forum says get the M18x1.5x12mm (SB-210411-S-NA), but when I put my vehicle into the Stahlbus Vehicle Application site it says that the M22x1.5x12mm (SB-210611-S-NA) is the correct fit for a 2013-2020 Alfa Romeo 4C. I presume the M18 works since you all have installed it, however, I'm concerned with the manufacturer's differing recommendation.

Also, I read some reviews (for other vehicles) that the Stahlbus drain valve leaks after installation. Have you had any issues? I presume not if you all are recommending it.
 
#3 ·
Try getting one of those flexible form-a-funnel things. I use it to divert the dripping oil. I see you have a good catch pan, but the bigger the better. Restaurant busboy table clearing bins are the best. That dedicated drain valve probably works well but have not tried it. I guess another advantage of it is you don’t have to keep replacing the relatively hard to find drain plug crush washer with the rubber inside edge. Also not a fan of backing onto those plastic ramps. I’ve seen occasions where they’ve slipped past the rear drive wheels and then you’re screwed. I lift mine with jacks on the dedicated lift points.
 
#10 ·
I’m dreading spinning the nutserts those things screw into the next time I take the engine splash panel off. Some of them were already stating to get stubborn last time I did it. Tedious as it might be, might need to put a tiny dash of anti seize on them.
 
#23 ·
I wouldn’t skip the filter. Not the end of the world but a little like washing your feet and putting your dirty socks back on. Oil changes aren’t difficult apart from the quirks and cautions of getting this low clearance carbon fiber car elevated. Even then, you don’t need to really get far under the engine. The filter is right there and it’s the spin-on metal can style. I’ve always found these easier to remove and replace than cartridge style paper filters where you risk breaking or over torquing the plastic filter housing or that require some weird 35mm stubby socket to remove.