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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
All,

I have finished replacing the clutches in my car, and there were a lot of points that didn't have clear direction, so I went ahead and made a rudimentary instruction manual. For anyone who is considering doing this job, I'll tell you it isn't for the casual weekend DIYer. There are a LOT of steps, and several steps where you can damage things if you don't do them right. That said, if you have access to a lift and both mechanical and some computer know-how, along with a buddy who can help and a couple weekends available, then read on.

I'll start by saying that I had to do this not once, but twice. It was brutal. I had a leak coming out of my transaxle input shaft, which caused my odd gear clutch to slip. I took everything apart, replaced the input shaft seal and clutch pack, and then after putting it all back together, it immediately started leaking again, ruining my brand new clutch. The leak was caused by a bad inner bearing inside the input shaft. Since I didn't replace that, I had the issue all over again. See my video here for the symptoms of a bad bearing: Alfa Romeo 4C Bad Input Shaft Bearing

Special thanks to my friends Bill and Jeff for all their help in this long journey, and also to @Alfa9 Supply @jamiealfa for supplying the parts and advice when I got stuck!

In addition to my DIY, you'll also want to have the 4C service database available at your fingertips (The 4C Cloud - Table of Contents) at the very least, though I actually recommend buying the official TechAuthority manual USB stick (Buy Mopar Approved Service Information). This is from Alfa corporate and all the hotlinks work, making it much much easier to navigate for a challenging procedure like this one. You'll also need to have the AlfaOBD software up and running to do the calibration procedure before starting your engine.

Here's the link to the DIY:
ClutchReplacement.pdf
 

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2016 Alfa Romeo 4C Spider
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I take it you did this yourself a couple months ago? If so, anything you can add that I missed?
I would say that you got all of the important stuff. We didn’t have any issues that wasn’t on the list/ is an easy fix. Thank you for putting this together to help anyone doing their own DIY clutch replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Year and mileage of your car? Nicely done.
Mine's a 2015 with around 24k miles.

I think I understand the failure mechanism at this point.
About a month before the clutch started slipping, I heard and felt a violent CHONK go through the engine and then heard something pinging around, so I shut the engine off. Then, as someone turned it on for me while I looked underneath to see what was making the noise, something flew past my face about the size of a small rock, and the noise ceased and the engine ran normally. I was worried, but figured a rock had gotten caught up in the brake rotor and then kicked into the engine bay and flung by the belt.

However, as I said, a month later my clutch started slipping. There are two M6 Allen socket screws that hold the shroud plate against the engine block while you mate the bell housing. After taking everything apart, including taking the flywheel off the crank, I found that one of these bolts was missing altogether and the other, while still in place, was backed out and its head was sheared off. Only thing I can think of is that the AR assembly crew must not have torqued them down enough or forgot to install Loctite or something, so they backed out with vibration until the flywheel weights caught them (see pics). That shock must've been what damaged the inner bearing of the input shaft. I'd never had the engine out before, so I know it must've been a factory defect. I attached shots of the flywheel w/damaged weights (that's the side of the flywheel that faces the engine block), the sheared bolt head (and you can see the other one missing), and lastly in the transaxle housing you can see all the metal shavings from the bolt being chewed up as it bounced around in there before escaping out the vent hole.

A real bummer.

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