Thanks for the post and pics. Please report back on the effectiveness of your system and any problems you may experience once you’ve put some miles on it. Looks good.Here is what I did to install two oil catch cans in my 2016 spider for ALMOST under $100 USD.
Parts list:
Qty Part Description Cost Each Total 2 Speedwow Oil Catch Can (Amazon) Micron Bronze Baffled Filter w/hose kit 43.96 87.92 1 M6x1.00 - 40mm bolt Stainless 1.45 1.45 1 M6x1.00 - 25mm bolt (with thin head) Stainless 1.15 1.15 1 M6x1.00 - 25mm bolt Factory bolt from bracket 0 0 1 M6 washer Stainless 0.27 0.27 1 M6 Lock nut Stainless 0.81 0.81 1 1' 1/2" hose 1.99 1.99 1 1/2 x 3/8 Nylon Barb 1.49 1.49 4 #06 Hose Clamps 1.39 5.56 Sub Total: 100.64 tax: 10.06 Total: 110.70
Remove engine cover
Remove factory clamps from the PCV
Remove factory clamp from the intake manifold valve
Remove factory clamp from the larger of the two hard lines that run to the turbo/exhaust manifold
Familiarize yourself with the OCCs and the hardware/brackets/hoses that came with each one.
Using the two brackets that came with the OCCs (one each) fabricate a 'L' shape (see photo), tape them together and drill holes one both side of the L joint. Use bit large enough for the M6 bolts. Remove tape. Use a short M6 bolt and nut (not one list, as I had one already) to fasten the brackets together.
You may want to trim some of the bracket so it will fit against the factory bracket. It's a bit too long.
Affix the small black brackets that came with the cans to the side of the new L bracket using the supplied hardware. Only one bolt will work, as this L bracket was designed to be installed vertically. Shouldn't be a problem, but if you're concerned you could add some blue loc-tite.
Drill new holes in the L bracket along the side that will be placed against the factory bracket. To locate the holes, I marked the top of the factory bracket at the center line of each hole and then marked the L bracket (see photo)
The factory bracket is already set with threaded inserts! The insert directions are indicated by the color coordinated arrows.
Remove the M6x1.00 - 25mm bolt from RED fastener location, the bracket that holds the body bracket to the factory aluminum bracket. We will use that at the GREEN fastener location.
Use the M6x1.00 - 40mm bolt to replace the factory one from the RED fastener location we just took out. Thread it all the way through and tighten, this should leave about 1/2" or so sticking out. Use the washer and M6 Lock nut to secure the L bracket to the newly placed bolt.
Use the M6x1.00 - 25mm bolt (with thin head) to secure the L bracket in the BLUE fastener location.
Once that is all installed, then we can install the cans by using the little hex head bolts that came with the cans. This is not easy, but can be done.
For the hoses, check out the image with all the pretty circles and arrows. The arrows let you know the direction of flow and the matching colors are the ends of that hose.
To install the 3/8" hoses that came with the cans (I started with the PURPLE attachment locations) first attach one end onto the intake of one can, then measure twice, three times if needed, and cut to length.
Attach the other end onto the outlet point on the PCV per the PURPLE location.
Next I did the GREEN locations by attaching to the can outlet, measure and cut, to the intake manifold value. (the other GREEN attachment location)
Now on to the RED attachment locations, I cut a small length of 1/2" hose and attached it to the PCV outlet (RED). On the other end of the 1/2" hose, install the 1/2 x 3/8 Nylon Barb, attach the 3/8" hose to that barb, measure and cut to length and attach to the intake of the second can. (RED) You may want to use hose clamps on the barb connections, but since it was very hard to get the hose on the barb, I don't see any chance of it coming apart. (Unless there is more pressure than I realize??)
This leaves us with the YELLOW attachment hose. One end attaches to the outlet of the second can, and the other attaches to the end of the hard plastic line that runs to the exhaust manifold/turbo. The end of the plastic line is larger than the rest of it. The 3/8" hose will get on it, but it takes some effort and a bit of lubricate (of your choice).
As you install the hoses you will find the best way to route around/over/under the existing ones. I used a couple of zip ties to keep things in place.
The cans I got do not have drain plugs. But they do have dip sticks, and there is enough room to unscrew the cans and empty them (just barely).
Put the engine cover back on and go for a drive.
View attachment 110996 View attachment 110997 View attachment 110998
DIY Oil Catch Can Installation for Spider
Here is what I did to install two oil catch cans in my 2016 spider for ALMOST under $100 USD.
Parts list:
Remove engine cover
Remove factory clamps from the PCV
Remove factory clamp from the intake manifold valve
Remove factory clamp from the larger of the two hard lines that run to the turbo/exhaust manifold
Familiarize yourself with the OCCs and the hardware/brackets/hoses that came with each one.
Using the two brackets that came with the OCCs (one each) fabricate a 'L' shape (see photo), tape them together and drill holes one both side of the L joint. Use bit large enough for the M6 bolts. Remove tape. Use a short M6 bolt and nut (not one list, as I had one already) to fasten the brackets together.
You may want to trim some of the bracket so it will fit against the factory bracket. It's a bit too long.
Affix the small black brackets that came with the cans to the side of the new L bracket using the supplied hardware. Only one bolt will work, as this L bracket was designed to be installed vertically. Shouldn't be a problem, but if you're concerned you could add some blue loc-tite.
Drill new holes in the L bracket along the side that will be placed against the factory bracket. To locate the holes, I marked the top of the factory bracket at the center line of each hole and then marked the L bracket (see photo)
The factory bracket is already set with threaded inserts! The insert directions are indicated by the color coordinated arrows.
Remove the M6x1.00 - 25mm bolt from RED fastener location, the bracket that holds the body bracket to the factory aluminum bracket. We will use that at the GREEN fastener location.
Use the M6x1.00 - 40mm bolt to replace the factory one from the RED fastener location we just took out. Thread it all the way through and tighten, this should leave about 1/2" or so sticking out. Use the washer and M6 Lock nut to secure the L bracket to the newly placed bolt.
Use the M6x1.00 - 25mm bolt (with thin head) to secure the L bracket in the BLUE fastener location.
Once that is all installed, then we can install the cans by using the little hex head bolts that came with the cans. This is not easy, but can be done.
For the hoses, check out the image with all the pretty circles and arrows. The arrows let you know the direction of flow and the matching colors are the ends of that hose.
To install the 3/8" hoses that came with the cans (I started with the PURPLE attachment locations) first attach one end onto the intake of one can, then measure twice, three times if needed, and cut to length.
Attach the other end onto the outlet point on the PCV per the PURPLE location.
Next I did the GREEN locations by attaching to the can outlet, measure and cut, to the intake manifold value. (the other GREEN attachment location)
Now on to the RED attachment locations, I cut a small length of 1/2" hose and attached it to the PCV outlet (RED). On the other end of the 1/2" hose, install the 1/2 x 3/8 Nylon Barb, attach the 3/8" hose to that barb, measure and cut to length and attach to the intake of the second can. (RED) You may want to use hose clamps on the barb connections, but since it was very hard to get the hose on the barb, I don't see any chance of it coming apart. (Unless there is more pressure than I realize??)
This leaves us with the YELLOW attachment hose. One end attaches to the outlet of the second can, and the other attaches to the end of the hard plastic line that runs to the exhaust manifold/turbo. The end of the plastic line is larger than the rest of it. The 3/8" hose will get on it, but it takes some effort and a bit of lubricate (of your choice).
As you install the hoses you will find the best way to route around/over/under the existing ones. I used a couple of zip ties to keep things in place.
The cans I got do not have drain plugs. But they do have dip sticks, and there is enough room to unscrew the cans and empty them (just barely).
Put the engine cover back on and go for a drive.
![110996]()
![110997]()
![110998]()
Parts list:
| Qty | Part | Description | Cost Each | Total | ||
| 2 | Speedwow Oil Catch Can (Amazon) | Micron Bronze Baffled Filter w/hose kit | 43.96 | 87.92 | ||
| 1 | M6x1.00 - 40mm bolt | Stainless | 1.45 | 1.45 | ||
| 1 | M6x1.00 - 25mm bolt (with thin head) | Stainless | 1.15 | 1.15 | ||
| 1 | M6x1.00 - 25mm bolt | Factory bolt from bracket | 0 | 0 | ||
| 1 | M6 washer | Stainless | 0.27 | 0.27 | ||
| 1 | M6 Lock nut | Stainless | 0.81 | 0.81 | ||
| 1 | 1' 1/2" hose | 1.99 | 1.99 | |||
| 1 | 1/2 x 3/8 Nylon Barb | 1.49 | 1.49 | |||
| 4 | #06 Hose Clamps | 1.39 | 5.56 | |||
| Sub Total: | 100.64 | |||||
| tax: | 10.06 | |||||
| Total: | 110.70 |
Remove engine cover
Remove factory clamps from the PCV
Remove factory clamp from the intake manifold valve
Remove factory clamp from the larger of the two hard lines that run to the turbo/exhaust manifold
Familiarize yourself with the OCCs and the hardware/brackets/hoses that came with each one.
Using the two brackets that came with the OCCs (one each) fabricate a 'L' shape (see photo), tape them together and drill holes one both side of the L joint. Use bit large enough for the M6 bolts. Remove tape. Use a short M6 bolt and nut (not one list, as I had one already) to fasten the brackets together.
You may want to trim some of the bracket so it will fit against the factory bracket. It's a bit too long.
Affix the small black brackets that came with the cans to the side of the new L bracket using the supplied hardware. Only one bolt will work, as this L bracket was designed to be installed vertically. Shouldn't be a problem, but if you're concerned you could add some blue loc-tite.
Drill new holes in the L bracket along the side that will be placed against the factory bracket. To locate the holes, I marked the top of the factory bracket at the center line of each hole and then marked the L bracket (see photo)
The factory bracket is already set with threaded inserts! The insert directions are indicated by the color coordinated arrows.
Remove the M6x1.00 - 25mm bolt from RED fastener location, the bracket that holds the body bracket to the factory aluminum bracket. We will use that at the GREEN fastener location.
Use the M6x1.00 - 40mm bolt to replace the factory one from the RED fastener location we just took out. Thread it all the way through and tighten, this should leave about 1/2" or so sticking out. Use the washer and M6 Lock nut to secure the L bracket to the newly placed bolt.
Use the M6x1.00 - 25mm bolt (with thin head) to secure the L bracket in the BLUE fastener location.
Once that is all installed, then we can install the cans by using the little hex head bolts that came with the cans. This is not easy, but can be done.
For the hoses, check out the image with all the pretty circles and arrows. The arrows let you know the direction of flow and the matching colors are the ends of that hose.
To install the 3/8" hoses that came with the cans (I started with the PURPLE attachment locations) first attach one end onto the intake of one can, then measure twice, three times if needed, and cut to length.
Attach the other end onto the outlet point on the PCV per the PURPLE location.
Next I did the GREEN locations by attaching to the can outlet, measure and cut, to the intake manifold value. (the other GREEN attachment location)
Now on to the RED attachment locations, I cut a small length of 1/2" hose and attached it to the PCV outlet (RED). On the other end of the 1/2" hose, install the 1/2 x 3/8 Nylon Barb, attach the 3/8" hose to that barb, measure and cut to length and attach to the intake of the second can. (RED) You may want to use hose clamps on the barb connections, but since it was very hard to get the hose on the barb, I don't see any chance of it coming apart. (Unless there is more pressure than I realize??)
This leaves us with the YELLOW attachment hose. One end attaches to the outlet of the second can, and the other attaches to the end of the hard plastic line that runs to the exhaust manifold/turbo. The end of the plastic line is larger than the rest of it. The 3/8" hose will get on it, but it takes some effort and a bit of lubricate (of your choice).
As you install the hoses you will find the best way to route around/over/under the existing ones. I used a couple of zip ties to keep things in place.
The cans I got do not have drain plugs. But they do have dip sticks, and there is enough room to unscrew the cans and empty them (just barely).
Put the engine cover back on and go for a drive.
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Either way is fine, plenty of space to unscrew or install a drain port.
I have a Spider, so can't see engine when deck lid is closed. So the cover falls into the excess weight category and won't be going back on
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
