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Totally GIVING UP on the oil change reset indicator.

Alfie is 4 years old and only just hit the 20,000Km threshold for the first oil change. Of course, it’s been done (at dealerships) four times now. But the reminder just recently came up (a month ago, days after picking her up after the fourth dealership oil change). I must have tried the pedal dance 45 times since then, with minor variations based on comments earlier in this thread. Accelerator depressed before turning the key, after turning the key. Brake presses closer together or further apart. Taking the key out afterward or just shutting off then starting the car. I cannot clear it. What’s more, either the warning cannot be pre-emptively cleared, or the dealership didn’t try (four times), or they also failed to do it right (cannot tell until the warning is actually on, I suppose).

Having to take time off work to go back to the dealership just to have them reset a counter is a major pain in the backside.

Really curious if anyone else has experienced this, or if I’m really that uncoordinated?
IIRC, there are two oil life counters as shown in MultiscanEcu: one in ECM, and another in BCM. I had to clear them both for the reminder to go away.
 

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IIRC, there are two oil life counters as shown in MultiscanEcu: one in ECM, and another in BCM. I had to clear them both for the reminder to go away.
It was in the PCM. Dealer had a tough time clearing it. Took 2 scanners before they found it. In PCM, there is an option to clear PCM Memory. Under that, a pop-up with four options including "reset after oil change". Worked!
 

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I think you guys are talking about Multiecuscan.

Can "oil life counters" and "oil change reminder" be permanently disabled with this tool? If so, how?

Why should we have to go through this reset hassle over and over for something that is not even needed? At least, I don't need it.

I would buy Multiecuscan for this alone.
 

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Not sure the name of the tools involved.
He used two scanners: One was tablet-based and the other on a PC.
The PC one is what cracked it eventually. That one had a flow-chart like navigation system under several tabs, with pop-up sub menus for the different modules. Sorry that I didn't get more information.

He did mention that they have had varying amounts of difficulty in resetting this on various cars. Mine (Launch Edition, although the software should have been sufficiently patched by now for that not to matter) was by far the hardest.
 

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I think you guys are talking about Multiecuscan.

Can "oil life counters" and "oil change reminder" be permanently disabled with this tool? If so, how?

Why should we have to go through this reset hassle over and over for something that is not even needed? At least, I don't need it.

I would buy Multiecuscan for this alone.
Yeah... it's Multiecuscan.

I remember there is an entry about oil change "coupons". The description said that there would be no more reminders after all the coupons were used. As this is not an official tool, I don't know how accurate this is.
 

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First oil change last night. I think they have lars working at the factory in Italy tightening these things. I have never spent so much time and effort to remove an oil filter. I could only get one arm/hand up by the filter, the filter wrench kept popping off. Tried strap wrench, cap wrench and if would fit thought about a plumber wrench.

Used a measuring cup from kitchen (the evil one doesn't know) but just over 5qt came out. Added 5, will be able to start it soon and then check level via dipstick (didn't want to annoy neighbors by starting it at midnight).
 

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I have never spent so much time and effort to remove an oil filter. I could only get one arm/hand up by the filter, the filter wrench kept popping off. Tried strap wrench, cap wrench and if would fit thought about a plumber wrench.
Agree, this was the tightest filter I've encountered. I use this wrench with a breaker bar. It crushed the can slightly, but did not slip. Have to get at it with the pan off to get a long wrench on it.
 

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I've been meaning to do this for awhile, and just haven't had time.

I did this about a month ago, so I'm going somewhat from memory.

First off in regard to picking the car up, see my post in this thread (post #12 )

http://4c-forums.com/27-usa/8586-us-dealer-oil-change-costs-2.html

In regards to what oil to use, there is some good information in this thread. The "approved" oil in the US is Pennzoil Euro Formula 5w40 (full synthetic).



http://4c-forums.com/16-engine-technical/17537-any-oil-nuts-here.html

All the usual disclaimers apply with regard to safety when working under a car, lifting it correctly, etc. Our cars are not too easy to pick up by conventional methods available to the average weekend garage warrior. I have a fully equipped shop with a lift, and all the tools that comes with 30 some years of repairing all flavors of Alfa, Ferrari's, BMW's and Etceterini's professionally.

Ok, so once the car is in the air, you need to remove the large aluminum cover under the engine. It's held in with 14 T-30 bolts. Once the bolts are removed you slide towards the rear, drop the front and pull it forward. (I could have this backwards)

This panel is surprisingly heavy given how light our cars are.



Next you'll see the drain plug, on the bottom of the sump, 17mm I believe.



Loosen this, no need to remove it at this time as it is a hollow bolt with a hole in the side to allow the oil to drain in a controlled fashion. Still, thoughtfully it drains right on top of one of the frame rails.



After most of the oil has drained, remove the plug and let the rest drain, Inspect the drain plug gasket on the plug, if the neoprene seal on it looks ok, its probably safe to re-use it. There is some debate as to whether this type of drain plug gasket can be re-used. My opinion is it can at least a few times.

Install the drain plug and torque to 1.8 - 2.2 da-Nm (13-16 ft-lbs) as per the manual. Resist the urge to over-tighten this as it is a hollow plug.

You can reach up and grab the oil filter, I was able to loosen it without using a filter wrench. Its a little awkward to reach but not too bad.



Oil Filter gets torqued to 1.4 - 1.7 da-Nm (10-12 ft-lbs) with a thin film of clean oil on the gasket.

Clean all the excess oil that spilled on the frame rail and up around the oil filter.

Fill with 6 quarts of oil, start the engine briefly, make sure the oil light goes out, shut it off and check for leaks around the filter (doesn't happen often, but it does occasionally happen).

Re-install the cover under the engine. Be careful installing the bolts, some of them felt like they wanted to cross-thread. Oddly I was not able to find a torque spec for these. Typically the standard torque for a 6mm x 1.0 bolt is 10 Nm or 82 in-lbs. As long they are snug they should be fine as it is not a structural member.

Part number for the oil filter is: 0055256371 - 001 (or Mopar 68237532 - AA)





Part Number for the Drain plug Gasket is: 55196309 (Mopar 68098272 - AA)

I know it's weird that the parts seem to have both Alfa and mopar part numbers.

As of this time the only source(s) for the oil filter are your friendly dealer, or Centerline. Although it's a Mann filter, its not available through aftermarket channels as of yet.

Jeff
 

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I've been meaning to do this for awhile, and just haven't had time.

I did this about a month ago, so I'm going somewhat from memory.

First off in regard to picking the car up, see my post in this thread (post #12 )

http://4c-forums.com/27-usa/8586-us-dealer-oil-change-costs-2.html

In regards to what oil to use, there is some good information in this thread. The "approved" oil in the US is Pennzoil Euro Formula 5w40 (full synthetic).



http://4c-forums.com/16-engine-technical/17537-any-oil-nuts-here.html

All the usual disclaimers apply with regard to safety when working under a car, lifting it correctly, etc. Our cars are not too easy to pick up by conventional methods available to the average weekend garage warrior. I have a fully equipped shop with a lift, and all the tools that comes with 30 some years of repairing all flavors of Alfa, Ferrari's, BMW's and Etceterini's professionally.

Ok, so once the car is in the air, you need to remove the large aluminum cover under the engine. It's held in with 14 T-30 bolts. Once the bolts are removed you slide towards the rear, drop the front and pull it forward. (I could have this backwards)

This panel is surprisingly heavy given how light our cars are.



Next you'll see the drain plug, on the bottom of the sump, 17mm I believe.



Loosen this, no need to remove it at this time as it is a hollow bolt with a hole in the side to allow the oil to drain in a controlled fashion. Still, thoughtfully it drains right on top of one of the frame rails.



After most of the oil has drained, remove the plug and let the rest drain, Inspect the drain plug gasket on the plug, if the neoprene seal on it looks ok, its probably safe to re-use it. There is some debate as to whether this type of drain plug gasket can be re-used. My opinion is it can at least a few times.

Install the drain plug and torque to 1.8 - 2.2 da-Nm (13-16 ft-lbs) as per the manual. Resist the urge to over-tighten this as it is a hollow plug.

You can reach up and grab the oil filter, I was able to loosen it without using a filter wrench. Its a little awkward to reach but not too bad.



Oil Filter gets torqued to 1.4 - 1.7 da-Nm (10-12 ft-lbs) with a thin film of clean oil on the gasket.

Clean all the excess oil that spilled on the frame rail and up around the oil filter.

Fill with 6 quarts of oil, start the engine briefly, make sure the oil light goes out, shut it off and check for leaks around the filter (doesn't happen often, but it does occasionally happen).

Re-install the cover under the engine. Be careful installing the bolts, some of them felt like they wanted to cross-thread. Oddly I was not able to find a torque spec for these. Typically the standard torque for a 6mm x 1.0 bolt is 10 Nm or 82 in-lbs. As long they are snug they should be fine as it is not a structural member.

Part number for the oil filter is: 0055256371 - 001 (or Mopar 68237532 - AA)





Part Number for the Drain plug Gasket is: 55196309 (Mopar 68098272 - AA)

I know it's weird that the parts seem to have both Alfa and mopar part numbers.

As of this time the only source(s) for the oil filter are your friendly dealer, or Centerline. Although it's a Mann filter, its not available through aftermarket channels as of yet.

Jeff
 

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I purchased an Inokinetic 4C Lift Kit. To install it I removed the big pan under the engine, and the diffuser. While poking around under there I figured that I could do a oil change myself, but removing that big pan every time would be very inconvenient. Paying a local dealer $200 to $300 for an oil change just does not register with me. And Jiffy lube just might balk if asked them to do it.
On this forum or on U-Tube, I do not remember which, I saw pictures where they just removed the right rear wheel & could access the drain plug and filter without removing the big underpan. They made a custom alum funnel to drain the oil.
I put my car on a Quick Jack and removed the wheel to check this out. But instead of making an alum funnel, I went to AutoZone and got a Form-A-Funnel. I placed it under the oil drain, but on top of the big pan then formed it so it would catch the oil as it drained. Now it will just flow into any container placed under the back edge the pan. It is the right length at 14 1/2 in. long, so no oil will spill on top of the pan. This funnel is really meant to be used around oil filters, but a better use is on the 4C.
I am curious has any one gone to a Jiffy Lube or a similar place to have an oil change ?
If you want to check out one of these go to ; FORMAFUNNEL.COM
 

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If you want to check out one of these go to ; FORMAFUNNEL.COM
For the oil drain, even better is to replace the bolt with this: https://www.stahlbus-us.com/stahlbus-oil-drain-valve-m18x15x12mm-steel-set.html

I did buy a form-a-funnel for the oil filter but just couldn't get it to work well.

I figure while I have the pan off I can check out everything else, doesn't take long although I have thought about quarter turn fasteners like I had on the Lotus to make it even easier/faster.
 

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Just wanted to post that I found the OEM oil filter for $17.50 US at Rock Auto. Even with shipping it's still the best price. I ordered the Pennzoil 5w-40 through Amazon for $55.00 US (6 quarts).
 

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Mogul seem
Can we use motul 8100 Xcess 5 W40 oil in our 4Cs?
Motul seems to think so on its oil selection facility. I used 8100 X-Clean 5w40 in my old Giulietta, which means nothing except that I ran it for a couple of years without any issues with the Multiair system. Xcess is an A3/B4 rated oil and 5W40 is the correct viscosity so there’s no reason why it wouldn’t do the job. Euro versions require C3 rated for being easier on catalysts but this appears to be at a slight expense of engine protection if you examine the specs. I’m running Amsoil Euro Classic 5W40 in mine; A3, not C3 rated.
 

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Thanks for the clarification. I have been using Motul for a few years on my Porsche Carrera S and the Lotus with great experience. I have sent the oil samples to Blackstone labs and has come back with very high ratings for the oil.
 

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The pedal dance never worked for me, but I've finally cleared the "change engine oil" message after 4 years with the help of AlfaOBD :LOL:

 
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