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Thanks for sharing, I have been looking at this for a while and already have the OBDLink MX+. Even though website states no adapters required for MX/MX+ it later says adapters ARE required for additional module access to things like airbags, ABS, low speed CAN, etc.
 

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Thanks for sharing, I have been looking at this for a while and already have the OBDLink MX+. Even though website states no adapters required for MX/MX+ it later says adapters ARE required for additional module access to things like airbags, ABS, low speed CAN, etc.
For the 4C the "yellow" adapter is needed for the Airbag, BCM, Instrument Panel, Parking, and Tire Control modules. The ABS, Engine, and Gearbox don't need the adapter.

You could always make your own. I was going to do that at first, but the adapters are cheap enough for it not to be worth it really...
102421
 

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Alrighty...I asked Wix about this and, if I read their response correctly, they are removing the 51356/51356XP from 2015.


There is now a new WIX oil filter specific to the 4C, part number WL10365. I noticed this when ordering the Mopar/Mann filter on RockAuto. I did not bother with it, since it was actually more expensive than the Mopar.


It is also available at my local NAPA (supposedly in stock-- I wonder if they ever end up selling them) as a NAPA Gold (NAPA filters are rebranded WIX).


Considering that Mann+Hummel currently owns WIX, and this particular WIX is marked "Made in Germany" (odd for a WIX), I suspect this is the same Mann OE filter, but in a white canister. However, I did not feel like spending $30 (at NAPA) or ~$20+ with shipping just to cut one open and compare (a new Mopar/Mann would be helpful too). I recently bought an oil filter cutting tool, though, so I may change my mind, and the curiosity continues.

Edit: Here is the product spec page-- http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/PartDetails.aspx?Part=2193662 ; Note the bypass pressure is 36 psi (~2.5 bar).
 

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After my recent first DIY oil change, I used AlfaOBD along with an OBDLink MX I happened to already have. There was an "oil change" procedure in the ECU (Bosch Motronic MED17.3.3 CF6/EOBD CAN CF6/EOBD EP engine 1.8). I did not have an oil change warning, so I will see over time if performing this procedure did anything.

Additionally, my service distance remaining on the instrument cluster was getting somewhat low. Since I am apparently servicing my vehicle, and not the dealership now, I reset this as well. This was in Instrument Panel Marelli EP, requiring the yellow cable. There is a "Servicing information update" procedure. It states "This procedure is to be done every time coupon servicing has been performed." This reset the mileage remaining.

The previous dealership who did my oil changes never seemed to figure these out consistently, and would need the car back for another 30-60 minutes, after returning the car from an oil change, to reset the counter.

Edit: I see DanB has a video showing the usage and many of the cool features of AlfaOBD. There is a lot of fun to be had (and potential to screw up adaptations if you go crazy) with AlfaOBD. It did not specifically call out the service distance in the instrument cluster, so I am keeping this post up.
 
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Hi guys.
Did oil and filter change today. When removing the belly pan I noticed one of the torx bolts was missing but did not pay much attention. Once I drained oil and replaced filter and was going to get the pan back again I realized that the missing bolt was not actually missing; it had seized and had had its head chopped off (I guess during previous oil change). Then I tried to get the bolt remains out of the threaded insert but could not because the insert was rotating. Exactly the same thing that enziof was mentioning in the post below:

Loose nuts

I decided to change my oil and really appreciate Alfaguys ground breaking illustrated exposition on topic in this thread. As is noted the aluminium undercover must be removed to access the engine. The cover is held in place by torx bolts. Six of these bolts are secured using pressed aluminum nuts as shown in the picture. These work great until they don't. Two of the pressed nuts on my car were no longer fixed in place and rotated freely. This means that the bolt will not come out without a great deal of time and discussion.

Does anyone have a suggestion on a more reliable method of creating a captive nut on the aluminum pan? My thought is to epoxy the nuts to prevent them from rotating. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Was wondering what you guys think about not tightening back the bolts where the inserts are located (6 places) and just have the pan fixed with the remaining 8 bolts. I mean I am not sure I could sleep well thinking one of those is going to seize next time I try to remove the pan.
On the other hand, has any body replaced this torx bolts with hex head ones that can be used with a normal socket and wrench?

Thanks.
 

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Hi guys.
Did oil and filter change today. When removing the belly pan I noticed one of the torx bolts was missing but did not pay much attention. Once I drained oil and replaced filter and was going to get the pan back again I realized that the missing bolt was not actually missing; it had seized and had had its head chopped off (I guess during previous oil change). Then I tried to get the bolt remains out of the threaded insert but could not because the insert was rotating. Exactly the same thing that enziof was mentioning in the post below:


Was wondering what you guys think about not tightening back the bolts where the inserts are located (6 places) and just have the pan fixed with the remaining 8 bolts. I mean I am not sure I could sleep well thinking one of those is going to seize next time I try to remove the pan.
On the other hand, has any body replaced this torx bolts with hex head ones that can be used with a normal socket and wrench?

Thanks.
I suppose you could probably :( get by for awhile without using those six torx bolts. But if you consider that the engine pan is really just one big, thin, flexible, flat sheet of aluminum and if not secured properly you could have problems. Like it flexing or moving around causing squeaks & rattles. I would guess that Alfa's engineers wanted those bolts in place for a reason. And not just because they were littering the factory floor.

Could you not have those captive nuts spot welded in place to keep them from rotating? I have removed the engine pan a few times since I have had the car. And after reading about this problem on this forum. I have been very careful when I tighten the bolts. And have had no problems.

Thanks to advice on this forum from wrhs & Xcentric. I now use the Stahlbus Drain plug M18x1.5, so it is not necessary to remove the engine pan to do an oil & filter change. I liked it enough that I now have another one on my other car. No more mess ! :)

I use Pennzoil Platinum Euro Blend 5W40 Synthetic oil which, in the States, I can get from the local PEP BOYS store. Sometimes they run short of this oil, (they don't keep much in stock) but I can always have them order more, and they will have within 3 or 4 hours.

I did get my oil filter from Centerline. And I ordered a few extra ones on the same order. Will I now be guilty of "hoarding" 4C oil filters? :oops:
 

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I suppose you could probably :( get by for awhile without using those six torx bolts. But if you consider that the engine pan is really just one big, thin, flexible, flat sheet of aluminum and if not secured properly you could have problems. Like it flexing or moving around causing squeaks & rattles. I would guess that Alfa's engineers wanted those bolts in place for a reason. And not just because they were littering the factory floor.

Could you not have those captive nuts spot welded in place to keep them from rotating? I have removed the engine pan a few times since I have had the car. And after reading about this problem on this forum. I have been very careful when I tighten the bolts. And have had no problems.

Thanks to advice on this forum from wrhs & Xcentric. I now use the Stahlbus Drain plug M18x1.5, so it is not necessary to remove the engine pan to do an oil & filter change. I liked it enough that I now have another one on my other car. No more mess ! :)

I use Pennzoil Platinum Euro Blend 5W40 Synthetic oil which, in the States, I can get from the local PEP BOYS store. Sometimes they run short of this oil, (they don't keep much in stock) but I can always have them order more, and they will have within 3 or 4 hours.

I did get my oil filter from Centerline. And I ordered a few extra ones on the same order. Will I now be guilty of "hoarding" 4C oil filters? :oops:
That oil (factory recommendation) is also available through Amazon where I got mine.
 

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I just did my oil change and installed that special drain plug. I also used a scoop to divert the oil from the frame. I bought it online a while back.
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The Stahlbus drain plug comes with a fitting and plastic tube, to direct the flow of oil when draining. Why would you have to use that scoop and tube that you show in your post?
Also, why did you have to remove the engine tray. You can get at the drain plug and the oil filter simply by removing the right rear wheel. Are we talking about the same drain plug? If the plastic tube is not long enough? Why not go to any hardware store and get a longer tube? They sell the stuff by the foot.
Or, did you not yet have the new drain plug already installed when you did the pictured oil change?
 

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The Stahlbus drain plug comes with a fitting and plastic tube, to direct the flow of oil when draining. Why would you have to use that scoop and tube that you show in your post?
Also, why did you have to remove the engine tray. You can get at the drain plug and the oil filter simply by removing the right rear wheel. Are we talking about the same drain plug? If the plastic tube is not long enough? Why not go to any hardware store and get a longer tube? They sell the stuff by the foot.
Or, did you not yet have the new drain plug already installed when you did the pictured oil change?
I think he used the scoop for this initial oil change to keep the mess off the frame, and installed the special drain plug after emptying the old oil.
 

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I just did the peddle dance to clear my oil alert. It seems to have worked, but won't be able to really test till this Covid-19 thing is done...

2015 Coupe - Non-LE version
 

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Just did my first oil change with a Topsider today.

Maybe I didn't get all of it out because I added 5 qts and it hit the top of the dipstick after waiting a few mins post shutoff.

Also built an aluminum foil slide for the oil filter to minimize the mess -- About 6 fl oz of oil went down the slide. :LOL:

With the silly oil drain + filter placement, this is by far the worst DIY car I've owned. :whistle:





 

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Just did my first oil change with a Topsider today.

Maybe I didn't get all of it out because I added 5 qts and it hit the top of the dipstick after waiting a few mins post shutoff.
Thanks for your picture of the custom slide for your oil filter. I'll use this idea for my next oil change in a few days.
Concerning the oil capacity of the engine I observe each time the same thing : the real oil capacity seems to be 5,0 liter and not 5,8 as specified in the official Alfa documents. I don't know where the rest is hidden.
 

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Just did my first oil change with a Topsider today.

Maybe I didn't get all of it out because I added 5 qts and it hit the top of the dipstick after waiting a few mins post shutoff.

Also built an aluminum foil slide for the oil filter to minimize the mess -- About 6 fl oz of oil went down the slide. :LOL:

With the silly oil drain + filter placement, this is by far the worst DIY car I've owned. :whistle:




:p
 
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