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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Tools needed:
Pry tool
T25 Torx bit
tiny flathead screwdriver (or something similar)


Please realize that I had my engine cover removed and ECU removed for other reasons...you may or may not have to do this but probably not.




1. Peel off rubber weather stripping.



2. Pry trunk light out of slot and disconnect housing from harness (use little flathead or pick tool to depress retaining clip)
3. Remove/detach emergency trunk release cable handle
4. Pull up interior carpet and set to the side.
5. Locate 4 Torx head bolts on left and right side of trunk along black trim and remove




6. Remove 2 black trim pieces
7. Locate and pry off push pin type retaining clips (6 clips on the floor of trunk, 2 clips on the back side wall, 2 clips along each side of the bucket)




8. Locate 2 pieces of black Gorilla tape on the top left/right back edge of bucket and peel off bucket (this holds on the insulation metal brackets on the engine side of the back side of the trunk bucket) Tape = weight reduction...lol





9. Only thing left to do is to detach lift arm but remember that holds the heavy boot lid open (which would will need help or use the top of your head to hold boot lid open). Have a piece of PVC pipe or a 2x4 piece of wood to use to prop hood open if you are not going to re"arm" the lift arm after you remove the bucket.
10. The anchor retaining clip that holds the lift arm in the anchor does have a retaining piece in the center of the clip that you can use a pick tool or tiny flathead screwdriver to disengage. Once you lift up this center piece, the barbed lift arm will slide out of the anchor retaining clip. (I learned about this process the hard way, I swiveled the arm back and forth to pop out the anchor and then later finding out that there was an easier way...lol)



11. With hood propped open with your head (of with the assistance of a helper), carefully lift the trunk out straight up. You may have to jimmy it left side a little, then right side a little, then repeat.





Hope this helps.... :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
As you can see, there is not much space to the left and right of the bucket for more storage space unlike Lotus (I think). I thought about maybe doing a replacement trunk bucket in CF with potential extended storage space laterally. But Shawn said that this would be a big and expensive project for several reasons.... the amount of material, molding time and test fitting. Because the stock trunk bucket is that hardened carpet material, it does flex allowing for some additional tolerances for fitment. For rigid CF, the tolerances would be much tighter for a good tight and perfect fitment.


But, by removing the trunk, it will give more access to install rear view camera, resistors for license plate bulbs and even more space for me for coilover install. :)


 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Here are other pictures of the bucket...




 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That bucket could be used as a mold to make one mother of a subwoofer enclosure :)

I don't know if the lightweight boot lid glass would withstand the THUMP....THUMP...THUMP.... LOL...
 

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very helpful! I'm guessing I have to do this to access the Hall sensor for the bootlid?

Chris
 

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these tools are quite helpful for removing fasteners in cars. The various shapes work for different fasteners and are more gentle.
 

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Docron,

I was really glad to see your post on the trunk removal.

I was in the process last weekend of installing a rear view camera and was trying to get the trunk out. I had pulled all of the push pins out and was not getting any movement in the trunk bucket while trying to pull it out so I figured there must be something else holding it down and put the project on hold. After reading your post I went back today and removed everything again, but this time pulled harder on each end and finally got it to move. After getting it out, I found contact cement remains at four of the bottom posts and at one side post on each side. Where you were pulling off black Gorilla tape, I had the shiny aluminum tape one uses for sealing HVAC ducts. Makes me wonder if yours might have been pulled out before and replaced with the Gorilla tape?

Anyway, thanks for the post, saved my option for installing the camera above the license plate.
 

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Sorry to revive an old thread, but I’m installing my rear view camera today, and for the life of me, I cannot get the clip off from the trunk lift arm. Where exactly did you apply pressure? I tried using both a small flat head and a pick tool to squeeze into the seam, and I also tried pushing the clip from below, but no luck at all. Any pointers?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Sorry to revive an old thread, but I’m installing my rear view camera today, and for the life of me, I cannot get the clip off from the trunk lift arm. Where exactly did you apply pressure? I tried using both a small flat head and a pick tool to squeeze into the seam, and I also tried pushing the clip from below, but no luck at all. Any pointers?
You can try and squeeze the retaining clip with a needle nose pliers to disengage those lateral hooks. Then pull up.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Estimated weight on those components? Can you run the car without it connected? Detrimental effects?

Thanks haha
You probably could. Sorry i didnt weigh all the parts.
The only foreseeable challenge is how the boot lid will lie on the rubber weatherstripping without rattling without the support of the bucket rim if that makes sense.
 

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So it appears that at some point Alfa changed the design of the trunk. I have a 2018, and the trunk is moulded as a single piece (I.e there is no seam on the side). There are also none of the plastic retaining pins as shown in @Docron ’s tutorial, in fact, I almost tore up the carpet trying to look for them. The whole thing is attached to the car solely via torx bolts. Also, the moulding for the round black metal “hood stopper” is part of the trunk, whereas it looks like it’s separate in the earlier models (see picture below)

102362


This means that the trunk cannot be removed without removing the circled part. Does anyone know how to do this? I’ve already scratched up the bolt and damaged the “carpet” a little trying to use a flathead screwdriver as a lever to pop it out, and I haven’t been able to get it to turn and unscrew.

I’m also still having trouble with the retaining pin that keeps the trunk “arm” in place. Does it need to be squeezed from above or below? If using a small flat head, do you need to squeeze it into the gap and push inwards and up, or just use leverage to push straight up?

Unfortunately, until I can figure this part out, I’m unable to finish installing the Autovox X1 Pro rearview camera, so help is greatly appreciated!
 

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Started my joying installation with reverse camera. I followed the above to remove the trunk to access the license plate and reverse light wiring. Thanks to docron it was easy. Then I got to the dreaded lift arm bracket and could not open it with only one pick tool.

I then tried 2 really flat screw drivers on the pin. I placed one on each side in the seam between the pin and bracket. On the left I used the metal side for leverage. See picture above. I pulled both screw drivers up and the pin raised about 1/2 inch. I then pulled it up with needle nose pliers. It took about 15 minutes and much of that time was spent looking for really flat screw drivers.

I did not remove the entire bracket. I left it in place while I fished for the wires.
 
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