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355 Posts
I used a 5 minute epoxy glue for the grills. Look is totally stock. Still have not installed my new amp so no sound yet. I've got a lot of other projects going on.
Looks great! This is the new Focal 5.25” component speakers?Finished this up tonight.
The adapter rings mentioned earlier showed up today. Perfect fit to car and speakers (you have to clip out the inner ring to fit these speakers like I did to the one on the right):
View attachment 109128
Speaker in the adapter. Same angle and mounting holes as stock:
View attachment 109130
Tweater in place:
View attachment 109131
I used these drywall anchors to mount the adapter to the door in the origional holes (I made the holes slightly bigger to fit these). They mushroom behind the hole to fasten to the door. Also known as a "Jack Nut" or "Molly Bolt". Worked great:
View attachment 109132
I used some foam tape to seal the gap against the door, and needed to screw the speaker into the door. Just made a pilot hole, used some longer screws, and this worked great. The door panel fit perfectly over this with no modification. I didn't get a picture of it, but I just ran the speaker wire through an existing hole into the door to get behind the driver:
View attachment 109129
FYI, I also have the Alpine amp installed.
This was well worth the cost and effort. It sounds MUCH better than stock. I'm glad I did it...
It was the Focal ISU 130 kit.Looks great! This is the new Focal 5.25” component speakers?
It would be really tight, but it may be ok. I installed a set of Hertz speakers that are 57 mm deep.@flyt100 The ISU 130 has a depth of 48.9mm. Do you think the PS130FE with a depth of 60mm would fit as well? (1.93" vs 2.36").
It would be really tight, but it may be ok. I installed a set of Hertz speakers that are 57 mm deep.
Great! Thanks, guys.I assume you are using the angled speaker adapters? I'm guessing you'll be fine in that case, but you'd have to try. You are trying to avoid this part of the window mechanism:
View attachment 109966
As a comparison, if you placed the 130 directly in the hole (I'm not recommending that, just for sake of argument), the lower side of the magnet just touched the upper side of this spring. WIth the offset and angle of the adapter, it wasn't near it at all. It all depends on the depth and diamater of the magnet.
you have to drillI'm attempting to do this speaker swap on a '17 coupe, but can't figure out how to remove the stock speaker. Is there a special tool to remove these fasteners?
Edit: Nevermind, I drilled them out.
Take the Focal cover off of the tweeter and install just the speaker into the door panel like shown in post 42 above.Ive just bought the focal 130s and before I start dismantling does anyone know how to install the tweeter? This is what came in the box:
View attachment 114500
Thanks and does the cable simply plug in or do I need to solder the wires?Take the Focal cover off of the tweeter and install just the speaker into the door panel like shown in post 42 above.
thanks I have and I bought those adapters which fit the main speaker, just not clear what the adapter is for the tweeter because the fittings on the end of the cable are much smaller than for the main speakerCheck out post 37 to see what I did in regards to cabling, etc...
thanks, that makes sense, I thought there had to be some solderingIt has been a while since I did it, so don't remeber all the details. The summary is that the tweeter connects to the crossover cable like this. I don't remeber if I connectorized the crossover cable or soldered it:
View attachment 114501
I made some short cables with connectors to connect to the mid:
View attachment 114502
Those were connected to the other end of the crossover cable and the connector that plugs into the car (I think I soldered + heat shrink tubing):
View attachment 114503
What size foam tape did you use? I presume closed cell / high density foam tape but interested to know what width to get.Finished this up tonight.
The adapter rings mentioned earlier showed up today. Perfect fit to car and speakers (you have to clip out the inner ring to fit these speakers like I did to the one on the right):
View attachment 111198
Speaker in the adapter. Same angle and mounting holes as stock:
View attachment 111199
Tweater in place:
View attachment 111200
I used these drywall anchors to mount the adapter to the door in the original holes (I made the holes slightly bigger to fit these). They mushroom behind the hole to fasten to the door. Also known as a "Jack Nut" or "Molly Bolt". Worked great:
View attachment 111201
I used some foam tape to seal the gap against the door, and needed to screw the speaker into the door. Just made a pilot hole, used some longer screws, and this worked great. The door panel fit perfectly over this with no modification. I didn't get a picture of it, but I just ran the speaker wire through an existing hole into the door to get behind the driver:
View attachment 111202
FYI, I also have the Alpine amp installed.
This was well worth the cost and effort. It sounds MUCH better than stock. I'm glad I did it...