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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
this has been a head scratcher...

Most everything I have read states that the oil capacity is 6.1 Quarts when also replacing the oil filter.

I drained the oil lifting the car up on all 4 wheels.. not a wheel ramp

Drained it till it completely stopped dripping.

Filled it with 6.1 quarts.. and was overfilled by 1 quart! (I know because I removed 1 quart and it oil level is in the middle range of XXXXX dip stick)

Only conclusion I can draw is that I did not drain everything.

What am I doing wrong?
 

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this has been a head scratcher...

Most everything I have read states that the oil capacity is 6.1 Quarts when also replacing the oil filter.

I drained the oil lifting the car up on all 4 wheels.. not a wheel ramp

Drained it till it completely stopped dripping.

Filled it with 6.1 quarts.. and was overfilled by 1 quart! (I know because I removed 1 quart and it oil level is in the middle range of XXXXX dip stick)

Only conclusion I can draw is that I did not drain everything.

What am I doing wrong?
You did nothing wrong.
I have 1 spare quart of oil which I have to store for my next fill because the manual specifically stated 6 quarts when the dipstick maxed out at 5... Unless someone else chimes in with a plausible explanation, one of us has to put out or pull out...

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Did you run the car before checking the dipstick?
I recall from another recent thread that some oil drains back into the pan when not running.
Not sure the source or accuracy of that information, but it would stand to reason that this could be the explanation.
It makes no sense to be that over-filled using the specs provided by Alfa.
 

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Here are some links on the topic:

This post by Hornetball says:
It's not a HG leak, it's a valve cover gasket leak. And, no, that would not be due to an overfill.

Other issue, you may never have been overfilled. Sometimes, checking oil level on our cars is a challenge (see http://4c-forums.com/16-engine-technical/39657-how-check-engine-oil.html). I frequently experience the same issue as OP in that thread, and I know exactly how many quarts my engine has been serviced with (6 quarts) as I do the oil change myself. The issue is actually not that uncommon for cars with large oil coolers that can drainback into the sump after shutdown. I've experienced the same thing with other track-prepared cars (the 4C is pretty much track-prepared from the factory).

Anyways, the 4C has proven itself to be extremely reliable to me . . . I expect that it will leave my ownership when bequeathed in a will.
I respect his opinion on the matter.

Also, This Thread talks about the same experience.
 

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Somewhat related I finally tried the engine hot method last night and the oil level looked correct for the first time. Measured 10 minutes after I shut down following a 45 minute ride. So after sitting for 24 hours I check it cold as I have done on every other car I have owned and it appears to be overfilled a quart or three depending on what the hash marks actually mean.
Generally the proper time to read the oil is after 5-10 min after shut down. Engine must be warm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I agree when driven and engine is warm.. after 15 mins it is smack on. Except, Alfa instructions are to measure when bone cold...

PS: After I removed the Quart of oil.. I did notice that the engine felt like it was running smoother.
 

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Did you run the car before checking the dipstick?
I recall from another recent thread that some oil drains back into the pan when not running.
Not sure the source or accuracy of that information, but it would stand to reason that this could be the explanation.
It makes no sense to be that over-filled using the specs provided by Alfa.
Agreed! Always best to run the engine for a short time before checking the level.

AlfaArnold
 

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You got me doubting myself folks so I checked again. About 100 miles since oil change and new filter, and with cold engine NOT warm (to make sure all the oil is settled at the lowest mark and not expanded all over)... 5 quarts still maxes out the dipstick mark.
May be Jamie or someone technically in the know can help point us where the problem is... Manual 'typo' or non-compliant dipsticks? Automotive tire Tire Red Wheel Alloy wheel


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I change my own oil as a dealer with $500 bucks for an oil change on this thing . I put six courts in it and I noticed that it was a little high on the dipstick. I haven't had any issues with it and after running it's still a little high on the dipstick even when the motors hot.
 

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Well, this is driving me a bit crazy.

The 4C has a large, highly-effective oil cooler (based upon my track experience in TX Summer heat). It is a water-oil heat exchanger that uses engine coolant as the cooling medium. It is located just above the oil filter (see #1 in the picture), well above sump level.


Due to its location, it is susceptible to draining back into the sump when the car sits. Most large oil coolers that I have fitted on race cars do this over time. This can make it a challenge to get a consistent oil-level reading if you just check it cold after the car sits.

My car has had 2 oil changes since the factory fill. The dealer did the first and I did the second. In both cases, the procedure followed was to service with 6 U.S. quarts (5.7 liters) of oil. On my car, this results in a REALLY high reading when checking cold after sitting and a slightly high reading when checking warm. This tells me that the oil cooler is probably draining into the sump.

Based upon Jamie's shop recommendation, I plan to do the following in the future:
1. Service with 5 U.S. quarts.
2. Run the engine to fill all oil galleys and the oil cooler.
3. Add oil as required to bring to "FULL" on the dipstick.

Wish me luck!
 

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Well, this is driving me a bit crazy.

The 4C has a large, highly-effective oil cooler (based upon my track experience in TX Summer heat). It is a water-oil heat exchanger that uses engine coolant as the cooling medium. It is located just above the oil filter (see #1 in the picture), well above sump level.


Due to its location, it is susceptible to draining back into the sump when the car sits. Most large oil coolers that I have fitted on race cars do this over time. This can make it a challenge to get a consistent oil-level reading if you just check it cold after the car sits.

My car has had 2 oil changes since the factory fill. The dealer did the first and I did the second. In both cases, the procedure followed was to service with 6 U.S. quarts (5.7 liters) of oil. On my car, this results in a REALLY high reading when checking cold after sitting and a slightly high reading when checking warm. This tells me that the oil cooler is probably draining into the sump.

Based upon Jamie's shop recommendation, I plan to do the following in the future:
1. Service with 5 U.S. quarts.
2. Run the engine to fill all oil galleys and the oil cooler.
3. Add oil as required to bring to "FULL" on the dipstick.

Wish me luck!
Fine... You guys win... I'll check it warm...

Sent from my F8332 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
relieved

Well, this is driving me a bit crazy.

The 4C has a large, highly-effective oil cooler (based upon my track experience in TX Summer heat). It is a water-oil heat exchanger that uses engine coolant as the cooling medium. It is located just above the oil filter (see #1 in the picture), well above sump level.


Due to its location, it is susceptible to draining back into the sump when the car sits. Most large oil coolers that I have fitted on race cars do this over time. This can make it a challenge to get a consistent oil-level reading if you just check it cold after the car sits.

My car has had 2 oil changes since the factory fill. The dealer did the first and I did the second. In both cases, the procedure followed was to service with 6 U.S. quarts (5.7 liters) of oil. On my car, this results in a REALLY high reading when checking cold after sitting and a slightly high reading when checking warm. This tells me that the oil cooler is probably draining into the sump.

Based upon Jamie's shop recommendation, I plan to do the following in the future:
1. Service with 5 U.S. quarts.
2. Run the engine to fill all oil galleys and the oil cooler.
3. Add oil as required to bring to "FULL" on the dipstick.

Wish me luck!
Thanks Hornetball for a thorough response.

I think I found the missing Quart. My bet is that when I drained the oil only 5 quarts came out (by putting six in I over filled it). I think the missing quart is still in the "oil galleys and the oil cooler"

I have made a note to myself that on my next oil check, I am going to measure what I drain. Not as a procedure to do always, but just to check on my hypothesis.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
DIY Oil Change - II

Well, this is driving me a bit crazy.

The 4C has a large, highly-effective oil cooler (based upon my track experience in TX Summer heat). It is a water-oil heat exchanger that uses engine coolant as the cooling medium. It is located just above the oil filter (see #1 in the picture), well above sump level.


Due to its location, it is susceptible to draining back into the sump when the car sits. Most large oil coolers that I have fitted on race cars do this over time. This can make it a challenge to get a consistent oil-level reading if you just check it cold after the car sits.

My car has had 2 oil changes since the factory fill. The dealer did the first and I did the second. In both cases, the procedure followed was to service with 6 U.S. quarts (5.7 liters) of oil. On my car, this results in a REALLY high reading when checking cold after sitting and a slightly high reading when checking warm. This tells me that the oil cooler is probably draining into the sump.

Based upon Jamie's shop recommendation, I plan to do the following in the future:
1. Service with 5 U.S. quarts.
2. Run the engine to fill all oil galleys and the oil cooler.
3. Add oil as required to bring to "FULL" on the dipstick.

Wish me luck!
Moderator - I vote that we move Hornetball's post to the DIY & Technical reference section with the subject "DIY Oil Change - Part II". It will save others a lot of headaches in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks everyone for all your responses. I have definitely lost a few nights of sleep on this trying to figure out the correct procedure. I feel a lot better now knowing that my car has the correct amount of oil in it. Great forum!!
 

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Moderator - I vote that we move Hornetball's post to the DIY & Technical reference section with the subject "DIY Oil Change - Part II". It will save others a lot of headaches in the future.
Good idea.
I've linked the entire thread, as there are some excellent points in this thread. And since there are still some discrepancies to iron out.

It can be found right under the Oil Change DIY link in the Technical Reference & DIY index.
 
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