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Yes, it should create some additional airflow to "suck" some of the engine heat out of the engine bay.
 
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imho a 'factory' change like this is usually something I would typically strive to keep/maintain.
If I go the route of the rear arms I would either modify the plate or go with the set which allows it to remain in its stock shape.
 

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Discussion Starter #103
My car doesn't have this side intake (if it's the one I assume you mean, on the outside of the car just behind the left side door, down low), so I wonder what is the function of my undertray dome. Maybe, it still enables air out from the engine comparment, perhaps by creating low pressure from outside air flow.
My car neither has side transmission intake nor the undertray dome, it has flat underbody. I believe that later type of undertrayes with domes were the same, whether the car had side transmission intakes or not.
 

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Just a quick update...

As I noted before, I needed to cut out some additional material from the deflector shield so the A-Arm won't hit it at full unloaded state. So I cut a little above the bend, to keep some extra rigidity. Now it won't catch/rub under full unloaded state. Note that I run Ohlin's suspension and the car is lowered, so your use case may differ.....

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I also saved the little tab that was riveted to the dome, and cut it out to re-rivet the deflector.
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Here is the relocated riveted tab... It is much sturdier, so I would HIGHLY recommend it.
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Now all of these items may be mute, if Gale or some other ingenious person comes up with a more robust/effective solution....
 

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@4C-ophe: Not really, as it is an exact copy of the aluminum one. So I would have to cut the CF instead of the AL.... I love Scara's work, but I think there are better (cost effective) weight savings parts to replace long before that pan
 
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Discussion Starter #109
I will design revised transmission air deflector (the part that has to be modified) that will fit older and newer type of undertray, as quite a few customers have decide to go with “race” version. The part is easy to construct and it is rivet-ed to the undertray, so no mods will be required. However, it will take some time as I want to primarily solve out all the customers waiting for “street” version of GMS performance rear arms.

I have the older type of undertray, without the air deflector and without side transmission cooling duct. I do extensively track the car without issues. If somehow the issues will arise, I will look into the matter, so you have full customer support from me.

Let's go to work... o_O
 

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Discussion Starter #110
Batch of GMS uniballs and ball joints assembled + final revision of GMS performance rear arms "sport" version is now finished. With CAD optimization, respositioning of reinforcement brackets, slightly changed angles and TIG welds, we have managed to increase rigidity for additional 11% so with CAD simulation this design is now "flex free" until 2.3G. I'm so glad we spend a few days optimizing the layout of the reinforcement brackets to get that extra gain in rigidity. Noticeable or not. Probably not, it just feels better.

"Race" version still provides the ultimate rigidity though, as the effective length of tubes is split in half by placing the reinforcement tube perpendicular, so far less flex happening or more precisely it is happening at higher G forces, but as we have learned it the hard way, it interferes with later types of undertrays so we expect majority of users to go with "sport" version and more track focused users with "race" version.

We begin TIG welding process later this week, until then, here is some sneak preview:

IMG_20201102_140137.jpg IMG_20201102_145731.jpg IMG_20201103_075601.jpg
 

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In preparation for the “Race” version rear arms, I’ve decided to keep my aluminium pan intact, and make a more suitable LIGHTER substitute.

The parts you need to remove for the arms leaves essentially a rectangle so I bought a rectangle of Titanium for £175 on eBay and I’ll just make holes as required and job done.

I am so excited to see how these arms work with the Wavetrack diff and other mods I’m doing right now.

I say clean/heat coloured finish FTW. That’s a unique selling point right there.
Can’t wait to feel oversteer happen gradually rather than it spring it on you. It’s fun and good for the heart but I’d prefer more progressive.
 

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In preparation for the “Race” version rear arms, I’ve decided to keep my aluminium pan intact, and make a more suitable LIGHTER substitute.

The parts you need to remove for the arms leaves essentially a rectangle so I bought a rectangle of Titanium for £175 on eBay and I’ll just make holes as required and job done.

I am so excited to see how these arms work with the Wavetrack diff and other mods I’m doing right now.

I say clean/heat coloured finish FTW. That’s a unique selling point right there.
Can’t wait to feel understeer happen gradually rather than it spring it on you. It’s fun and good for the heart but I’d prefer more progressive.
Forget the understeer, it’s the oversteer that becomes ever-so-more predictable and controllable with the uniballs and, I assume, the new arms.
 

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Yes I thought I said over not under :) just muddled my words.
For me the 4C has only ever understeered once, in the wet, dodging a huge puddle that was lurking halfway round a round about. If you can drive a 4C on British roads, you can drive it anywhere! Rain, snow, tarmac melting heatwaves and more holes then a sieve.
 
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