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Problems fitting uniballs due to variations in rear arm sleeve dimensions

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In case you are referring to, the front arm uniball failed. We have zero failures with our GMS uniball rear arms so far.
He also had a failed hub bearing on the rear. The front is where he busted the pin on the pressed in bearing. A failed (or failing) rear bearing can also cause a vibration (+ possible clunking) on weight transfer.

Other common reasons for "creaking" or noises from the back end
1) Swaybars: Some aftermarket sway bars are missing the cap to hold the rubber in place and may move causing a creaking noise (Sector111). The bolts holding the sway bars can also loosen with heavy track use (use Locktite)
2) Upper Strut Mounts: Some aftermarket struts remote reservoir tube can hit/rub the cars mounting bracket for the strut.
3) Lower Strut Mounts: The lower bolt on the struts that clamps the strut to upright have been known to loosen (again track use). If you lift the car, you can wiggle the tire. Not sure if it will clunk, but it will wiggle tires.
4) Lower A-arm uniballs loose: If you didn't measure the A-Arms hole prior to insertion and the hole was too large, then the uniballs can loosen and shift off center. They will eventually come in contact with the car's arm brackets and make a hell of a racket when hitting bumps and weight transfer.
5) Failed uniball: As Gale noted, none of the uniballs have failed once correctly installed (yet, but they will eventually). IF the shop who did the install didn't press in correctly, they may have damaged the uniball....
6) Ball joint: The ball joint can fail, and will cause creaking and noise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #402 ·
We try our best to offer only the highest quality parts and customer support, but sometimes customers try to fight us and it takes some time to truly get to the bottom of the issue. Most of the issues come from overrated shops and egocentric mechanics. here is just a section of communication between us and our customer. (y)

Customer: "Just as an FYI after two track weekends in Sept, I have a new creaking/poping sound coming from the rear suspension. It's not a constant noise, it happens mostly when shifting weight such as accelerating from a stop or hard cornering. I have had a couple different shops take a look, they even retorqued the chassis fastners and they can't find anything wrong, I'm not feeling any play through the steering wheel/handling of the car either. It seems to come from both sides and the only change to suspension hardware this season are the uniballs. Basically I don't think the increase in NVH is as negligible as described."

GMS: "I can assure you, that if the uniballs have no free play than the sound is not coming from there. Common issue is rear MacPherson shock strut to hub bolts getting loosened causing cracking noises. It happend to me quite a few times, requiring retorquing and loctiting. I strongly suggesting checking the possible issue there. These 3 bolts must be checked."

Customer: "That did the trick. Not only no more clunk but also less vibration in general. You're awesome! Thanks and have a good weekend!"

GMS: "I'm glad no blame on GMS for the second time in your case now. First with the uniball assembly and now with clunking noises. Anyway, I'm glad it is sorted out now. ?"

Customer: "I am glad too and sorry to jump the gun too soon both times. (The first time the shop tried to convince me it was your product at issue). I'm not a good/experienced mechanic and shops in the area aren't familiar with this car. The more I work on it myself the simpler if find this car to be, but shops seem too afraid to touch things when I bring it in for inspection. I'll have to keep learning and become more autonomous fixing the car myself. A lot of tuners make parts for cars that work on the street but aren't tested throroughly enough at the track. I admit I do worry too much each time I do a modification that it won't turn out as advertised/expected. Your product works and you know the fixes to small problems like this one because you have experience yourself tracking your own 4C. Again, I appreciate your patience and excellent support."

P.S.: We are running now the protoype (inferior) version of GMS uniballs for 3 years now, with mostly track and competition use, with zero issues so far. The force is strong! :eek:
 

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Sorry to hear some shops are quick to blame the product, Rudi. I’ve had mine in for 18 months and about 7,000km. The best thing I’d decided to have done to my 4C. For me, it really helps me to feel what the rear tyres are doing. The shop that fitted it (a race outfit that our AROCA chapter will soon be having a meeting at) had a little trouble due to the bush mounts being a little out of round but it was easily remedied. If I’d taken it to a place I was first thinking of taking it to I might not have had the success achieved. Glad I asked a few questions first.
 

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@4cBobby - Not long, as the A-Arms are not that hard to remove. You will have to realign the car afterwards, but I would estimate 4 or so hours for just the bushings.
 
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Just a suggestion....for those of you worrying about the correct sizing of the uniballs and less than competent mechanics.....do as I did. Bought the entire set of balls AND installed on a set of stock arms from GMS. That way i know they are done right and I also have a spare set of arms if I ever need to revert back to stock. You may find that the difference in cost is made up by not needing to pay a shop to install the balls in your car and possible extra charges if they need some reaming to size. And YES they make a difference in the feel of the car...much more planted and better telegraphing what the rear end of the car is doing under hard cornering instead of camber changing during cornering giving a feeling of lack of confidence. For just pure street driving it isn't worth it though...but tracking or auto cross....it is probably the FIRST thing I would do to the car other than a good alignment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #407 ·
Thank you for your feedback and also help with answers to other members. I'll have video of uniballs pressing done in a day or two to get better perception how it is done and what it takes. It's no biggie honestly, but as mentioned, not all the shops deserve the "motorsport" shop title, so careful who you choose.
 

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I appreciate that there are many 4C owners on here who track the cars and would maybe appreciate some mod to the rear suspension, but I'm an owner who, apart from having the Alfaworks front geometry mod, is very happy with the current rear suspension set up. I've been driven around a handling track by an ex F1 driver who had no problem driving the car around the track at amazing speeds so there can't much wrong with it. TBH, I was somewhat annoyed that someone who is promoting their own mod has posted on this forum that, basically, is insinuating that my car is [email protected] I'm also puzzled as to how a video can show how much better a car handles on track as a comparison with the original set up. From the subsequent posts there seems to be a lot of interest from tracking 4C owners which is fair enough and fully understandable, but don't tell me I will start to hate my 4C just because I don't fit this mod. I get all the enjoyment I need out of my car on the road. Just saying.:|

AlfaArnold
What level blocks did you install? What alignment specs were used? Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #412 · (Edited)
It is doable, I have such tool at home, yet I prefer a proper hydraulic press.

My experience tells me, that some of the customers are not so much into reading, especially GMS installation manual, so as promised, here is a short video guide of how to properly press in the uniballs. :D

P.S.: There were a lot of questions lately, how much the shop should charge for this. Well we have some experience with 4C I believe I can say so here is a job we had:

  • GMS Front camber and caster plates
  • Rear uniball conversion
  • Turbo to IC pipe
  • Moncoque to rear crashbox torque check
  • Precision alignment (1.5h)
All together it took 7h.

There are some of you where shops charge 6h+ for rear uniball and conversion. At this hour rate I would have not tolerate any issues. Uniballs pressing if done properly is a matter of minutes, but as already mentioned there are a lot of "motorsport" shops that seem that their ambitions superceed their skills, so careful with that.

Video:
 

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I like the sound of this. Is the benefit gained from less resistance and no binding in the suspension and therefore greater response? or more accurate geometry from no play in joints? thanks
Just jumping in, but from my point of view it’s no flex and much less geometry change making the car more predictable. I made a comment on another thread about being able to relax my ankle and foot. The uniballs helped immensely. Helped relax my anal sphincter too, though not excessively. THE best mod you can have done for enjoyment of your 4C bar none. You can feel the grip through the seat of your pants that I couldn’t with the rubber bushes. I’m no F1 driver and these have given me much more confidence in the car.
 

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Just jumping in, but from my point of view it’s no flex and much less geometry change making the car more predictable. I made a comment on another thread about being able to relax my ankle and foot. The uniballs helped immensely. Helped relax my anal sphincter too, though not excessively. THE best mod you can have done for enjoyment of your 4C bar none. You can feel the grip through the seat of your pants that I couldn’t with the rubber bushes. I’m no F1 driver and these have given me much more confidence in the car.
Just bought a set. I'll get the Alfaworks shims on the front too. Hopefully get this all done when they fit my exhaust.

On the ECU, if I get a cloned ECU from them rather than remap mine, can I put everything back to standard if I needed to have work done at Alfa under warranty? Is that the point? what about the gearbox remap?
 

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Just bought a set. I'll get the Alfaworks shims on the front too. Hopefully get this all done when they fit my exhaust.

On the ECU, if I get a cloned ECU from them rather than remap mine, can I put everything back to standard if I needed to have work done at Alfa under warranty? Is that the point? what about the gearbox remap?
Yes, that’s very much the point while under warranty. I’m happy with the speed at which my transmission changes gear. I have had a go of a 4C with a Scara73 remap thanks to alfa1105 and that is a level beyond standard. Fast and smooth with no clunks you occasionally get with the oem tcm software. Very impressive. No experience with the Alfaworks one.
 
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