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Hello everyone. I'd like to inform you that we have finished and tested Street / Sport / Race engine mount for our Alfa 4C.

We have successfully resolved all the stock design issues (rigidity, weight, centerhole oversize)

I must say I am really happy with the final product, especially when we compared stock engine mount to our final engine mount design. Centerhole is now sized to exactly fit the engine mount bolt. All versions are lighter by 40% or 200g if you like, 100% rust free and the main point - they are super rigid at minor NVH increase - depending of the compound selection. Extra bonus is that they look much better than stock mount.

They are available in 3 different compounds:
I've extensively tested "race" engine mount and now I'm running "sport" version. For most users I think "sport" version is the way to go. Street - blue version is comparable with stock engine mount with almost no increased NVH, really hard to notice. Sport - black engine mount is stiffer than stock with minor NVH increase, designed for occasional track users. Race - red version is recommended for drag, track and race focused users as NVH is mildly increased, some transmission whine can be heard at particular rpm and cold start engine shaking is now transferred a bit more to the interior. I'll stick to the "race" engine mount as NVH increase doesn't bother me that much and gives 4C some "race car" sensation. Personally I like this version the most.

As many of you have complained about delivery times to USA, we have now also DHL express shipping available in 2-3 days, but costs are accordingly higher. Economy delivery is still available though.

Thanks to all the users who have supported us so far and we hope you'll find this upgrade worthwhile as our rear arm uniball conversion.

Regards,

Rudi

https://www.galemotorsport.com/product-page/alfa-romeo-4c-race-engine-mount
 

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Good job!
I seem to remember you previously had aftermarket polybushes fitted. How do yours compare with that for firmness, response and nvh?
cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I was using stock engine mount and later powerflex bushing insert, which is a very affordable solution that does the job more or less. However, like I already said, 4C is my best and most expensive car I ever had so far, so I've decided not to take even a single shortcut in terms of upgrades, so that's why I didn't like the idea of sticking a dummy polyurethane part into the stock rusty mount, I didn't like the center hole diameter oversize, weight and yet it felt a bit soft to me, so we designed our own solution. Not the cheapest out there, but if only the best does the job for you, than this is the way to go.

NVH is hard to measure, but I'd say:

  • stock > street (blue) = +10% (not really noticeable)
  • stock > sport (black) = +35% (slightly noticeable)
  • stock > race (red) = +50% (mildly noticeable - at cold start, minor transmission whine noticeable, etc.)
Stiffness:

  • I'll post exact shore values and comparison to stock engine mount ASAP
BTW, the rusty engine mount bushing on the pictures above is stock engine mount. I hope anyone didn't think it's our bushing. :grin2:
 

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Can you post a pic of where this goes and how involved the swap is? The transmission insert version was literally a 30 minute job on a lift and with an impact gun. Wondering how involved this one is.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
This part replaces the rubber bushing in the factory engine mount.

1. Remove rear diffusor
2. Remove bottom engine mount
3. Press out existing stock rubber bushing
4. Press in new bushing
5. Install engine mount
6. Install rear difussor

You need a hydraulic press to press in the new bushing. Other than that, it's the same 30 minute job.
 

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I know that EC’s instructions for their PowerFlex bushing require placing a shim under the enging to keep it in place when you remove the mount. Also describes heat shield removal.

http://eurocompulsion.net/LOWERENGINEMOUNT4C.pdf

For those of us who wouldn’t see this as an obvious step, can you give any suggestions?

Note: torques on the linked page.
 

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@Gale Thank you, I see now what your part does. It's basically a full replacement versus the insert. I've done this twice now with both the black and yellow Powerflex versions and the work is fast. Not sure how hard it is to press the old "full" insert out, but I'm sure i's not too bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
For those of us who wouldn’t see this as an obvious step, can you give any suggestions?Note: torques on the linked page.

I'd rate this mod skill requirements 2/10 due to requirement of the press, other than that it's simple.



@Gale Thank you, I see now what your part does. It's basically a full replacement versus the insert. I've done this twice now with both the black and yellow Powerflex versions and the work is fast. Not sure how hard it is to press the old "full" insert out, but I'm sure i's not too bad.

It requires a regular press of 2t or more.
 

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I know that EC’s instructions for their PowerFlex bushing require placing a shim under the enging to keep it in place when you remove the mount. Also describes heat shield removal.

http://eurocompulsion.net/LOWERENGINEMOUNT4C.pdf

For those of us who wouldn’t see this as an obvious step, can you give any suggestions?

Note: torques on the linked page.


I found the shim basically pointless. It would just fall out anyways. But the motor is so small that putting a pry bar in there even after it moves and moving it back into place wasn’t a problem at all.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I found the shim basically pointless. It would just fall out anyways. But the motor is so small that putting a pry bar in there even after it moves and moving it back into place wasn’t a problem at all.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
the function of the shim is only to realign the holes when rebolting the torque mount.
if you are gonna use a pry bar or anything metal for that matter, just be careful it doesn't fall down and your head happens to be directly under it.... ;)

i just used a wood dowel. The very large flathead screwdriver I initially tried using was a near miss (of my head)! lol!
 
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the function of the shim is only to realign the holes when rebolting the torque mount.

if you are gonna use a pry bar or anything metal for that matter, just be careful it doesn't fall down and your head happens to be directly under it.... ;)



i just used a wood dowel. The very large flathead screwdriver I initially tried using was a near miss (of my head)! lol!


I also used a wood dowel. The install was pretty simple overall.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I installed them. My lap times went down 1s. Just kidding. :grin2:

I've been running the race (red) version for 1 season now. It still looks intact, although I have removed the heat shield that was on it. Other than less engine tilt on the shifts and better looks it doesn't really make a car faster.
 

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Gale,
I tried your ebay link and it doesn't connect with your account. I'm looking for Track focused race version. BTW, I already have powerflex bushing insert in Black. Is your Race version stiffer than my current upgrade? Curious before I pull the trigger.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I never really tried Powerflex bushing insert, so I cannot really compare. if you like it, keep it. If you want to pimp your car, I think our engine mount looks and feels good. Race version will slightly increase NVH on idle, other than that, I don't find it too hardcore.
 

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All the talk is always about the torque rod bushing. What about options for the actual engine mounts? I have the Powerflex race version of the torque rod bushing but the engine still hops around like a bunny back there. Just curious.... I know it is much harder to switch out
 

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Discussion Starter #18
My engine is quite firmly planted with race bushing, but like I said, I haven't really tried the Powerflex inserter to make a comaprison. Regarding the main upper engine mounts...no hero has yet asigned to design them. OEM look bulky and heavy. Maybe one day when when we'll run out of projects I'll give it a try. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
This is what I have been owing you guys for some time now. The exact stiffness of the mounts. Here are the specs:
  • Stock: 45 ShA
  • Blue / street: 50 ShA (15% stiffer than stock)
  • Black / sport: 60 ShA (30% stiffer than stock)
  • Red / race: 70 ShA (60% stiffer than stock)
Maybe some insights from those of you who run these engine mounts?
 
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