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Still going to guess battery. If it doesn’t hold up under staring load, it probably has abad cell.

I’m no expert, but this has been the source of most similar issues we’ve read about. However, if it is some transmission code that makes the ECU think that the car is in gear, perhaps that’s why it doesn’t start?

What voltage did you read?
Assuming you park it in gear, does the display show “1” when you turn the key to “run”?
Does it go to “N” by itself when you turn it to “start”?
Can you shift to neutral manually between turning the key from “run” to “start”?
Does that help it start?
Thanks guys for the reply.
I think the voltage reads just a bit low but still in the safe range.
I park in gear ‘1’ and when I start up sometimes I see ‘1’ sometimes I see ‘N’. Pretty random.
Also, sometime auto mode is disable, can only use manual.
I’m very new to this car, I have it for only a week and drove it for less than 200km.
I hope it is just a bad battery, I have disconnected the battery now until I have an appointment to bring the car in.
 

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You can just take the battery in to be tested, if the car is not on the road (insured) for winter at this time.

But if it is not stored on a charger for the rest of the winter or next winter, it will likely go bad again.

I think that there is a very good chance that your battery is bad.
 

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I’m in Vancouver. If I can start the car, I should be able to drive it to the dealer.
I believe the battery voltage is around 12.3/12.4.
 

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Voltage sounds a bit low but that is not the whole story. If you have a bad cell the voltage may be somewhat OK but it can't support the ampacity required. Can you pull the battery yourself and take to a place that can test the battery (I am guessing since in Vancouver it is in hibernation). You may not want to chance a drive as it may leave you stranded if the battery is bad.
I am guessing that the battery is bad OR it wasn't fully charged after it was changed out by the dealer. If the charge was low....just a couple of short trips probably weren't enough to fully charge it. Do you have a battery tender that was included with some of the cars.....if you connect that it will charge the battery after testing for faults. Note that maintainer wasn't designed for heavy duty charging of a battery ....will take a while to fully charge a battery. And of course don't use a regular battery charger to maintain the battery or you can overcharge it. Best is to get the battery tested. Just because it is new doesn't guarantee it is not faulty.
 

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Unfortunately I do not have a battery tender with me right now(dealer forgot to include it when I picked up the car).
I’ll contact the dealer and see what they say.
 

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I found a battery charger (not tender) that came with my wife's Macan, never been used. I assume it can be used on the 4c? I'll try it later.
105143

105144
 

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I'd love to write a smart-assed reply (after all, check out my avatar), but yes, it should work just fine.

Important is that it stays connected whenever you aren't driving the car regularly (several times a week, or at least once or twice for a good duration and without a lot of stops/restarts).
 

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Ok, I cleaned the battery terminals once again and charged the battery overnight. Battery voltage reads 12.8.
All error messages disappeared except for check engine light.
I drive the car for 15-20 minutes, start it couple times, everything seem ok.
But check engine light is still on, auto mode unavailable, can’t use D and A mode.
 

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Usually, a CEL disappears after a few re-starts (although the code is still stored) unless the problem persists.
Might do it after the next cycle, or perhaps it is insisting you read and reset the code. Could be an unrelated issue.

Do you have an OBDII reader? I've been able to read and reset a few codes with an inexpensive one, but there is a Foxwell model that others on this forum recommend for being more capable.

Would be interesting to know what code is stored.

Probably still best that a dealership look at it.
 

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Hi JYCH,

I am in Vancouver lower mainland too. Did you buy it from Main Street or Maple Ridge? I had this exact same problem 6 months ago. It happened to me probably around 5-6 times in total that all the lights came on when I was driving, 2 other times when I was on the red light and my car stalled. I brought that to the dealership on Main Street. The mechanic said due the fact that it's throwing all the warnings (which the likelyhood of everything on the list are malfunction is extremely unlikely), that suggested to him that it was some circuits issue. He said he cleaned up all the connectors that transmit data and asked me to observe how things go.

I read some threads on this forum that someone said when this happened, driving in auto mode would not cause this to happen. So after my dealership fixed it, I have been driving in Auto until now without issues. When the weather is better, I will go back to manual mode and see what happen. Right before the lights came on, were you driving in manual mode?

And yes, I had the exact same symptoms, when this issue still persist and codes have not been fully cleared, the car might go to limb mode, sometimes I would stuck in manual mode if the lights came on when I was driving, sometimes I would stuck in auto mode (most of the time kicked to auto from manual, then stuck in auto), and only Natural is available. Your first and second gear power might drop too, until you are on second gear and hit 2500~3000 rpm.

Please let me know what your mechanic find out about it. Because I want to see if it's actually the data connections causing the issue. I am so worried that if I switched back to manual mode, it will happen again.

Levin
 

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Hi levin,

I bought it from Maple Ridge, I have booked an appointment next week, let see what they say about this issue.
I drove the car yesterday and everything seems fine but I’m stuck in manual mode, no auto and can’t switch to D/A mode, only check engine light is on.
You just remind me, I was trying to switch from auto to manual while I was driving and got a message saying can’t witch to manual. And few second later all the warning lights came on. Maybe I shouldn’t switch to manual while the car is moving?
 

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There should be no reason not to be able to switch in and out of manual mode while the car is moving, under normal circumstances.

I switch back and forth all the time.

You are getting that warning message because of a problem - probably battery voltage.

Be sure that your tech checks that you have the latest transmission flashes (firmware updates) from Alfa when your car is in the shop.
 

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you have to have them to clear the check engine light before you can regain the D/A mode.

do we know what's the latest transmission flashes version? Last time I asked them is there anything to update mine and they said mine is the latest. Which I think they might just brush me off ..... Next time when I visit them I will ask them what's my current version instead.
 

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Another route to check for people in the future....I experienced my own CTOD....after two weeks at the dealer, they've determined the culprit is a bad solenoid to the akra exhaust. According to the dealer the wiring diagram they have doesn't include upgraded options (akra) and therefore they believed the BCM was the problem at first, but after replacing that, the problem didn't disappear. Car should be back this week....which is great bc this 70 degree weather is calling.
 

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Another route to check for people in the future....I experienced my own CTOD....after two weeks at the dealer, they've determined the culprit is a bad solenoid to the akra exhaust. According to the dealer the wiring diagram they have doesn't include upgraded options (akra) and therefore they believed the BCM was the problem at first, but after replacing that, the problem didn't disappear. Car should be back this week....which is great bc this 70 degree weather is calling.
Great Point!
Please post the part number/pic if you can. This would be of great help to some.
TIA
 
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