Ok, other than putting the passenger foot panel back in place and the center trim piece behind the dash, the install is complete. Firstly, I evidently messed up and thought my mirror had the hidden compass but nope. Not this model. So if you do want the compass be sure which model you order. However, I am still very happy. No more remotes to carry.
A caution when you are moving the plastic trim piece that covers the upper, left mounting bolt for the passenger foot panel. There is a plasic rivet down through the top. No problem. On each side is a washer head torx bolt. These are very, very soft metal. The numbnuts that installed the radar/laser system stripped both of them out. I had to use an easyout tool to get both out. So be careful and use the right bit. The good news is that these bolts and the plastic A-pillar clip I broke are stock items near me and dirt cheap from dealer. Less than $3 for the trim clip. I would have guessed $10-15.
Below are the last of the pics
The first one is how NOT to make a connection for a +12v power source. This again was done by the dimwits who installed the radar/laser system. Note the small black wire with red spade terminal just jammed into a spare fuse opening and not fuse protected. BTW, the fuse location this tapped into is the only empty one that has any power. It is ignition powered, not always on. The fuse location just above this one is also empty but has no internal wiring so it is dead.
The next pic shows a standard ATM fuse tap, available almost anywhere. It holds 2 fuses, one for the original circuit and one for the tap circuit. In this case there was no fuse in this spot but the tap still requires 2 fuses in order to work. I will have 2 loads on this tap. Each is 5 amp. One for radar/laser and the other for the new mirror. So I used a 10 amp main fuse (2 as stated).
Next pic shows what needs to be trimmed for the fuse tap to fit. Just by the "S" in the word SOLO you can see that I had to trim a little notch in the "wall" surrounding the fuses themselves. Nothing structural, nothing will leak, etc. Without trimming this notch (I just folded the notch down out of the way) the tap will not fully engage into the fuse receptacle.
The next pic shows the fuse tap in place and all wired up. Like I said, the tap is 10 amp and is broken down with 2 inline ATM fuses of 5 amp each. Kind of like the way power is normally distributed and plenty safe.
Lastly, a night time view of the new mirror powered up.
Overall, a very useful, inexpensive, yet cool mod!