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I recently completed this mod. I have to say that while it was certainly one of the more inexpensive mods I've ever done -- a mere $2.36 -- it was certainly not the easiest. I knew in advance it was going to work. I cannot imagine going through all of that on just a discovery mission to see if it could work. A big kudos to the OP @RickT.

In the interest of assisting others looking to do complete this as well, I humbly submit the following write up.

Parts needed: quantity (10) 3/8" washers -- cost $2.36 from Home Depot

Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, 3mm hex key/Allen wrench, socket wrench, 8mm socket, 10mm socket, 13mm socket, interior panel tool (better than brute force to separate the steering wheel shroud), towel to protect the driver side door sill (and your back!)

STEP 1: Limber up. Seriously. You're going to be contorting into odd positions you didn't think were humanly possible in order to access some of the screws and bolts. The footwell area is NOT very big in these cars, especially if you're 6' with broad shoulders like me. I believe completing this mod will actually qualify you to perform at Cirque du Soleil.

STEP 2: Make an appointment with your chiropractor. Just take my word on this...

STEP 3: On US cars, remove the driver side knee air bag. It's held on by (4) 13mm bolts. You could try to leave this attached to the lower dash section and remove them as one piece but the airbag has an electrical connection which will necessitate either leaving it in place which would not leave enough room to work if still connected to the lower dash OR you could disconnect the electrical connection. I didn't want to (possibly) generate any airbag faults so I left the connection connected. Hence my suggestion to remove the airbag and then let it hang in place. Conveniently, it is just the right length to reach the floor and dangle gently without putting undue pressure on the electrical connection.
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STEP 4: Remove the lower dash section. It is attached with (4) 3mm hex screws. You may struggle with the screw closest to the airbag. It is very hard to get to as it is partially obscured by the OBD port, at least in my car. Just be patient and methodical.
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STEP 5: Remove the lower steering wheel shroud. It is attached with (4) screws as well as a series of tabs that interlock with the upper shroud and the third piece that fits around the cruise control stalk. Be particularly careful with the last piece or you might tear the tab on the bottom of the stalk cover. If you do, a little epoxy or superglue will fix it.
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STEP 6: I didn't see others mention it, but on my car there was a bracket blocking access to one of the bolts of the steering column which I had to remove in order to access the bolt. The bracket is held on with (2) 8mm bolts. Disconnect the cable clips and put the bracket aside after removing the bolts.
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STEP 7: Loosen or remove the (2) most rearward bolts (closet to the driver) on the steering column with a 10mm socket. I tried just loosening them but wasn't able to get enough play in the steering column in order to install the washers. So I remove one side entirely, installed the washers on forward bolt on that side, then lightly reinstalled the rearward bolt and removed the opposite side and repeated the process.

STEP 8: Remove the (2) most forward bolts (towards the front of the car) with a 10mm socket. Install (5) washers on each side.
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STEP 9: Tighten up the (4) steering column bolts then sit in the driver's seat and marvel at your handy work. With the seat still in the factory mounting spot, at 6' tall I'm able to see the entire gauge cluster and still have a little extra travel to raise the steering wheel higher if I wanted. Smile. Now get back to work and finish the job.

STEP 10: Reassembly is basically the reverse order of the above. Pay attention when reinstalling the driver side knee airbag as there is a grounding wire that needs to be fitted on the guide post on that side.
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I hope this helps!
 

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Very nice write up - thanks.

Based in your step 3, step 3a should really be disconnect the battery and wait 15 minutes. Do that any time you’re doing anything with an airbag. Especially before you cram yourself into the wheel well with it.
 

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Very nice write up - thanks.

Based in your step 3, step 3a should really be disconnect the battery and wait 15 minutes. Do that any time you’re doing anything with an airbag. Especially before you cram yourself into the wheel well with it.
YES...I was about to write that you should ALWAYS disconnect the battery when you are working around an air bag...you beat me to it! Good safety catch!!!!
 

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Just completed!! Feel like gumby. But what a difference!! Thanks all who put together great write up and photos.
Was able to do without dropping airbag. Lots more maneuvering around and tighter fits. But now I can SEE
 

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I just finished this, thanks to the OP and courtier for the great photo guides!

I used 6x M8 washers per side. There’s more than a bit of thread left so I could have gone more aggressive, but I’m 6’1” / 185cm so my need wasn’t as extreme as some others. Now I can see the full instrument display! 😁😊😁

I’m wondering if I’ll find the seats good enough now or if I’ll still consider changing them. Guess we’ll see in a few months.

I also am a big weight reduction guy, and I am not a big knee airbag guy. So for now I no longer have a lower dash cover, knee airbag, or knee deflection bar/shield assembly on either side (just open space). I also removed the little forward center tunnel bits. I replaced the knee airbag with a 2.2 ohm resistor, wrapped it up in tesa tape, and grounded it at the center tunnel and either wrapped or zip tied the wire to it, I can’t remember which. No airbag light.

This made the steering wheel cover upper half look like absolute crap so I ordered a koshi carbon cover. I then went on to get a bit of stealth xpel wrap to make it matte like the other interior bits, and then a bit of plain xpel so I can permanently remove the floor mats and replace them with film.

So in the end this caused me to spend a few hundred bucks but I’m very happy. I may grab a lightweight battery for the car too. Maybe all together it will be enough weight reduction that I can tell the difference - probably not but it doesn’t hurt.
 

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Thanks for all the great write up.

For step 4, is the "lower dash section" only held by those 4 bolts? Because there seems to be some tab or something holding the the right side "lower dash section". Thanks.
 

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2016 Alfa Romeo 4C
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Thanks for all the great write up.

For step 4, is the "lower dash section" only held by those 4 bolts? Because there seems to be some tab or something holding the the right side "lower dash section". Thanks.
I had that same problem. Couldn't figure out how to detach the right side of the lower dash from the center console. I just let it hang and worked around it. It was OK, but would have been nice to remove it completely.
 

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I had that same problem. Couldn't figure out how to detach the right side of the lower dash from the center console. I just let it hang and worked around it. It was OK, but would have been nice to remove it completely.
I was able to remove the lower dash section. Turns out in addition to the 4 bolts, it was held together by a metal tab on the right side. Since it's metal there's no risk of breaking it if I pulled hard enough. The rest of the installation went pretty smoothly, except at the very last step, one of the screws used to hold the knee airbag was stripped, and I couldn't put the last bolt on. I was also able to drop the steering wheel with the front bolts in place by tilting the steering column at a steep enough angle. I put 5 washers and the tilt wasn't enough. So I put 2 more washers for a total of 7. Now, I can see the whole screen, except for the #4 which is now blocked by the top of the dash cover. Thanks to the OP and everyone's contribution for this fantastic solution!
 
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