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have you plugged in the blue antenna power cable? it needs to be connected to the iso harness, but isn't in the joying iso harness as standard. you will have connected the antenna, but it needs power to amplify too.

i've not done it myself so i'm not 100% but the blue cable is separate, and if you look at the factory harness there are extra pins which i believe are supposed to connect to it.
Radio works on mine by default, it will pick up channels and I can hear it but the quality and signal strength isn't great. To be honest I never used it with the stock alpine unit so I can't remember what they sounded like to compare. I think it needs the amplification Sparky talks about if you want to use it often and reliably but I'll probably just leave mine.
Visited my installer last week and he connected the Blue antenna power cable to the OEM ISO harness, now FM works :) My installer made it look factory so if I ever want to install the original Alpine unit (say if I was to sell the 4C), it just unplugs nicely :)
 

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Right, 4C Joying experts - I posted about this previously and it's been mentioned in other posts but looking for a clear answer (and will hopefully help future Joying installers).

The Joying unit is plug and play in the 4C, except for those who have the Alpine system with OEM amplifier. My understanding is, to get the Alpine amp to get the "turn-on" signal:

1 - the "AMP-CONT" cable needs to be connected to the 4C stock wiring harness
2 - within the Joying Unit, in settings, the "Amp-on" setting (I believe) needs to be switched on

Without the above, you will get no sound at all out of the system.

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So, can anyone please confirm the best & cleanest way to wire this up correctly?


I'll be buttoning everything up with my Joying install tomorrow, including painting the back of the screen and shroud, and want finish the wiring properly and securely.

Much appreciated!
 

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You guys ... keep making me have to use my own critical thinking 😂

I've figured out a solution that works for me and I have a nice solid connection (this is important aside from the obvious reasons, as our cars have a nice stiff ride, perfect for loosening electrical connections)

I'll post up a small write-up once my photos upload!
 

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Keeping it real simple, below is the Joying harness, with the Amp-Cont cable out to the side. I actually extended this cable a little to give me more slack as the wiring is tight.

118843


In a perfect world (i.e. if the Joying harness was a perfect match for the OEM 4C harness), the Amp-Cont wire would be wired into this harness second row from bottom, in the right-most slot. See pic for orientation:

118844


Unfortunately the wire is open and does not have the right spade-type connector to neatly slot into the harness here. I tried googling around to see if I could buy a connector pin type thing but had no joy (I was trying to explain this in a previous post).

On the 4C factory loom (which the joying harness plugs into), the light blue/grey cable is the Amp cable which needs an ACC 12V signal from the Joying, to enable the amp to be switched on (so you get .. sound).

118845


This wire is where the Joying Amp-Cont would connect to if it was installed in the Joying harness. As I couldn't get that to work, I used a tap

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It's a tight fit, I would recommend using a small a tap as possible. You can see I've essentially bypassed the harness and tapped directly into the Amp-cont wire. It does mean there are extra steps to removing the Joying, but it keeps the car factory and OEM. Re-installing the Alpine would be a 20min job.

I then went around the tap and Amp-Cont cable with some OEM style cloth cable wrap to keep everything tidy and secure. Slotted everything neatly back into place, and went for a drive to confirm nothing was shaking loose.

Make sure to select the Amp-Cont option in the Joying settings. I'll spend an evening this week configuring the joying launcher to clean everything up so will try and take a photo of this too.

Hope this helps someone as I haven't seen this covered before in detail.
 

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Does anyone have an issue where if you push in the tabs to sink the radio further into the dash that it doesnt really lock in? Mine just seems to pull in and out completely.

I'm also have an issue where I cant connect to Google service to login when on wifi or off my phone's hotspot. I can browse websites via Chrome but can't login without an error.

119255
 

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Does anyone have an issue where if you push in the tabs to sink the radio further into the dash that it doesnt really lock in? Mine just seems to pull in and out completely.

I'm also have an issue where I cant connect to Google service to login when on wifi or off my phone's hotspot. I can browse websites via Chrome but can't login without an error.
I had that issue on the new 7" unit that I replaced my 8.8" with (I need to take some pics and make a post, but it's the new model with the physical volume knob and I like it better) and a firmware update fixed it.
 

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Reading through this, I like the width of the 8.8 unit but I actually don’t mind a taller screen and block the vents. I wouldn’t want to go wider though. Does anyone know which Joyent size would do?
I thought the same until I bought the 8.8 and now I am glad I didn't buy anything else. Looks perfect, works perfect (I mean, carplay crashes now and then but apart from that...)
 

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Has anyone figured out what to buy and what tools are needed to get this part done? I bought the head unit, but I want to get that pin installed so I won't need to tap any wires

On the left is the Alpine "jumper" cable ISO connector. On the right is the standard ISO connector from Joying. The missing pin is the remote wire. On the Joying harness, the remote wire (AMP-CONT Orange/Black) is in the wiring bundle, but not installed into the ISO connector, hence the missing pin:

View attachment 116231

so question for wiring whiz's - is there a neat OEM way to get a pin connector for the AMP CONT wire and insert it into the ISO plug? Or should I just tap directly into the stock amp cable? Can you guys post up what you did?
 

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Has anyone figured out what to buy and what tools are needed to get this part done? I bought the head unit, but I want to get that pin installed so I won't need to tap any wires
My advice would be to head to a local audio installer - they would likely have the pin you need to connect the amp wire into the harness. If you want to do the install yourself - maybe you can make a start and then head to the audio installer and show them exactly what's needed so they can find a pin of the correct size - this is the key bit.
 

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Has anyone figured out what to buy and what tools are needed to get this part done? I bought the head unit, but I want to get that pin installed so I won't need to tap any wires
I ended up purchasing this: VEHICLE CAR AUDIO PLAYER ISO 16WAY MALE CONNECTOR | eBay
Will report back how it works, but it seems to be jump crimp the wires into the pin connector, and shove the pin connector into the harness until it clicks

There's enough pins for the AMPlifier wire as well as the ANTenna wire. Now to figure out which pin in the harness is for the antenna power signal
 

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Hey all. So on the official Joying website, there are two identical 8.8’s for sale with no discernible difference besides the titles. One says “new”, but it has two reviews versus 0 reviews, which leads me to believe it’s older.

Anyone got any insight?

 

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Hey all. So on the official Joying website, there are two identical 8.8’s for sale with no discernible difference besides the titles. One says “new”, but it has two reviews versus 0 reviews, which leads me to believe it’s older.

Anyone got any insight?

I asked them about it

they difference is a different Home Screen and that’s it
 

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For those that have done this install themselves that have the Alpine head unit: The amplifier power wire needs to be manually connected, but what about the antenna power wire? Does that one also need to be manually connected? What is the color of that wire on the vehicle side?
 

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So I received the connector pin hardware and finally got around to documenting assembling the wiring harness

1. The package comes with an empty connector receptacle (unneeded) and a bag of male pins (needed!)
2. The male pin has two crimping locations. The first is where you crimp down the bare wire to make the electrical connection. The second is where you crimp onto the sheath of the wire so that any tugging forces are on the sheath of the wire and not the bare metal itself
3. I stripped the wire to the right length, and crimped down the pin to the wire
4. Then I inserted it into the open location in the connector expecting it to just click in
5. It didn’t smoothly slide in and click. :( instead it went in a ways and friction prevented it from going in any further
6. I used a pair of pliers to pull the pin further into the connector
7. As you can see from the final pic, I wasn’t able to pull the pin in all the way to match the height of the other pins, but I think it’s in far enough to make a connection. I also mangled the pin a little bit as the pliers would slide off the pin as I was yanking.
8. Next step is to actually install this into the car and test it out, wish me luck!
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