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So I received the connector pin hardware and finally got around to documenting assembling the wiring harness

1. The package comes with an empty connector receptacle (unneeded) and a bag of male pins (needed!)
2. The male pin has two crimping locations. The first is where you crimp down the bare wire to make the electrical connection. The second is where you crimp onto the sheath of the wire so that any tugging forces are on the sheath of the wire and not the bare metal itself
3. I stripped the wire to the right length, and crimped down the pin to the wire
4. Then I inserted it into the open location in the connector expecting it to just click in
5. It didn’t smoothly slide in and click. :( instead it went in a ways and friction prevented it from going in any further
6. I used a pair of pliers to pull the pin further into the connector
7. As you can see from the final pic, I wasn’t able to pull the pin in all the way to match the height of the other pins, but I think it’s in far enough to make a connection. I also mangled the pin a little bit as the pliers would slide off the pin as I was yanking.
8. Next step is to actually install this into the car and test it out, wish me luck!
View attachment 121728 View attachment 121729 View attachment 121730 View attachment 121731 View attachment 121732 View attachment 121733 View attachment 121734 View attachment 121735
An update and a question

Update

If you compare the harnesses and how I added a pin for the amp turn on, you’ll notice that compared to the Alfa harness there is also one more pin missing. That’s the antenna power signal. I went ahead and added a pin there too for the Joying harness. This literally should be 100% plug and play

Question

when I removed the Alpine head unit there are two 3.5mm stereo plugs. One is a straight connector and a second is a J connector that ishe’d in place with a plastic retainer. I’m assuming one is mic and one is GPS. Question is: which one is which?
 

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Font Operating system Software Screenshot Rectangle

Hey guys I have read through this thread but I am still left with a few questions.

1. I ordered the the reverse camera that goes in the license plate light and want to connect it to the Joying 8.8. (Auto Reverse Parking NTSC Car Rear View Backup Camera For Fiat Grande Punto | eBay). Do I need to order the "AHD Reverse Camera" Accessory circled above to be able to connect it?

2. I have a wireless OBD2 reader (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JFRFJG6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) that I want to use with the Joying. Do I need the "OBD2" accessory listed above or is that just for a hard wired OBD2?

3. Has anyone done aftermarket TMPS that show a value (actual PSI in each tire) compare to just "low" that we have right now?

Sorry if this has already been covered.
 

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Keeping it real simple, below is the Joying harness, with the Amp-Cont cable out to the side. I actually extended this cable a little to give me more slack as the wiring is tight.

View attachment 118843

In a perfect world (i.e. if the Joying harness was a perfect match for the OEM 4C harness), the Amp-Cont wire would be wired into this harness second row from bottom, in the right-most slot. See pic for orientation:

View attachment 118844

Unfortunately the wire is open and does not have the right spade-type connector to neatly slot into the harness here. I tried googling around to see if I could buy a connector pin type thing but had no joy (I was trying to explain this in a previous post).

On the 4C factory loom (which the joying harness plugs into), the light blue/grey cable is the Amp cable which needs an ACC 12V signal from the Joying, to enable the amp to be switched on (so you get .. sound).

View attachment 118845

This wire is where the Joying Amp-Cont would connect to if it was installed in the Joying harness. As I couldn't get that to work, I used a tap

View attachment 118846

It's a tight fit, I would recommend using a small a tap as possible. You can see I've essentially bypassed the harness and tapped directly into the Amp-cont wire. It does mean there are extra steps to removing the Joying, but it keeps the car factory and OEM. Re-installing the Alpine would be a 20min job.

I then went around the tap and Amp-Cont cable with some OEM style cloth cable wrap to keep everything tidy and secure. Slotted everything neatly back into place, and went for a drive to confirm nothing was shaking loose.

Make sure to select the Amp-Cont option in the Joying settings. I'll spend an evening this week configuring the joying launcher to clean everything up so will try and take a photo of this too.

Hope this helps someone as I haven't seen this covered before in detail.
Hello, thanks for this post. I went all the way with the installation adding a pin to the harness etc etc and still no sound………until I saw your post and ….the “Make sure..” hint on the settings. That saved the day.
 

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My unit will randomly disconnect Carplay and then not reconnect. It gets stuck at the Connecting.... screen and only by turning off the car and then back on does it reconnect. I am thinking maybe a head unit firmware upgrade? Has anyone updated the firmware (or the software) on the unit? I am brand new to Android based head units and have no idea how to proceed. I haven't even been able to find a well written manual for the unit that explains everything. Any help is appreciated!
 

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Hello, thanks for this post. I went all the way with the installation adding a pin to the harness etc etc and still no sound………until I saw your post and ….the “Make sure..” hint on the settings. That saved the day.
Glad I could help - took a minute to figure that one out!

My unit will randomly disconnect Carplay and then not reconnect. It gets stuck at the Connecting.... screen and only by turning off the car and then back on does it reconnect. I am thinking maybe a head unit firmware upgrade? Has anyone updated the firmware (or the software) on the unit? I am brand new to Android based head units and have no idea how to proceed. I haven't even been able to find a well written manual for the unit that explains everything. Any help is appreciated!
My unit does the same thing with CarPlay
Getting a similar issue with Android auto. I use it wired with the Head Unit Reloaded app. It will randomly crash and kick me it out of AA. The worst part is it loses my Waze destination and I have to re-connect the cable and type the address in again. F'in nightmare. I'll look into a firmware update because it's unusable at the moment.
 

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I ordered both the new 7” with knob and 8.8”—I liked the 7” better with the physical knob. It replaced the Parrot, easy enough swap out except the OEM mic, when plugged in, does not work—which I think I read is a known issue.

I did a test with with some gloss CF I had laying around to see what it might look like with the exposed aluminum on both sides and created a little surround for it.

I liked it; but thought the gloss was a bit too much, so ordered a sheet of matte CF in a bit of a different weave than stock center pieces.

I cut three pieces for the top and sides. After fitting, I didn’t care for the boxed look so cut angles on each side to have them point inwards. This also gave me more surface area to VHB.

It took me longer to peel the VHB than to clean up the exposed pieces of the new 7” Joying.

Pics (2500 lumen LED shining on it—not nearly as bright—dark and goes well with the finish of the middle CF):
Gear shift Car Motor vehicle Steering part Steering wheel
Tire Automotive tire Wheel Road surface Black

Land vehicle Vehicle Plant Light Car
Motor vehicle Automotive design Vehicle Automotive tire Hood

Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive tire Automotive design Gear shift
Car Gear shift Vehicle Steering part White

Car Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive tire Gear shift

White Automotive lighting Hood Light Luggage and bags

Automotive lighting Steering part Car Camera lens Motor vehicle
 

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You have to bend the tabs on the metal cage outwards to lock it into the dash. They have a bunch of tabs on each side to allow them to fit into different dashes.
How do you bend the tabs if the radio is blocking access? Are you supposed to go around the back?

The problem is even if you secure the cage to the dash the radio itself doesn’t attach to it.
 

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How do you bend the tabs if the radio is blocking access? Are you supposed to go around the back?

The problem is even if you secure the cage to the dash the radio itself doesn’t attach to it.
Do you have a video of what you may be referring to? Once I had the brace in (it’s snug, Alfa cut the piece about 1mm to short, hence any bowing in the middle of a Parrot or Alpine), I was able push up/down on any bowed pieces. The cage will still fill loose—grab a trim kit piece or small plastic pry tool and just push the tabs in. If they do not push in easily, you may have to adjust the cage forward and back (remember, it’s at an angle).
 

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Do you have a video of what you may be referring to? Once I had the brace in (it’s snug, Alfa cut the piece about 1mm to short, hence any bowing in the middle of a Parrot or Alpine), I was able push up/down on any bowed pieces. The cage will still fill loose—grab a trim kit piece or small plastic pry tool and just push the tabs in. If they do not push in easily, you may have to adjust the cage forward and back (remember, it’s at an angle).
Let me try one more time verbally. So securing the cage is easy like you say since you just bend the tabs to secure it to the car.

But then you have the head unit itself, which unlike the parrot which has the tabs on the top and bottom, has no tabs on the head unit itself. I do see that there are tabs on each side of the cage with bumps on them that look like they are designed to secure the head unit (which has holes for those bumps) while maybe still allowing it to be inserted/removed.
 

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I resolved my remote issues (my fault in the end), CarPlay works and I can press a button to activate Siri now, but there doesn't seem to be a built in mic on my 8.8 screen. I went searching for it and couldn't find it. Siri turns on for a few seconds and then goes away with zero response.

I can put in the mic that came with it, but I was hoping to avoid having to run the wire (just lazy).

Did anyone have to do anything special to enable the built in mic? Or is this a CarPlay specific issue?

I am largely impressed with the Joying. It's super rough around the edges in a lot of ways (documentation, UI), but it's also an impressive amount of functionality for 400$, the audio does seem clearer, and so far it has been plug and play/just works.
 

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Let me try one more time verbally. So securing the cage is easy like you say since you just bend the tabs to secure it to the car.

But then you have the head unit itself, which unlike the parrot which has the tabs on the top and bottom, has no tabs on the head unit itself. I do see that there are tabs on each side of the cage with bumps on them that look like they are designed to secure the head unit (which has holes for those bumps) while maybe still allowing it to be inserted/removed.
I can visualize what you’re saying now—I did not have to bend any tabs for the head unit in the new models. I simply started at the bottom, and then slight pushed upwards until it slid in and locked into place. I have to remove later to attach the external mic, I’ll take a closer look.
 

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I resolved my remote issues (my fault in the end), CarPlay works and I can press a button to activate Siri now, but there doesn't seem to be a built in mic on my 8.8 screen. I went searching for it and couldn't find it. Siri turns on for a few seconds and then goes away with zero response.

I can put in the mic that came with it, but I was hoping to avoid having to run the wire (just lazy).

Did anyone have to do anything special to enable the built in mic? Or is this a CarPlay specific issue?

I am largely impressed with the Joying. It's super rough around the edges in a lot of ways (documentation, UI), but it's also an impressive amount of functionality for 400$, the audio does seem clearer, and so far it has been plug and play/just works.
What was the issue with the remote?

I know exactly what you’re talking about regarding the mic. Is there really not an adapter that will make the stock mic work? I also didn’t run the new mic (laziness) and just have been using it without a mic (honestly it has only happened once in ~4 months of semi daily use where I forgot I didn’t have it and even noticed).

EDIT: Here is the video where the guy said he used an adapter



It looks like a simple 2.5mm to 3.5mm stereo adapter. I am going to order one on amazon and see how it goes I guess.
 

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What was the issue with the remote?

I know exactly what you’re talking about regarding the mic. Is there really not an adapter that will make the stock mic work? I also didn’t run the new mic (laziness) and just have been using it without a mic (honestly it has only happened once in ~4 months of semi daily use where I forgot I didn’t have it and even noticed).

EDIT: Here is the video where the guy said he used an adapter



It looks like a simple 2.5mm to 3.5mm stereo adapter. I am going to order one on amazon and see how it goes I guess.
On the new Joying units, the mic jack is 2.5mm on the rear. Plugging in the stock mic was still a no-go for me. It fit fine, just didn’t work.

Here’s mine—the 8.8 and 7 are the exact same setup on the new units. The stock mic plugs in without issue (lower right).

You could swap the screens if you choose (I bought both to test which I liked more):
Steering part Motor vehicle Auto part Steering wheel Windshield
 

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On the new Joying units, the mic jack is 2.5mm on the rear. Plugging in the stock mic was still a no-go for me. It fit fine, just didn’t work.
I actually want to say mine fit as well. I didn't remember perfectly though. Kind of makes no sense that a 2.5mm mic would be different from another 2.5mm mic though. I guess I will run the wire eventually.
 

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I actually want to say mine fit as well. I didn't remember perfectly though. Kind of makes no sense that a 2.5mm mic would be different from another 2.5mm mic though. I guess I will run the wire eventually.
That’s where I’m at. I’ll get to it eventually :D

Siri still works alright with the built in unit mic. Calls are really bad, however.
 

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That’s where I’m at. I’ll get to it eventually :D

Siri still works alright with the built in unit mic. Calls are really bad, however.
I need to unplug the factory one so I can use the built in mic. I haven’t even bothered to do that. That’s how little it bothers me 😂
 
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