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Your main problem is the stiffness of the pirellis, and the idea that the factory had in mind for the 4c to differentiate from feeling too identical to a Lotus Exige.View attachment 140824
View attachment 140825
Went back home. Driving was not as good as i wanted to be.... The car was steering very heavy in corners. The tramlining was for 70 procent gone....
Mounted back my Pirelli's. Did a few roads were the tramlining was very bad @ home. Tramlining with this set up was literally gone, but steering was heavy in fast cornering.
So i looked up what forum members got for alignment and i came across with GMS street alignment.
I contacted Madeno back and this is what they told me....
rigth side Madeno alignment (actueel) vs Rudi's alignment
Di 14/03/2023 14:06
hallo André,
onderstaand vergelijk tussen de street spec. afstellingen Alfa 4C forum en de huidige actuele afstellingen
waarop we de 4C afgelopen vrijdag hebben afgesteld.
front camber street spec. -1.5 graden / actueel -0.7 graden
front caster street spec. +4.5 graden / actueel +5.1 graden
front totaal Toe street spec. 4 min. = +0.5mm / actueel + 1mm
rear camber street spec. -1.75 graden / actueel -1.90 graden
rear totaal Toe street spec. 36 minuten = +5mm Toe in / actueel +6mm Toe in
het camber voor van de street spec. -1.5 graden vindt ik persoonlijk voor sportief gebruik op de
openbare weg redelijk optimistisch. normaal gesproken verkiezen wij iets minder camber op de
voorwielen waardoor de auto minder nerveus is, betere remweg heeft omdat er in rechte lijn
meer rubber op het asfalt staat. door iets meer caster af te stellen, krijg je het camber erbij
wanneer nodig op het buitenwiel tijdens insturen en gaar er juist camber af op het binnenwiel
zodat de overall grip op de vooras beter wordt.
om een indruk te geven en het realistisch te maken wat het huidige caster doet icm met de huidige camber afstellingen:
bij 10 graden stuuruitslag gaat het buitenwiel in de bocht van -0.7 graden camber naar - 1.4 graden camber
het binnenwiel in de bocht daarentegen gaat juist terug van -0.7 naar +0.3 graden postief zodat er meer overall grip
en tractie is op de gehele vooras.
er zijn meerdere wegen naar Rome...)
grtn,
Leo
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Below Rudi's sheet
View attachment 140826
They totaly don't make a fuss about anything. They give you the alignment you want. I can go back without a problem to fine tune...
So, feel free to discuss my alignment...Thanks guy's.
Change for wider, lighter, strong wheels, try on Michelin Pilot Sports, of the 225/x and 275+/45 kind.
Done. Also, upgrading to stainless teflon lines and the best track-spec brake fluid you can afford to keep will eliminate brake fade that oem somehow also manages. Pads aren't necessary, but if you want more sport back into the whole deal, upgrade for better bite here too, match with vaned rotors for clearing the extra gas made.
After that, add Rudy's links, maybe arm links depending how aggressive you went on the tires, and the tramlining is dead.
The alignment is all compromises if you stay with those oem wheels and tires, mainly because it's McPherson rear square car, a short one at that. Until someone comes out with an "extended rear subframe" and push back the rear wheels, speed will accentuate the road or the beneficial caster will bind things up at the far end. With softer tires, more compliance/isolation from the road's forms, then it will drive more like that commuter car you're trying to approximate... But then you must lose the feeling that the 4c brings to the yard in spades. Race cars don't do well as street cars because of this very reality.