My Joying Installation - Parts and Process

3031 Views 12 Replies 3 Participants Last post by hugof, Nov 11, 2020

Stevendesq

Discussion Starter · Sep 3, 2020 (Edited)

I have absolutely no technical or automotive training. I am an attorney so rarely work with my hands. I am very handy and good at improvising. I felt a little uncomfortable starting this project but it was easier than I expected. Certain parts did give me some grief (tapping the reverse light) but the hard parts just added time to the process.

Camera - Car Reverse Rear View Backup Color Camera For Fiat Grande Punto With Guide Line | eBay It is a little low on the quality of picture but fits perfectly in the license plate light. Definitely sufficient for reversing. I did not want to drill into the car!

Tools - https://www.amazon.com/MICTUNING-Re...words=car+removal+tools&qid=1599149044&sr=8-2 These are great to remove clips without scratching the vehicle. really helpful when removing the center console.

I had two precision, really flat, screw drivers and needle nose pliers in my toolbox.

Thermostat Wire - https://www.amazon.com/CIMPLE-CO-Thermostat-Residential-Commercial/dp/B07SZ5121N/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2JAAU9SS99S4A&dchild=1&keywords=thermostat+wire+18/3&qid=1599149103&sprefix=thermostate+wire,aps,155&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyRDZRWE5BUk1MMVRDJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTI2OTUwM08yNENONjhUOU9PNSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUExMDEzNTkwMzBMVExTTUFaWTNTRCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

I ran power and dimming wire using 18/3 wire. You can use different wires but I chose this because of the added insulation. I ran the wire through the engine bay.

Wire protection – Heat resistant tape https://www.amazon.com/Temperature-...ds=heat+resistant+tape&qid=1599149250&sr=8-13.

Wire Loom - Amazon.com: 20 Ft Split Loom 1/4" 1/2" 3/4" Black Wire Harness Wrap Cover Sleeve Conduit: Home Improvement ½ diameter is fine. Only need about 15 feet.

Wire Tap - Qibaok 240 PCS T-Tap Wire Connectors Self-Stripping Quick Splice Electrical Terminals and Nylon Insulated Male Quick Disconnect Spade Terminals Kit: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific I was not crazy about these but I used them and it worked. Only use the 18-22 gauge tape. Realistically, you only need about 5 which accounts for mistakes. I did not raise my car so I broke two tapping into the reverse light.

Metal wire Tires - https://www.amazon.com/HS-Stainless-Self-Locking-Juncture-Fastening/dp/B07P9NBHRC/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3EWHVHJG88A9B&dchild=1&keywords=metal+wire+ties&qid=1599149511&sprefix=metal+wire+ti,aps,138&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzMTZDRkFVNlVKSExNJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODE3MTA0UTBQVVgyMlo0M1Y4JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA5NTc5ODUzQUtGUVUwSE5YWTNYJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

I only used about 4.

I will post separate instruction about the process. As a quick summary to explain the parts, I tapped the reverse light and license plate light. I ran those wires to thermostat wire and ran it to the "bundle", which included the video and power wires. I wrapped the entire bundle in heat resistant tape and covered it with the wire loom. I followed an existing wire bundle on the left side of the engine, near the battery, to the glove box between the seats. I used the metal wire ties to attach my bundle to the existing bundle. I tried to stay as far away from the engine as possible to avoid as much heat as possible.

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Stevendesq

Discussion Starter · #2 · Sep 3, 2020

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Stevendesq

Discussion Starter · #3 · Sep 3, 2020

I will break down the installation into 3 sections. (1) trunk (2) center console (3) head unit.

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Stevendesq

Discussion Starter · #4 · Sep 3, 2020 (Edited)

TRUNK REMOVAL AND CAMERA INSTALL

Docron did a great job. I followed his instructions and I recently added how I removed the lift arm. Here is his post DIY: Trunk Removal

After removing the trunk, I did the following:

I removed the right license plate light. It was easy. Access it from the trunk and you will notice a metal retaining clip on the right side. Press the clip with a screw driver and the unit falls down. Take the bulb out of the housing and install it in the camera housing. Tap the yellow/red wire and connect that green thermostat wire. You will eventually connect to the “ILLUM” wire on Joying (it is orange and white – not labeled). This will tell your Joying unit that you turned on headlights because it is dark. Joying will then dim the screen.
This part was a bitch because I refused to lift the car. I suggest that you park perpendicular to a curb with the ass over the street to give you more access. If you have a lift or raise the car this would be easy. I unscrewed both reverse lights, freeing them from the housing. I found that the reverse light on the right had more slack so I used that one. I taped the green/grey wire and connected it to red wire attached to the video cable. This will eventually attach to “BACK” (orange wire that is labeled “BACK”). This is absolutely necessary because it will the Joying unit to display the camera when you press reverse. Screw the reverse lights back into the housing.
^^^^ I did that with the car on flat ground. I was on my back with both hands/arms under the car. There was very little space to work if the car is not elevated.
I attached the red power wire for the camera to the red thermostat wire. I attached the black camera power wire to the white thermostat wire. (Thermostat wire contains three internal wires red, white and green)

Later in the process:
RED will go to Joying “ACC” – camera will only receive power when key is turned
WHITE will go to Joying “GND”
GREEN will go to Joying “ILLUM” see above.

Once all wires and connections were secure (soldered and wired tied down) I wrapped the bundle (consisting of video wire and thermostat wire in heat resistant tape. I must have wrapped a 15-foot length. I then reassembled the trunk, leaving the weather stripping and black trim off. The “bundle” was in the trim space and sitting inside the trunk.
I stopped for a beer and picked up this project the next day. I will post pictures tonight for each step then discuss the next part.

FOR ALL WIRE TAPS I used blue (gauge 18-22).

I did a terrible job photographing so I will recycle the photographs that guided me.

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Stevendesq

Discussion Starter · #5 · Sep 3, 2020 (Edited)

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Stevendesq

Discussion Starter · #6 · Sep 3, 2020

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Stevendesq

Discussion Starter · #7 · Sep 3, 2020

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Stevendesq

Discussion Starter · #8 · Sep 3, 2020

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Stevendesq

Discussion Starter · #9 · Sep 3, 2020

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Stevendesq

Discussion Starter · #10 · Sep 4, 2020

Part 2

I did not want to drill into through the carbon tube or lift the car so I researched how to run the wire bundle to the radio. I covered the wire bundle with the wire loom and removed the cubby box. Picture of box below.

There are four screws and the box comes out. You should be able to see light when you look into the opening. I ran a guide wire into the engine bay.

Run the wire bundle through the bay. Below is a picture of the route I took. I followed other wire bundles so I could secure the camera/thermostat wire to them. I taped the camera/thermostat wires to my guide wire then pulled them through the cubby hole.

I finished resembling the truck and was finished with the rear of the car.

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Stevendesq

Discussion Starter · #11 · Sep 4, 2020

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Chosen_S

· #12 · Sep 4, 2020

Keep it going! I’m watching and learning with anticipation

All of mine is installed, but I really need to reinstall my reverse camera wiring, someone did it before me and made everything way too short and tight.
I also have static in my reverse camera image. I don’t know if that’s typical for everyone or not

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hugof

· #13 · Nov 11, 2020

I just did this yesterday with the Joying camera, some notes:

I pulled the rubber surround, and unscrewed the right hand side bit of plastic that bridges the trunk liner to the bodywork
There's a small hole that is then visible from above right at back right corner of the trunk liner. It's actually right above the tap point for the reversing light. Annotating @Stevendesq 's photo:

This is nice because then there are no long wire runs in hot areas near the exhaust.
I decided to mount the camera at the top middle part of the mesh, vs drilling the bodywork. If I ever get a center exhaust, I'll have to change this
It'll likely pick up a lot more dirt, but my car is mostly only driven when it's nice weather anyway
Camera is held to the mesh with 4 small zip-ties and seems pretty secure.
If you remove the silver clips that hold the top edge of the mesh in place, you can slip the camera connectors through one at a time
The wires from the camera (2.1mm DC jack, RCA video) will fit through this hole one at a time. I taped the connections up and pushed them through here.
Front to back run was done via the storage box hole - I went to the left then after removing the engine cover (it just pops off) I could see the wire in the engine bay and fished it out
Not totally happy with the run from near the fuel filler to the back frame, but will get some self-adhesive cable tie anchors to tidy it soon.
Interior run was just removing the center console which was relatively painless

Doing this from underneath is pretty easy, but you need to remove the diffuser (don't undo the 10mm nuts, just the 2 screws on each vertical inner edge, the 4 screws on the front edge, and the 5 on the rear edge. You then have plenty of room to get both arms up under the car to tap the reversing light etc.

Big thanks to everyone on this thread and the other camera/joying threads, it's really great to be following a well worn path

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