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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,

I am trying to replace my rear wheel bearings and have ran into a couple snags. I figure there must be tools for this, but I can’t seem to find them.
1) the wheel hub nut is 36mm. There is very little clearance between the nut and the hub, and I can’t seem to find a socket that is thin enough to fit over the nut and through the hub. What do you all use?
2) the nut is locked in place by what looks to be some kind of a heavy duty crimp. I’m not sure sure what the best tool is to un-crimp it - maybe a thin air chisel? Thoughts?
3) how do I crimp the new nut? I don’t see any notches in it to make this simple, so I just need a pretty insane tool that cuts the new nut?

thanks,
Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Hmm, I found this video - it's for a 147, but it looks like much the same setup as our cars.
Looks like a simple screwdriver/chisel and hammer is enough to punch the nut (see 10:50). I think I'm going to take the 36mm socket I bought and put it on a lathe to thin it down. Will report back on how it goes over the next week.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
All,
over the weekend, I did the bearing replacement. From how it went for me, I can say that there is virtually no way one can do this unless they have access to a press (I tried a slide hammer and fixture and the car just laughed at me). Luckily, harbor freight has a pretty cheap and compact one available.
the bearings are pressed ridiculously tight. Even if you get the old one off (I had to press it off and then dremel the inner race), pressing the new one in also requires the use of a press.
I didn’t take as many pics as I should have, but I’ll try to post instructions in the best week or so for those who want to do this themselves.
 

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Whoa! I hope you didn't re-use your hub. If you are replacing due to track use, you should always replace both the bearing and the hub. Cracked hubs can get ugly fast!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That so?? Shoot, yeah I reused the hub. It didn’t look worn near as I could tell... can others please confirm that this is a necessity? I’d have to start all over with the procedure if so
 

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Depends. For street use I wouldn't worry at all -- you should be well under the steel's endurance limit. For track use with sticky rubber they will fatigue. They'll look perfectly fine . . . until they crack. In fact, I'm replacing some rear bearings and hubs on a track Miata right now. It's a consumable.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have 17k miles on my car. I do have about 20 track days on it on RE71 rubber. I feel like they should last longer than that?

also, thank you very much for educating me (and I’m sure others) on this.
 

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Well, it could be worse: I'm looking at bearing replacement at 3k miles, 5 track days. But my home track does have a Karussell replica...

110672


Any big tips for a fellow DIY-er?
 

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I know several people with Alfa Romeo 4C could have had wheel bearings go bad. It's absolutely ridiculous as some of these cars don't even have 10,000 miles on them before they had to be replaced and I'm not talking about people that track their cars just normal people driving it on the weekends. I will say that the only cars that I know that it had to have the wheel bearings replaced we're early 2015 I don't know anyone that's had a 16 17 18 yet that's had to replace
 

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@kennebraun - Just trying to understand what you replaced, because I'm looking to replace the parts too...

This is the rear bearing, Moapar Part # 68239983AA.
110688


I'm not 100% on the rear hub number, Can anyone confirm it is 68201078AA? There seems to be a hub, bearing, and sensor all in one, but it seems to be 2x the price of the individual parts.
 

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@DrPyro2k Tracking is expensive isn't it? Only the front is one combined hub/bearing... Here's what I am getting quotes on - I think we just need to replace hub/bearing/nut, but got the whole picture.

Front

NoTitleU.S. PartEU Part Dealer A
1​
HUB68305460AA
51754196​
161​
2​
NUT6509738-AA
7556102​
5​
3​
SPACER68081750AA
46422765​
16​
4​
CUP68082464AB
7688978​
4​
5​
PLANE WASHER6509736-AA
7568587​
41​

110700


Rear
NoTitleU.S. PartEU PartDealer A
1​
HUB68201078AA
51914187​
101​
2​
NUT6509898-AA
51806635​
21​
3​
SCREW8239995AA
51930035​
11​
4​
BEARING68239983AA
51930387​
204​


110699


Time to keep our local dealers in business!
 

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@4corgis - HUGE Thanks on the part number!!!
 

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@4corgis - I really don't like going to the dealer for parts. Last time I did, it was 2x the price that I could find online. I did a quick survey of those part numbers and online prices are about 1/2 of those you listed...

Front
NoTitleU.S. PartFactoryMoparDirect.com
1​
HUB68305460AA
85.56/each​
2​
NUT6509738-AA
2.68/each​
3​
SPACER68081750AA
6.65/each​
4​
CUP68082464AB
2.01/each​
5​
PLANE WASHER6509736-AA
17.63/each​
 
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@4corgis - I really don't like going to the dealer for parts. Last time I did, it was 2x the price that I could find online. I did a quick survey of those part numbers and online prices are about 1/2 of those you listed...
Ah! My mistake was looking up the most expensive part first - you might not have 68239983AA in stock with US part no, use EU and it might be cheaper to ship it overseas, depending on duty amounts: 51930387

Updated original post.
 

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I was just going to say I have trouble with two of those parts being discontinuted...

3​
SCREW68239995AA
4​
BEARING68239983AA

I ended up getting everything except those two parts from RockAuto and FactoryMoparDirect.com to do both the front and rear.
 

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6 weeks ago I got a rear hub, bearing and nut from the UK in 3 days for $225 shipped. Dealer was going to be 3 weeks and $315.50.

I ended up not needing them. I am getting ready to move and they are not in my garage. Must be in my storage unit so can't get any more info.

Jeff
 
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