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@Jwdm - Who did you get them from?
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Sorry for being late to the party, @DrPyro2k. I bought the bearing from Alfissimo: Alfa Romeo 4C Wheel Bearing-Rear

Again, you'll definitely need a press to do the job. The bearings and hubs come off the car pretty easily, but you'll then have to press the bearings off. They'll almost certainly break, so you'll then have to carefully Dremel a notch into the inner race and then chisel it to split it off the hub. Not as hard as it sounds as long as you take it slow and careful.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
@4corgis: Summit is my home track! I've only had the chance to run Shen in my FD RX7, but I run Summit Main all the time with my 4C. Shen's like a high speed autocross - such a great time!
 

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@Jwdm - Who did you get them from?
I got them through Matt at Alfa 9 Supply. Not sure if they came from Alfa Workshop, but they did come from Europe or UK.. Went straight to shop at track. Did not need them and now I don't know where they are. I am in the process of moving and they might be in my storage unit. I will be heading there again today.

Jeff
 

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DryPyro2k, hub, bearings and end nut came from Alfa Workshop. Did you get what you needed?

Jeff
 

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@Jwdm - Sorta... I'm still searching for the best price for those hubs & Bearings. I have a very hard time accepting that AR used a custom part for the 4C on a very common part. I'm also calling my local dealership to find out if they updated the part number and local pricing...
 

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ARGH...I'm having a heck of a time getting the rear bearing. Not sure what is up, but hopefully it is "only" a COVID issue and not going to be a hard to get part in the future....
 

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Perhaps call me a cheap b*stard, but Jamie @ Alfaworks is $265 (2 bearings & shipping) and alfissimo is $340 for 2 + shipping and not listed as "in stock", just "orderable"...... I COULD order from the dealer, but it is "special order" and way more expensive too (and not quick)
 
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Well, Jamie surprised me and got both bearings to me this time...

After fighting and cursing (almost as much as the catalyst heat shield), I was able to get the rear axel bolt off. My 36mm Craftsman socket was just too "fat" to fit between the hub and nut. I ended up getting a "cheap" thin wall 36mm impact socket that was barely small enough to fit (some extra file work helped a touch).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08JSNB18P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For the Europeans, there is a "modified" tool that you can get cheapish that should work better. Apparently the Laser 6279 Hub Nut Socket has been turned down some to allow a better fit. I have ordered it, so we shall see for the next time.

The other tool that I needed was a beefy electric impact wrench to get the nut out. It was stubborn for sure!

112758
 
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Discussion Starter #32
Remember to use an air hammer to dimple the nut into the rod channels - don’t want it backing off on you!

and yeah - I had to turn down a socket on a lathe to get it to fit. Very tight clearances.
 

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@kennebraun - Yeah, I don't have a lathe (or access to one anymore), so it was a real pain for me... The OEM used some kind of crimp tool to "cut" the nut and bend it inwards. I know that the DIY crowd often use a hammer and chisel, but don't like that approach. I DO have to crimp it, the photo was taken before fully torqueing the nut.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
For sure. I found an air chisel worked well, but understand the hesitation. Main thing is to secure it in some way because the torque alone won’t necessarily hold it in place.
 

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Now that the job is done, I will say this. One, it isn't actually too hard to do. You don't need a lift, just an impact wrench with "thin wall" 36mm socket, 350 Nm torque wrench, and a few standard tools. Second, it NEEDS done every few years if you track your car. My primary track is CW direction and even now I can tell you which bearing was on the driver side. It is stiffer to rotate than the right side. Both are considerably "stiffer" to rotate than the new ones, so I'm VERY glad I changed them. For me, a 2 to 3 year replace cycle is probably about right.
 

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Now that the job is done, I will say this. One, it isn't actually too hard to do. You don't need a lift, just an impact wrench with "thin wall" 36mm socket, 350 Nm torque wrench, and a few standard tools. Second, it NEEDS done every few years if you track your car. My primary track is CW direction and even now I can tell you which bearing was on the driver side. It is stiffer to rotate than the right side. Both are considerably "stiffer" to rotate than the new ones, so I'm VERY glad I changed them. For me, a 2 to 3 year replace cycle is probably about right.
...awesome. It's just money.💸

Dr. Pyro, thanks for sharing, as you know.
 

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LOL... I try and tell my wife that all of the time to justify my car fetish. I also tell her that me having a car mistress is cheaper than a real mistress.
 
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I’m replacing my rear wheel hub. Would some please provide the torque spec for the rear hub nut?
Thanks,

Shawn
 

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@Shawn - Here is what is in the manual for tightening the wheel hub center bolt

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