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My car won’t be used on the track ever, but I do have some pretty poor roads in Sydney ! So I feel the bumps and humps a lot

In my humble opinion, save your $ and don't upgrade. Even the road springs are stiffer than any of the aftermarket shocks. The 4C will never be a crappy road car, regardless if you put $2k or $10k worth of shocks in it. Plus you need adjustable end-links at the minimum or full adjustable swaybars with any new shock system. It simply isn't worth the cash flow if it will never see a track.

Chris Harris just had a nice piece on the latest Top Gear Episode comparing the new Focus ST and a Lambo Aventador on British B roads. As we can all guess his conclusion, for 90% of the roads, a high horse powered sports car is overkill and sucks most of the time. Something cheap, good enough suspension (designed for road), and good enough power, will be far more enjoyable than the Lambo most (if not all) of the time.
 

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In my humble opinion, save your $ and don't upgrade. Even the road springs are stiffer than any of the aftermarket shocks. The 4C will never be a crappy road car, regardless if you put $2k or $10k worth of shocks in it. Plus you need adjustable end-links at the minimum or full adjustable swaybars with any new shock system. It simply isn't worth the cash flow if it will never see a track.

Chris Harris just had a nice piece on the latest Top Gear Episode comparing the new Focus ST and a Lambo Aventador on British B roads. As we can all guess his conclusion, for 90% of the roads, a high horse powered sports car is overkill and sucks most of the time. Something cheap, good enough suspension (designed for road), and good enough power, will be far more enjoyable than the Lambo most (if not all) of the time.
You make a very good point. I only really drive this car in the canyons spiritedly, I have not done any mods whatsoever and I gotta say it’s the first sports vehicle I’ve owned that comes perfect out of the box. At this point I may just change the tires to something better but even the Pirellis seem good to me.

I messed around upgrading suspension on other cars and it was like going down a rabbit hole. I was never completely satisfied, it was a pain in the ass to dial in and it was expensive. I’m glad the 4c is good AS IS.
 

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In my humble opinion, save your $ and don't upgrade. Even the road springs are stiffer than any of the aftermarket shocks. The 4C will never be a crappy road car, regardless if you put $2k or $10k worth of shocks in it. Plus you need adjustable end-links at the minimum or full adjustable swaybars with any new shock system. It simply isn't worth the cash flow if it will never see a track.



Chris Harris just had a nice piece on the latest Top Gear Episode comparing the new Focus ST and a Lambo Aventador on British B roads. As we can all guess his conclusion, for 90% of the roads, a high horse powered sports car is overkill and sucks most of the time. Something cheap, good enough suspension (designed for road), and good enough power, will be far more enjoyable than the Lambo most (if not all) of the time.


Answered it perfectly ! Saved me a few thousand appreciate it.. as for the tram lining
I’ve read mixed reviews on ways to fix or improve that ?

Best ideas ?


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Answered it perfectly ! Saved me a few thousand appreciate it.. as for the tram lining
I’ve read mixed reviews on ways to fix or improve that ?

Best ideas ?


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Decent tyres (Michelins), a good alignment (zero front toe for me) then if you’re still not happy, Jamies’ blocks.
 

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Answered it perfectly ! Saved me a few thousand appreciate it.. as for the tram lining
I’ve read mixed reviews on ways to fix or improve that ?
Best ideas ?

@Alfanut gave a good recommendation. The Alfaworks alignment does 2 key things. 1) Increases the Caster. In very simplistic terms, the caster impacts how quickly the steering responds both road imperfections and steering input. In more technical terms, Positive caster creates a lot of align torque (the force that straightens the steering wheel when you go forward) which improves straight line stability of the car. Race cars typically run 5 to 6 degrees of caster (or more). 2) Alters Toe. The OEM specifications called for the front tires to be pointed out (toe-out). Moving the car to closer to Zero Toe, or even a slight Toe-IN will help reduce the tram-lining.

The Toe-In can easily be done my any alignment shop. If that doesn't fix the issue, then Alfa Works spacers to change the Caster, would be the next logical step. It has also noted the PZero OEM tires tend to tramline more than some other brands. I haven't tried enough different brands to say which is best. I even still run the OEM PZero's on one set of rims. I have the Alfaworks alignment blocks, and any remaining tramlining doesn't bother me much (I expect some, so I just drive accordingly)
 

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Appreciate the feedback I’m having my service soon and they said they will give me a new alignment said to fix 70% of the steering issue

Will judge from that and then see if we move to roadblocks


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Discussion Starter #47
@Alfanut gave a good recommendation. The Alfaworks alignment does 2 key things. 1) Increases the Caster. In very simplistic terms, the caster impacts how quickly the steering responds both road imperfections and steering input. In more technical terms, Positive caster creates a lot of align torque (the force that straightens the steering wheel when you go forward) which improves straight line stability of the car. Race cars typically run 5 to 6 degrees of caster (or more). 2) Alters Toe. The OEM specifications called for the front tires to be pointed out (toe-out). Moving the car to closer to Zero Toe, or even a slight Toe-IN will help reduce the tram-lining.

The Toe-In can easily be done my any alignment shop. If that doesn't fix the issue, then Alfa Works spacers to change the Caster, would be the next logical step. It has also noted the PZero OEM tires tend to tramline more than some other brands. I haven't tried enough different brands to say which is best. I even still run the OEM PZero's on one set of rims. I have the Alfaworks alignment blocks, and any remaining tramlining doesn't bother me much (I expect some, so I just drive accordingly)
I changed front tyres from Pirelli 205/40R18 to YOKO AD08R 215/40R18 and tram lining was already improved with that
with change to intermediate spacers and small toe out, it did remove completely issues ! its so good now, but adds more forces to steer
 

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In my humble opinion, save your $ and don't upgrade. Even the road springs are stiffer than any of the aftermarket shocks.
The 4C will never be a crappy road car, regardless if you put $2k or $10k worth of shocks in it.
This is not true - most coilovers for 4c have stiffer springs than OEM.
Aftermarket shocks are much better tuned than stock ones - so you get with good coilovers less body roll/dive/squat AND better compliance at bad roads.

The stock suspension has the worst tuning possible - a stiff ride BUT lot of body roll.
Good setup should be exactly the opposite - little body roll but good compliance.
 

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This is not true - most coilovers for 4c have stiffer springs than OEM.
Aftermarket shocks are much better tuned than stock ones - so you get with good coilovers less body roll/dive/squat AND better compliance at bad roads.

The stock suspension has the worst tuning possible - a stiff ride BUT lot of body roll.
Good setup should be exactly the opposite - little body roll but good compliance.
I agree 100%. Before doing anyone on the 4C, I'd say upgrade the suspension and Brakes (sts brake lines and tarox or equivalent disc and better pads). Motor comes last. BTW, I don't practice what I preach so I did the opposite.
 

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@Croc and @Nimo - Sorry I didn't proof read before sending. What I meant to say was that the OEM suspension has significantly softer springs than any aftermarket version (even with "road" springs). I do understand your point that you will get a far more advanced damping than the OEM version. But, my point is that even with an aftermarket suspension, it is not going to miraculously be a smooth riding GT car. The 4C is a sports car in it truest sense. I tried to go down that path when I purchased the 4C as my wife complained it was too harsh/raw. I found that I spent a bunch of $ and could never get her to be that happy riding in the car. It is all about driver/passenger perceptions and reference points.... If the OP thinks it will solve his issue, has moderate expectations, and willing to spend $2500 + adjustable endlinks ($200) + Installation (Alignment + corner balance), then he I think he could be happy (otherwise, he probably wont)...
 

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Thanks for the clarification - now it's clear.
From what i see with my coilovers - the ride is much better than stock "non sport" suspension.
At ~50% between softest and stiffest shock setting it glides much smoother over the road, soacking dips and bumps quite good and with significantly less jiggling over "not perfectly smooth" pavement.

Springs i have are double the stiffness over OEM + i have stiffer sways.
From my former experience with previous cars if you'd ask me to predict I would say this would be a disaster and at high speeds the car would launch over bumps to the air with all 4 wheels - but somehow on this light car it works.
 

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Croc - what aftermarket coilovers are you running? Brand and model, please. BTW, there is another Croc who is a senior member of the USA7s forum - are you he???

Early on, I upgraded my swaybars and more, but am required to perform some of the upgrades again do to a recent accident. I am looking to replace both the bars and coilovers in my 4C. The only swaybar kit I can find is Alfa9's sourced from Kansai Racing in Japan. Unlike Inokinetic's earlier offering (they are currently out of inventory), the Kansai bars do not include upgraded heims and links. The coilovers I am favoring are Inokinetics Nitron, either R1 or R3. I don't mind a somewhat stiffer ride if the car handles better at the limits. Are there other opinions out there regarding sways and coilovers???
 

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My coilovers are Novitec Coilover Suspension Kit 'Corse+ Black Series',
Sways are Kansai - those are perfect.
Endlinks are from Inokinetic - but they're not must, i used front OEM for over a year, rear OEM probably also can be used my car just didn't have them and i had to buy so i went for InoKinetic.
 
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