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You guys are brave if you're using these.

Just removed another one of these from a friend's S2000. The valve threads were not very well cut, so they screwed up the oil pan's threads when being installed. Then the thing started to seep at high oil temps (track car) -- so it was removed. While removing, the valve kept some of the pan's threads... requiring a new pan.

I'd use one of these on maybe an air compressor, or something that isn't likely to be clipped by road debris or cause a ton of damage when it fails -- certainly not on a $60K car.
 

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it is shielded by the rear large deflector plate which is contiguous with the textile aero pieces underneath the car.
I agree with the potential of being careful with the threading and using the OEM neoprene washer.
 

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The threading comment is just silly. Anyone that has any idea of what they are doing can tell within the first quarter to half turn if something is being cross threaded or not. You'd feel the resistance/un-eveness immediately. Also, the quality of these valves is pretty high-end and I'll say it again, there's no way this thing will "accidentally" open. The valve tension is enough that it requires some physical effort to turn and would in no way be opened through road vibration, etc.
 

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I thought it may be of benefit to share my diy oil change experience and installation of Stahlbus oil drain plug, M18X1.5 pitch; this is the correct thread size as listed in Alfa Work website, not M22X 1.5. The drain plug fits well and come with a protective cap. To drain just simply push in the male part of hose connector and make a quick turn. I was worrying about the way the drain plug is recessed into the oil pan but installed Stahlbus drain valve is easily accessible. The flange of drain valve is narrower than the factory drain plug but it seems just wide enough to cover the built-in rubber oil ring of the OEM washer. Torque the valve to 20 NM or 15 lb ft and no leaks so far.

Attached are pictures for references.
 

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I'm bumping this old thread to thank 86GTV6 for his post above re the Stahlbus drain valves.

I have used Fumoto valves on all of my cars for many years. It makes draining oil into a completely drip-free process; you could do it in your den without worrying about staining the carpet. They're a quality item, they'll last a lot longer than whatever engine they attach to, and they will not leak in a million years of vibrations. (It's always funny to see the invariable objections on the internet from people who've never seen one.)

The problem with the Fumoto for the 4C is the deep recess on the oil pan, as noted above. I see someone above got a machine shop to fabricate a spacer -- you could do the same thing at home with a short piece of stock, a drill press and a pair of taps. But even though it would probably be ok to have the Fumoto hung off a relatively long spacer like that, I wasn't completely comfortable with the idea.

Along comes post 24 above. I have to admit I had never heard of Stahlbus, but after reading 86GTV6's post I did some further internetting. It sure looks to me that, although it's just slightly less convenient than a Fumoto for me (you have to keep track of the special fitting that goes in the drain hose), it's a perfect solution for the 4C's peculiar drain plug placement.

Thanks again 86GTV6. Excellent!
 

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I thought it may be of benefit to share my diy oil change experience and installation of Stahlbus oil drain plug, M18X1.5 pitch; this is the correct thread size as listed in Alfa Work website, not M22X 1.5. The drain plug fits well and come with a protective cap. To drain just simply push in the male part of hose connector and make a quick turn. I was worrying about the way the drain plug is recessed into the oil pan but installed Stahlbus drain valve is easily accessible. The flange of drain valve is narrower than the factory drain plug but it seems just wide enough to cover the built-in rubber oil ring of the OEM washer. Torque the valve to 20 NM or 15 lb ft and no leaks so far.

Attached are pictures for references.
Thanks 86! I have used similar NoSpillSystems/FEMCO oil drain valves/drainers on other cars but like this a bit better since it is just a quarter turn, the NSS drainer screws on just like the cover and takes a while in tight spots like we have with the Alfa. Installing my Stahlbus today :grin2:
 

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Thanks @86GTV6! I ordered from Amazon, will install when I flush the oil again (which is in about 1-2 more track event). As I noted before I have used Futomo plugs for YEARS and love them for simplicity. The 4C is a pain as it tends to drain all over cross members.
 

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I thought it may be of benefit to share my diy oil change experience and installation of Stahlbus oil drain plug, M18X1.5 pitch; this is the correct thread size as listed in Alfa Work website, not M22X 1.5. The drain plug fits well and come with a protective cap. To drain just simply push in the male part of hose connector and make a quick turn. I was worrying about the way the drain plug is recessed into the oil pan but installed Stahlbus drain valve is easily accessible. The flange of drain valve is narrower than the factory drain plug but it seems just wide enough to cover the built-in rubber oil ring of the OEM washer. Torque the valve to 20 NM or 15 lb ft and no leaks so far.

Attached are pictures for references.


Which thread and pitch is correct?

Thank you.




2016 4c Coupe
1993 Spider Veloce
 
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