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Oil drain plug

12K views 31 replies 17 participants last post by  kevinl 
#1 ·
Someone told me that they saw a universal oil drain plug that could possibly fit our cars on 4Cfanatics on Facebook's. This plug as it was explained to me would replace our plug and it has a on and off valve built into it. This would eliminate the need to replace the seal as you never take oil plug out as well. Does anyone know anything about this or have any experience with this?
 
#2 ·
Fumoto drain....needs an extension though.
Has on/off spigot and can connect a silicone hose to nipple.
 
#3 ·
For anyone that has actually seen the position and access to our drain plug, I'd argue this is a must. Otherwise, it's a constant battle of wiping suspension pieces of the spilled oil when you drain it. I know some people don't care about a little oil residue, but I'm not in that camp. That engine bay has to be spotless. Otherwise, how would you ever know if you have an actual leak!
 
#4 ·
i haven't changed my oil myself yet...first one was on the dealer. I do recall a previous post that mentioned the trick is to not completely remove the drain plug....it will start draining before completely removed. I am wondering if you could slip a length of hose over that plug to than route the oil into the drain pan and away from everything else. For those that have done their own oil change....what is that plug like....is it a drain tap that drains through the center of the bolt when loosened or just a simple threaded plug?
 
#6 ·
Here's the post I made some time ago on the oil change:

http://4c-forums.com/16-engine-technical/18386-diy-oil-change.html

The (factory) plug is hollow, with a hole through the side. So, initially you loosen it and let most of the oil drain through it, this minimizes the mess. Especially if you use something like this ...

https://www.amazon.com/Form-Funnel-...id=1488166370&sr=8-1&keywords=moldable+funnel

Once most of the oil has drained, remove the plug and let the last bit of oil drain. Not much of a mess really, and what little mess there is, is easily cleaned up.

Due to the design of the drain plug, I'm not sure how well slipping some tubing over it would work, try it and let us know:wink2:

Also, due to the design of the sealing washer on the drain plug I'm confident that it can be re-used at least a few times before needing to be replaced.

Personally I'd be concerned about using some sort of valve for fear of it opening due to vibration and/or voiding the warranty should something untoward happen ...
 
#7 ·
I've used these valves on other cars and I can tell you no vibration will inadvertently open the valve. Now as far as the mess, its disgusting! In your own pics you see part of the trailing arm soaked in oil. I've done it, and if you want the engine bay clean, the clean up (to my standards), is a pain in the ass. This valve gives you the ability to slip a hose on and drain the oil in a super easy manner with no clean-up needed other than a wipe of the residue left on the end when you pop the hose off.
 
#9 ·
Actually, you do know. It's the foldable funnel thing you recommended. However, I still spray with degreaser afterwards and hose down while I have the car up and still have easy access. After letting the car warm-up, everything evaporates and it's like the car just rolled off the assembly line!
 
#10 · (Edited)
So what stops the spigot from eventually vibrating open and depositing all that life-giving engine oil over the road? I'm used to dropping the sump when changing the oil filter on my Guzzi's so loosening a drain plug is hardly an issue. The spigot plug sounds to me like one more thing that can go wrong.
 
#11 ·
#12 ·
I have run the Fumoto on 3 of my cars (not the Alfa yet, but likely will). There is really 2 reason why I get them for all of my cars. 1) Makes changing oil much cleaner and quicker 2) Don't have to worry about stripping drain threads. My drain pan got stripped on an old Acura (aluminium pan), damn thing cost me $400 to replace. $20 for a drain is WELL worth it!

I don't ever think vibration, even on the track, will result in opening the valve. The pressure needed to turn the valve is quite "strong" and you have to lift the lever (spring loaded) past a locking mechanism to even rotate. The real risk, IMHO, is on certain cars where the plug may stick below the drain pan, you can potentially rip it off if you hit something large in the road.
 
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#13 ·
this is my fear of it sticking out too much and catching on something as well....highly unlikely but still a consideration. ;)
 
#14 ·
I've had a Fumoto valve on a diesel-engined generator set for over 7000 hours. No problems. Of course, it is stationary so there is no danger of the valve striking something. The diesel engine also shuts down automatically if it loses oil pressure. Both those features, or lack thereof, are relevant to the several low-slung sports cars I've owned over the years and are why I haven't/don't use a Fumoto on them.
 
#17 ·
Use one of these on my old 911, if that thing can't vibrate it loose nothing will - and it's pretty much at the lowest point of the car, never had an issue. It's a bit like the quick bleed valves on brake calipers, you either trust them or fear them - me, I'm all for an easy life!
 
#18 ·
Looked under the car, will need a ~2 1/4" extension before valve to clear oil pan channel.
Btw, per Fumoto's website, the correct valve model number is the FG7BNS which is M22-1.5 thread pitch.

They do have it on Amazon but it is $38 (vs. $24 for the other sized oil drain valves)
Will ask my fabricator to see if he can quickly make an extension for me.
 
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#20 ·
talked to my fabricator this morning....
He will be making a brass extension prototype for the Fumoto in M22-1.5 in length of about 2.25" to clear the oil pan channel sometime this week.


He said it would probably be around $20 plus shipping.
 
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#21 ·
You guys are brave if you're using these.

Just removed another one of these from a friend's S2000. The valve threads were not very well cut, so they screwed up the oil pan's threads when being installed. Then the thing started to seep at high oil temps (track car) -- so it was removed. While removing, the valve kept some of the pan's threads... requiring a new pan.

I'd use one of these on maybe an air compressor, or something that isn't likely to be clipped by road debris or cause a ton of damage when it fails -- certainly not on a $60K car.
 
#22 ·
it is shielded by the rear large deflector plate which is contiguous with the textile aero pieces underneath the car.
I agree with the potential of being careful with the threading and using the OEM neoprene washer.
 
#23 ·
The threading comment is just silly. Anyone that has any idea of what they are doing can tell within the first quarter to half turn if something is being cross threaded or not. You'd feel the resistance/un-eveness immediately. Also, the quality of these valves is pretty high-end and I'll say it again, there's no way this thing will "accidentally" open. The valve tension is enough that it requires some physical effort to turn and would in no way be opened through road vibration, etc.
 
#24 ·
I thought it may be of benefit to share my diy oil change experience and installation of Stahlbus oil drain plug, M18X1.5 pitch; this is the correct thread size as listed in Alfa Work website, not M22X 1.5. The drain plug fits well and come with a protective cap. To drain just simply push in the male part of hose connector and make a quick turn. I was worrying about the way the drain plug is recessed into the oil pan but installed Stahlbus drain valve is easily accessible. The flange of drain valve is narrower than the factory drain plug but it seems just wide enough to cover the built-in rubber oil ring of the OEM washer. Torque the valve to 20 NM or 15 lb ft and no leaks so far.

Attached are pictures for references.
 

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#27 ·
Thanks 86! I have used similar NoSpillSystems/FEMCO oil drain valves/drainers on other cars but like this a bit better since it is just a quarter turn, the NSS drainer screws on just like the cover and takes a while in tight spots like we have with the Alfa. Installing my Stahlbus today :grin2:
 
#25 · (Edited by Moderator)
I'm bumping this old thread to thank 86GTV6 for his post above re the Stahlbus drain valves.

I have used Fumoto valves on all of my cars for many years. It makes draining oil into a completely drip-free process; you could do it in your den without worrying about staining the carpet. They're a quality item, they'll last a lot longer than whatever engine they attach to, and they will not leak in a million years of vibrations. (It's always funny to see the invariable objections on the internet from people who've never seen one.)

The problem with the Fumoto for the 4C is the deep recess on the oil pan, as noted above. I see someone above got a machine shop to fabricate a spacer -- you could do the same thing at home with a short piece of stock, a drill press and a pair of taps. But even though it would probably be ok to have the Fumoto hung off a relatively long spacer like that, I wasn't completely comfortable with the idea.

Along comes post 24 above. I have to admit I had never heard of Stahlbus, but after reading 86GTV6's post I did some further internetting. It sure looks to me that, although it's just slightly less convenient than a Fumoto for me (you have to keep track of the special fitting that goes in the drain hose), it's a perfect solution for the 4C's peculiar drain plug placement.

Thanks again 86GTV6. Excellent!
 
#28 ·
Thanks @86GTV6! I ordered from Amazon, will install when I flush the oil again (which is in about 1-2 more track event). As I noted before I have used Futomo plugs for YEARS and love them for simplicity. The 4C is a pain as it tends to drain all over cross members.
 
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