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Folks -


just returned from my local tire shop who performed the 12month / 12,000 mile bolt tightening procedure on my 2015 SE with 5,080 miles (12 months since purchase).


I was there and "assisted" - I know the owner - he has some very sharp techs working there.


1- Car was loaded onto their alignment lift - serves the same as the 4 post lift recommended by Alfa
2- lift points were spot on - I used rubber square pads under each of the 4 lift points (from home depot - used under large furniture (4x4 pads))
3- Here is the kicker - there is absolutely no need to remove the front bonnet - all bolts (except for 6) were torqued from under the car
4- 3 panels need to be removed under the car: rear aero (oil service access) / mid felt panel /front radiator aero panel.
5 - for the front suspension 2 suggestions: loosen the bolt holding the steering rack - allows for the rack to he moved out of the way to get to one of the upper frame bolts (cant get to it due to the rubber bellows from the rack being in the way)
Also undo and remove the upper and lower bolt holding the shock / spring assy - allows access to upper and lower control arm mounting bolts and the upper shock mounting bolts.
6- For the front inner chassis rails nuts / there is no need to remove the front bonnet. Remove the front radiator felt panel and then remove the shroud around the fans - (4 bolts) - easy access to inner front chassis bolts.
7- Finally - for access to the 2 top chassis bolts (right beneath the battery) - we removed the battery and tray - exposing those for easy torqueing.


total 5 hrs - $498.00 I think it can be done in less time given the hints above.




Cheers


Pietro
 

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Pietro, do you know if any bolts actually needed tightening? (I am thinking I may get away with not having the bolt tightening done for my first year, as will only have about 2000 miles.)
 

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6- For the front inner chassis rails nuts / there is no need to remove the front bonnet. Remove the front radiator felt panel and then remove the shroud around the fans - (4 bolts) - easy access to inner front chassis bolts.
I'm going to have to take a good look at what you're describing here next time I have my car on the lift. You were able to get a torque wrench on the bolts Without an extension through this method? It seems that you'd be really far away from them from what I remember. I don't suppose you took any pics?
 

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Now that I look at the diagrams again, I'm trying to think if I did any of them from the top other than the steering rack bolts, which as you said you may be able to get from the wheel well. I had the bonnet off to adjust the headlights so it was open already, but I can't really think of which ones would have required it to have been removed otherwise. I also removed the front undertray and radiator duct to get at some of them from underneath. I don't remember if I ended up doing all three from underneath or not.
 

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I took a look at my videos and i also did the inner-upper subframe bolts from the top - and they were tough to get at no matter how I tried. You were able to get on them from underneath? I tried but couldn't get any room to swing the torque wrench on either side. The drivers was worse than the passenger's side because of the brake lines.
 

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Definitely used extensions where necessary - for the front chassis rail bolts (the inside ones) you can get to those from the bottom after removing the front felt panel (of course) and the radiator fan shroud.


For the rear chassis rail bolts they were all available from the bottom panels and wheel wells (as you suggested in you write up) except for the 2 just below the battery - did those from the top (after removing battery and tray.


Cheers
Pietro
 

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Pietro, do you know if any bolts actually needed tightening? (I am thinking I may get away with not having the bolt tightening done for my first year, as will only have about 2000 miles.)
The tech loosed each one - and I must say that every time he did he looked at me as if to say " that was not on tight..." So since the torque values are not that high to begin with - I would highly recommend that you stick to the 12 month window (and not miles).


Cheers


Pietro
 

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Since a dealer asked for 1800 € for tightening the bolts, I'm considering doing it myself.
However, FCA Sweden states that any future warranty claims will be depending on however authorised service is done or not.

Are FCA Sweden right?
 

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Folks -


just returned from my local tire shop who performed the 12month / 12,000 mile bolt tightening procedure on my 2015 SE with 5,080 miles (12 months since purchase).


I was there and "assisted" - I know the owner - he has some very sharp techs working there.


1- Car was loaded onto their alignment lift - serves the same as the 4 post lift recommended by Alfa
2- lift points were spot on - I used rubber square pads under each of the 4 lift points (from home depot - used under large furniture (4x4 pads))
3- Here is the kicker - there is absolutely no need to remove the front bonnet - all bolts (except for 6) were torqued from under the car
4- 3 panels need to be removed under the car: rear aero (oil service access) / mid felt panel /front radiator aero panel.
5 - for the front suspension 2 suggestions: loosen the bolt holding the steering rack - allows for the rack to he moved out of the way to get to one of the upper frame bolts (cant get to it due to the rubber bellows from the rack being in the way)
Also undo and remove the upper and lower bolt holding the shock / spring assy - allows access to upper and lower control arm mounting bolts and the upper shock mounting bolts.
6- For the front inner chassis rails nuts / there is no need to remove the front bonnet. Remove the front radiator felt panel and then remove the shroud around the fans - (4 bolts) - easy access to inner front chassis bolts.
7- Finally - for access to the 2 top chassis bolts (right beneath the battery) - we removed the battery and tray - exposing those for easy torqueing.


total 5 hrs - $498.00 I think it can be done in less time given the hints above.




Cheers


Pietro

This sure seems like a lot more work then taking off the front hood panel and doing as per the repair instructions provided by Alfa. My tech has it down to about 4 hours.
 

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This sure seems like a lot more work then taking off the front hood panel and doing as per the repair instructions provided by Alfa. My tech has it down to about 4 hours.
My options in town were very limited - both Alfa dealers quoted me 2 days and $1900 - . Managed to do it in 5 hrs - first try. Might be able to hit 4hrs (in 2 yrs when its due again).


I was dreading having to remove the front hood - just added risk of scratching something.. Just wanted the DIY folks to know that there are different ways to skin this cat. The purpose of this maintenance is to apply the correct torque to the fasteners - mission accomplished.




Cheers


Pietro
 

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Since a dealer asked for 1800 € for tightening the bolts, I'm considering doing it myself.
However, FCA Sweden states that any future warranty claims will be depending on however authorised service is done or not.

Are FCA Sweden right?
Or do I dare tightening myself...? I do have the tools and the skills, but not the authorisation. :frown2:
 

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I got mine for free plus oil change as part of the 48.5k sell price.
Free Alfa Shirt too.
Darn you! You followed my negotiating advice with Glenwood, then you did me one better by getting a shirt! :wink2:

The tech at Glenwood (Ft. Wayne, IN) seemed really good to me. Did you get to talk to him? He really likes these cars.

In another two years, this will be DIY for me. Thanks for the discussion.
 

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I just had my 12 month/12,000 mile service done at my dealership in Spring, Texas...

2016 SE with no extra-cost options except black leather-trimmed bucket seats and leather-trimmed interior.

Odometer: 9415 miles, about 90% city driving, 10% highway, no track
Labor: 7.20 hours $1130.80
Air filter: $35.00
Bonnet seal: $112.97
"Shop supplies": $100.00
Total: $1378.77 before tax

No oil change as that had been done when the service indicator came on at 8327 miles. They obviously pulled the bonnet to do mine. The tech said none of the bolts were loose but he found bolts that attach the upper A-arms to the frame, and where the rear chassis attaches to the monocoque needed about 1/4 extra turn before the torque was within spec.
 

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Mine was done over the holiday break for $300 at the dealership in Fairview Heights, IL (St. Louis metro area). They got to it all from underneath on the lift and it took about 4 hrs. The car is as tight and solid as the day I drove it off the lot. :)
 

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Mine was done over the holiday break for $300 at the dealership in Fairview Heights, IL (St. Louis metro area). They got to it all from underneath on the lift and it took about 4 hrs. The car is as tight and solid as the day I drove it off the lot. :)


Perfect - that's more like it!


Cheers


Pietro
 
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