Alfa Romeo 4C Forums banner

One Year Service - Can we get a thread to compare our costs and experiences

99282 Views 440 Replies 112 Participants Last post by  foleydb
I just scheduled my one year service.

I have seen many posts on here from others who have had theirs. I have seen costs from $250 to $699 quoted.

My Service contact had no idea what to charge. He went and did two days research to figure out what he had to do and how much to charge for it.

In the end he described it as extensive, including removal of the bonnet. I told him that because of this forum I was aware of the extensive bolt tightening and untightening.

He then quoted me $853, which is by far the most I have seen on the forum so far.

I am going to give Alfa a call and complain - not on my poor service guy, but for the fact he was left to figure it all out by himself.

Before I do so, would love to collect your costs and experiences in one place to save the next ones of us who have to go through this the effort.

Additionally, I would like to have a more robust set of numbers to help me understand if my price quote is out of line or if other dealers are doing things differently.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
241 - 260 of 441 Posts
Folks -


just returned from my local tire shop who performed the 12month / 12,000 mile bolt tightening procedure on my 2015 SE with 5,080 miles (12 months since purchase).


I was there and "assisted" - I know the owner - he has some very sharp techs working there.


1- Car was loaded onto their alignment lift - serves the same as the 4 post lift recommended by Alfa
2- lift points were spot on - I used rubber square pads under each of the 4 lift points (from home depot - used under large furniture (4x4 pads))
3- Here is the kicker - there is absolutely no need to remove the front bonnet - all bolts (except for 6) were torqued from under the car
4- 3 panels need to be removed under the car: rear aero (oil service access) / mid felt panel /front radiator aero panel.
5 - for the front suspension 2 suggestions: loosen the bolt holding the steering rack - allows for the rack to he moved out of the way to get to one of the upper frame bolts (cant get to it due to the rubber bellows from the rack being in the way)
Also undo and remove the upper and lower bolt holding the shock / spring assy - allows access to upper and lower control arm mounting bolts and the upper shock mounting bolts.
6- For the front inner chassis rails nuts / there is no need to remove the front bonnet. Remove the front radiator felt panel and then remove the shroud around the fans - (4 bolts) - easy access to inner front chassis bolts.
7- Finally - for access to the 2 top chassis bolts (right beneath the battery) - we removed the battery and tray - exposing those for easy torqueing.


total 5 hrs - $498.00 I think it can be done in less time given the hints above.




Cheers


Pietro
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 5
Pietro, do you know if any bolts actually needed tightening? (I am thinking I may get away with not having the bolt tightening done for my first year, as will only have about 2000 miles.)
6- For the front inner chassis rails nuts / there is no need to remove the front bonnet. Remove the front radiator felt panel and then remove the shroud around the fans - (4 bolts) - easy access to inner front chassis bolts.
I'm going to have to take a good look at what you're describing here next time I have my car on the lift. You were able to get a torque wrench on the bolts Without an extension through this method? It seems that you'd be really far away from them from what I remember. I don't suppose you took any pics?
Now that I look at the diagrams again, I'm trying to think if I did any of them from the top other than the steering rack bolts, which as you said you may be able to get from the wheel well. I had the bonnet off to adjust the headlights so it was open already, but I can't really think of which ones would have required it to have been removed otherwise. I also removed the front undertray and radiator duct to get at some of them from underneath. I don't remember if I ended up doing all three from underneath or not.
I took a look at my videos and i also did the inner-upper subframe bolts from the top - and they were tough to get at no matter how I tried. You were able to get on them from underneath? I tried but couldn't get any room to swing the torque wrench on either side. The drivers was worse than the passenger's side because of the brake lines.
Definitely used extensions where necessary - for the front chassis rail bolts (the inside ones) you can get to those from the bottom after removing the front felt panel (of course) and the radiator fan shroud.


For the rear chassis rail bolts they were all available from the bottom panels and wheel wells (as you suggested in you write up) except for the 2 just below the battery - did those from the top (after removing battery and tray.


Cheers
Pietro
Pietro, do you know if any bolts actually needed tightening? (I am thinking I may get away with not having the bolt tightening done for my first year, as will only have about 2000 miles.)
The tech loosed each one - and I must say that every time he did he looked at me as if to say " that was not on tight..." So since the torque values are not that high to begin with - I would highly recommend that you stick to the 12 month window (and not miles).


Cheers


Pietro
Since a dealer asked for 1800 € for tightening the bolts, I'm considering doing it myself.
However, FCA Sweden states that any future warranty claims will be depending on however authorised service is done or not.

Are FCA Sweden right?
Folks -


just returned from my local tire shop who performed the 12month / 12,000 mile bolt tightening procedure on my 2015 SE with 5,080 miles (12 months since purchase).


I was there and "assisted" - I know the owner - he has some very sharp techs working there.


1- Car was loaded onto their alignment lift - serves the same as the 4 post lift recommended by Alfa
2- lift points were spot on - I used rubber square pads under each of the 4 lift points (from home depot - used under large furniture (4x4 pads))
3- Here is the kicker - there is absolutely no need to remove the front bonnet - all bolts (except for 6) were torqued from under the car
4- 3 panels need to be removed under the car: rear aero (oil service access) / mid felt panel /front radiator aero panel.
5 - for the front suspension 2 suggestions: loosen the bolt holding the steering rack - allows for the rack to he moved out of the way to get to one of the upper frame bolts (cant get to it due to the rubber bellows from the rack being in the way)
Also undo and remove the upper and lower bolt holding the shock / spring assy - allows access to upper and lower control arm mounting bolts and the upper shock mounting bolts.
6- For the front inner chassis rails nuts / there is no need to remove the front bonnet. Remove the front radiator felt panel and then remove the shroud around the fans - (4 bolts) - easy access to inner front chassis bolts.
7- Finally - for access to the 2 top chassis bolts (right beneath the battery) - we removed the battery and tray - exposing those for easy torqueing.


total 5 hrs - $498.00 I think it can be done in less time given the hints above.




Cheers


Pietro

This sure seems like a lot more work then taking off the front hood panel and doing as per the repair instructions provided by Alfa. My tech has it down to about 4 hours.
This sure seems like a lot more work then taking off the front hood panel and doing as per the repair instructions provided by Alfa. My tech has it down to about 4 hours.
My options in town were very limited - both Alfa dealers quoted me 2 days and $1900 - . Managed to do it in 5 hrs - first try. Might be able to hit 4hrs (in 2 yrs when its due again).


I was dreading having to remove the front hood - just added risk of scratching something.. Just wanted the DIY folks to know that there are different ways to skin this cat. The purpose of this maintenance is to apply the correct torque to the fasteners - mission accomplished.




Cheers


Pietro
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Alfa Romeo also estimates 7.2 hours for the first service including chassis work in Europe (as already stated here for the US).

The time specification comes directly from the manufacturer
I got mine for free plus oil change as part of the 48.5k sell price.
Free Alfa Shirt too.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
The tech loosed each one - and I must say that every time he did he looked at me as if to say " that was not on tight..." So since the torque values are not that high to begin with - I would highly recommend that you stick to the 12 month window (and not miles).


Cheers


Pietro

OK thanks. :|
Since a dealer asked for 1800 € for tightening the bolts, I'm considering doing it myself.
However, FCA Sweden states that any future warranty claims will be depending on however authorised service is done or not.

Are FCA Sweden right?
Or do I dare tightening myself...? I do have the tools and the skills, but not the authorisation. :frown2:
I got mine for free plus oil change as part of the 48.5k sell price.
Free Alfa Shirt too.
Darn you! You followed my negotiating advice with Glenwood, then you did me one better by getting a shirt! :wink2:

The tech at Glenwood (Ft. Wayne, IN) seemed really good to me. Did you get to talk to him? He really likes these cars.

In another two years, this will be DIY for me. Thanks for the discussion.
Didn't talk to him but sales did all the work and took a a few pictures..



While it was on the lift...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
See less See more
3
I just had my 12 month/12,000 mile service done at my dealership in Spring, Texas...

2016 SE with no extra-cost options except black leather-trimmed bucket seats and leather-trimmed interior.

Odometer: 9415 miles, about 90% city driving, 10% highway, no track
Labor: 7.20 hours $1130.80
Air filter: $35.00
Bonnet seal: $112.97
"Shop supplies": $100.00
Total: $1378.77 before tax

No oil change as that had been done when the service indicator came on at 8327 miles. They obviously pulled the bonnet to do mine. The tech said none of the bolts were loose but he found bolts that attach the upper A-arms to the frame, and where the rear chassis attaches to the monocoque needed about 1/4 extra turn before the torque was within spec.
See less See more
Mine was done over the holiday break for $300 at the dealership in Fairview Heights, IL (St. Louis metro area). They got to it all from underneath on the lift and it took about 4 hrs. The car is as tight and solid as the day I drove it off the lot. :)
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Mine was done over the holiday break for $300 at the dealership in Fairview Heights, IL (St. Louis metro area). They got to it all from underneath on the lift and it took about 4 hrs. The car is as tight and solid as the day I drove it off the lot. :)


Perfect - that's more like it!


Cheers


Pietro
241 - 260 of 441 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top