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Seat Elevation Adjustment

68433 Views 215 Replies 68 Participants Last post by  Anglospider
Today I raised the passenger seat up. It was easy for me to do. The only tool I needed was a T40 Torx. Torx was developed for robot assembly many years ago. Yes I spelled Torx correctly. It looks like an eight pointed star drive. I used a 3/8 breaker bar and Torx socket.

I removed the two bolts on the front of the seat rail. Then slid the seat forward and tilted it all the way and removed the two rear seat rail bolts.

There are two electrical connectors under the seat that I could not easily undo so I left the seat in the car and rolled it around gently to get to the side bolts. The seat weighs nothing and was easy to work with alone.

I did one side at a time, removing the three bolts, moving the side bar and replacing the bolts.

There is one locating pin for the seat rail as you put the seat back down and bolt in in. I did the rear bolts first and the front bolts last.

There is no room under the seat for an amp or anything as the seat almost touches the floor. I could not get my hand under it while in the lowest position.

The elevation holes are 3/4 inch apart for a total change of 1 1/2 inch.

The seat at it's lowest elevation.

The seat at it's highest elevation.

The little woman in her newly adjusted seat.

Both seats slide very far forward and the seatback inclines forward as well. She's ready to race now.

I hope she doesn't wreck my ride. I won't love her any less if she does, but I'll be pissed a while. I told her before I bought the Alfa that she needs to take a high speed driving class before she can drive my car. She can use my car in the school. School is in March.
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Adjusted my seat to the highest setting in front, middle in the middle, and lowest in back to get that bucket tilt going. Feels way more comfortable so far. The change took me about an hour and a half, but if I had to do it again it would probably be 30-45 minutes. Here are some thoughts on the conversion:
  1. I highly recommend figuring out the wiring clips and pulling the seat out. There is a detailed description of how the clips work on page 8 and a video on page 9 of this thread. Those 2 posts together show how easy it is once you understand how they work. I tried shimmying the seat around inside the car at first, but it is so much easier with the seat out of the car.
  2. For the fully tilted setting, I found it best to work from back to front and not tightening anything down until every bolt is in. It's not a perfect fit, with the back bolts in the middle bolts will go into the middle setting pretty easily, but after the back and middle bolts are in you have to muscle the seat into place to get that final front bolt to go into the highest setting. If you have the front and back bolts in first I am not sure if you can get the middle to line up enough.
  3. Once tilted the seat doesn’t go back as far so the adjustment bar will be in the way of the seat rail bolts to the tub. I put in the back seat rail bolts first (didn't tighten them all the way) and then had to sit in the seat and push backward to free up the space to get the front seat rail bolts back into the tub. Without some force, the adjustment bar is in your way of getting to those since there is not room to slide the seat all the way back anymore.
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