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Actually the seats disconnect quite readily. There are two cables, both have quick release connectors that you squeeze near the back to separate them.
The floor bolts were easy and five seat rail bolts came right out, so of course I stripped #6 screw head. Now I have to take the seat out to try and extract the stripped screw, but the electrical connectors have me stumped.

Is there a more precise method of unplugging the connectors than "squeeze near the back?" :huh:
 
Simply used a small screwdriver to push and twist to separate. Once separate, pull on part attached to carbon tub in opposite direction of piece that came out to release (this is the part connected to seat, part that popped out goes into central tunnel).


Video i just did under seat (wife claims I look for reasons to go out to the newest toy).






If this doesn't embed please advise how as I understand not everyone will follow a link to you tube.
 
Simply used a small screwdriver to push and twist to separate. Once separate, pull on part attached to carbon tub in opposite direction of piece that came out to release (this is the part connected to seat, part that popped out goes into central tunnel).


Video i just did under seat (wife claims I look for reasons to go out to the newest toy).



https://youtu.be/zSJ96FiwFk4


If this doesn't embed please advise how as I understand not everyone will follow a link to you tube.
Brilliant! Thanks for doing that.
I’ll add a link to this to the DIY reference thread later today.
 
I was able to get the seat out thanks to @JSTACOG's video. Visibility and access under the seat is not great, but I got the plugs apart and out in a minute.

The one seat rail bolt that I stripped was torqued like a wheel lug nut. My biggest drill could not turn the screw extractor. After shocking the head and a long soak with PB Blaster, I eventually broke it free with a 10" crescent wrench on the extractor. I've broken easy outs with less torque, but the Grabit Speed Out Pro (same tool marketed under various names) worked like a champ.

Mario gave it his best shot, but he couldn't defeat me.
 
I was able to get the seat out thanks to @JSTACOG's video. Visibility and access under the seat is not great, but I got the plugs apart and out in a minute.

The one seat rail bolt that I stripped was torqued like a wheel lug nut. My biggest drill could not turn the screw extractor. After shocking the head and a long soak with PB Blaster, I eventually broke it free with a 10" crescent wrench on the extractor. I've broken easy outs with less torque, but the Grabit Speed Out Pro (same tool marketed under various names) worked like a champ.

Mario gave it his best shot, but he couldn't defeat me.
When you put the bolt back in....make sure the threads are clean on both bolt and lug in floor. Now lube the bolts and put them back starting with fingers only to get started. Those are fine threads and you do NOT want to cross thread them or you will be looking for a tap to chase the threads.
 
I've been following this thread for a while now and a LOT of great information and tips. My focus will be the tilted adjustment and I hope to provide a full detailed summary taking into account all past information and more photos. Until then, here's a collection of some of the most useful tips which collectively is a great guide without having to browse all 17 pages (on a slow server).

Andpopse's step-by-step written instructions:
https://www.4c-forums.com/15-interior/7218-seat-elevation-adjustment-13.html#post931825

06GT's images of the steps (replaces OP's now broken links)
https://www.4c-forums.com/15-interior/7218-seat-elevation-adjustment-11.html#post824641

RKBerta's caution on re-installing seats to tub
https://www.4c-forums.com/15-interior/7218-seat-elevation-adjustment-17.html#post995938

4Calgary's post emphasizes need for caution on re-installation
https://www.4c-forums.com/15-interior/44562-am-i-screwed-i-think-so-any-ideas.html

Racer Z's post on torque specs for attaching seats to tub
https://www.4c-forums.com/15-interior/7218-seat-elevation-adjustment-12.html#post864682

RKBerta's tips including disconnecting seat belt wiring clips
https://www.4c-forums.com/15-interior/7218-seat-elevation-adjustment-15.html#post981800

Enzo954's tips and image on disconnecting seat belt wiring clips
https://www.4c-forums.com/15-interior/7218-seat-elevation-adjustment-16.html#post982124

JSTACOG's alternate method and video on disconnecting seat belt wiring clips
https://www.4c-forums.com/15-interior/7218-seat-elevation-adjustment-17.html#post994692
 
Don't forget my warning about cross threaded bolts: https://www.4c-forums.com/15-interior/44562-am-i-screwed-i-think-so-any-ideas.html

Now that I think of it, I never posted my resolution to that thread. The Vancouver dealership didn't have the proper tools to fix it when they did my first bolt service so I just left it until I had my first oil change at the new Alfa dealership in Calgary. They had the taps and fixed it for $88.
 
So I’m just in the process of doing the high-middle-low setup. It’s a PERFECT feel for me.
But here’s my issue. I have 3 of the 4 rail to tub bolts in. The 4th is totally misaligned. When I look through the hole in the rear outside rail the bolt hole looks like a half moon. It’s half obstructed by the rail. No way it’s going in.
How did they line up at one point and not anymore? Any advice?
Tom
 
Those two rails can be moved around a bit forward and back to line up. Try releasing the bar that lets the seat roll forward and back....maybe the seat is in at a skew. DO NOT try to force that last bolt in if it doesn't line up....that is sure way to strip something. Try loosening all of the other three bolts a bit to let you move the rails around too.
 
Those two rails can be moved around a bit forward and back to line up. Try releasing the bar that lets the seat roll forward and back....maybe the seat is in at a skew. DO NOT try to force that last bolt in if it doesn't line up....that is sure way to strip something. Try loosening all of the other three bolts a bit to let you move the rails around too.
Combination of adjusting the seat forward and aft and loosening the other 3 bolts freed it up enough to get it in.
All good. PITA tho. I think my passenger will suffer with an upright seat from here on out. Zero desire to do that on the other side.
That being said what a world of a difference!!!
 
I just did my drivers seat today. Used the top-middle-bottom holes. Its been raining all day and I haven't been able to test drive it but it feels better to me just sitting in the seat. For reference, I'm 5'7 with a 29" inseam. I can now see the top of the gauges and the ability to lean back a bit further is nice.

The rails can move independent of each other once they are unbolted. So if a bolt hole isn't lining up, make sure the rails are even on both sides.

Another silly mistake I made was trying to take the seat out of the car by the headrest first. Its MUCH easier to remove the seat by leading out with the base of the seat first.

Here is another tip, if you do the top-middle-bottom setup, when bolting the seat back in you cant have it reclined forward (toward the steering wheel) too much or it wont slide back far enough to get the two front bolts in under the hand rail. This is due to the additional lean of the seat bottom hitting the back of the tub. Once you pull the seat back more upright, it will slide further back and give you access to the front bolts.

All of these things were probably mentioned in the threads but I must have missed it.
 
I just did my drivers seat today. Used the top-middle-bottom holes. Its been raining all day and I haven't been able to test drive it but it feels better to me just sitting in the seat. For reference, I'm 5'7 with a 29" inseam. I can now see the top of the gauges and the ability to lean back a bit further is nice.

The rails can move independent of each other once they are unbolted. So if a bolt hole isn't lining up, make sure the rails are even on both sides.

Another silly mistake I made was trying to take the seat out of the car by the headrest first. Its MUCH easier to remove the seat by leading out with the base of the seat first.

Here is another tip, if you do the top-middle-bottom setup, when bolting the seat back in you cant have it reclined forward (toward the steering wheel) too much or it wont slide back far enough to get the two front bolts in under the hand rail. This is due to the additional lean of the seat bottom hitting the back of the tub. Once you pull the seat back more upright, it will slide further back and give you access to the front bolts.

All of these things were probably mentioned in the threads but I must have missed it.
I’m exact same (5’7”/29” inseam) and it’s perfect.
I had the same issues with the front bolts too. Tilting the seat fwd helped me too
I just left my seat in and tilted it. I was afraid of blowing an airbag or having airbag warning lights and I haven’t yet toyed with disconnecting the battery. It’s not as straight forward as on any of my other cars. It seems to have a plate on top of the battery rather than having two basic and easily accessible +/- connectors.
As I’ve mentioned a few times, I’m still getting to know this car. I got it only 2 weeks before having to put it into storage so I have zero play time with it.
 
PITA tho. I think my passenger will suffer with an upright seat from here on out. Zero desire to do that on the other side.
That being said what a world of a difference!!!
I thought the same thing, but my wife wanted the seat raised so I went for it. It was much easier on the passenger side. I raised it to the top at all three points and she is very happy. Also, while I had the seats out I applied some PPF on the CF horizontal and vertical parts of the door sill (the painted sill already has the PPF). That was harder than the seat adjustments! It came out OK so I'm happy too.:grin2:
 
... I haven’t yet toyed with disconnecting the battery. It’s not as straight forward as on any of my other cars. It seems to have a plate on top of the battery rather than having two basic and easily accessible +/- connectors.
As I’ve mentioned a few times, I’m still getting to know this car. I got it only 2 weeks before having to put it into storage so I have zero play time with it.
Disconnecting the 4C battery is EASIER than any other car you've owned.
Check the negative terminal - there is a cam lock on it - use a screwdriver (or maybe just your hand if you have strong fingers) to rotate the lever 90 degrees or so and you can lift the connector from the terminal. Use your thumb to tighten it back on. While you have it off, it is a great idea to clean the contacts (terminal and the connector) with a battery brush and then apply some dielectric grease. Both of these things can be found in the battery terminal aisle at Canadian Tire.

Battery brush

Dielectric grease
 
... I haven’t yet toyed with disconnecting the battery. It’s not as straight forward as on any of my other cars. It seems to have a plate on top of the battery rather than having two basic and easily accessible +/- connectors.
As I’ve mentioned a few times, I’m still getting to know this car. I got it only 2 weeks before having to put it into storage so I have zero play time with it.
Disconnecting the 4C battery is EASIER than any other car you've owned.
Check the negative terminal - there is a cam lock on it - use a screwdriver (or maybe just your hand if you have strong fingers) to rotate the lever 90 degrees or so and you can lift the connector from the terminal. Use your thumb to tighten it back on. While you have it off, it is a great idea to clean the contacts (terminal and the connector) with a battery brush and then apply some dielectric grease. Both of these things can be found in the battery terminal aisle at Canadian Tire.

Battery brush

Dielectric grease
thanks. I’ll have a look tomorrow. I have lots of dielectric grease on hand. I’ll grab a brush tomorrow.
I lifted up the battery cover and thought “yikes. Looks complicated”. Lol
 
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