Alfa Romeo 4C Forums banner

41 - 60 of 66 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
880 Posts
Here are my findings so far with different suspensions:
Spring rates:
OEM sport2235
Nitron R15270
Nitron R365 (52) + 2680(70) + 26
Novitec Black Series5070
Novitec Corse + (KW V2)3050
NOVITEC CORSE+ BLACK PERFORMANCE (KW V2)5070
KW V23050
KW V33050
Novitec Competizione + (KW Competition) - race version90140
Novitec Competizione + - Nurburgring version??

Another important element: On the rear we have McPhearson suspension: on the race track and grippy tires the shock is deforming. The upside-down shocks are stronger (resist better to this deformation).

The only suspensions with upside-down design on the rear shocks are:
Intrax
Intrax XL
Ohlins TTX
Novitec Competizione +

How big is the difference: I don't really know :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
433 Posts
Another important element: On the rear we have McPhearson suspension: on the race track and grippy tires the shock is deforming. The upside-down shocks are stronger (resist better to this deformation).
The only suspensions with upside-down design on the rear shocks are:
Intrax
Intrax XL
Ohlins TTX
Novitec Competizione +
How big is the difference: I don't really know :)
Tractive use inverted dampers too, on both front and rear. As well as being more robust they also save unsprung weight that will help with grip and traction.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
880 Posts
Here are my findings so far with different suspensions:
Spring rates:
OEM sport2235
Nitron R15270
Nitron R365 (52) + 2680(70) + 26
Novitec Black Series5070
Novitec Corse + (KW V2)3050
NOVITEC CORSE+ BLACK PERFORMANCE (KW V2)5070
KW V23050
KW V33050
Novitec Competizione + (KW Competition) - race version90140
Novitec Competizione + - Nurburgring version??

Another important element: On the rear we have McPhearson suspension: on the race track and grippy tires the shock is deforming. The upside-down shocks are stronger (resist better to this deformation).

The only suspensions with upside-down design on the rear shocks are:
Intrax
Intrax XL
Ohlins TTX
Novitec Competizione +

How big is the difference: I don't really know :)
Update on suspensions with upside-down design on the rear end:
Tractive
Bilstein B16
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
118 Posts
Guys, since I‘ve just bought a set of new 17-18 rims and will be putting on Trofeo R tyres, I’m considering to replace OEM sport coilovers with a new kit. I’ve long been running proper alignment and already have rear GMS uniballs.

I thought Nitron R1 might be the right solution for me, but after reading this 3ad I got scared by how stiffer Nitron R1 figures (both road and race) are in comparison with stock sport suspensions. At the front the increase almost tops 300%, at the rear ca. 100%. Novitec displays similar values.

Such increase is so high that I fear that the car might get way too stiff and become basically undrivable on the road and on uneven tracks. I drive my car to racetracks and especially to the Ring back and forth (900km each way). The Ring itself has very uneven surfaces, where excessive stiffness does not pay out at all.

How is it possible that increases are so high in comparison to stock? Were Alfa engineers drunk when they set up stock suspensions?

Secondly, would it be advisable to have a bigger swaybar instead of having new coilovers/springs?

Any tip would be highly appreciated: having new coilovers is prettly costly in comparison to other mods and would like to be quite sure before proceeding.

Thanks in advance!


Inviato dal mio iPhone utilizzando Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,587 Posts
What ratio between track use and road use do you plan on having? 50/50 track/road or 10/90 track/road? I think this is the key justification for moving to the R1s.

I have the Ohlin's and have driven on many road surfaces (good and bad). The 4C, even with the OEM springs, SUCKS on a bad road. You get bounced around a lot, this won't change much with an aftermarket system. Yes, the springs are harder, but the damping is much more advanced. I have noted this before on the forum, the major advantage of the aftermarket systems is ability to curb hop on track and to tweak settings on differing track surfaces. I haven't spent a lot of time optimizing my settings (I have the 2-way Ohlin), but I do have a road & track settings. I can tell INSTANTLY if I happen to forget to adjust when going onto the track (far less body roll and motion). I haven't been to my semi-local track that is super rough, so I haven't developed/tested a rough track setting....

When you go with an aftermarket setup, you need (at the minimum) adjustable end-links. The advantage of the adjustable sway-bar is that you get the adjustable end-links and adjustable sway-bar settings. This allows you to balance the car further (understeer vs oversteer on corner entry or exit)

However, To be honest, my top track recommendations are...
Phase 1
1) Rudi (@GMS) Uniballs - This makes a huge improvement in backend stability.
2) Track Brake Pads - There are a lot of options, my personal choice is PFC-11.
3) Tires - I like the 17/18 configuration for track use, some options include Trofeo R. I use Falken Azenis RT615k+
4) Alignment...

Phase 2
If you are very serious for track use (track use 50% of the time), then I suggest other modifications.
5) Race buckets & safety harness (6 point) - The stock seats are HORRIBLE, enough said....
6) Inokinetic Rotors or Rudi's BBK - Only make this change after you toast the OEM rotors
7) Brake Cooling Ducts - There are a few options out there....they help a lot!

Then.. and only then...
Phase 3
8) Suspension: I would get the Nitron given current offerings plus Inokinetic swaybars & adjustable end-links. Then corner balance the car with the new setup.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Nimo

·
Registered
Joined
·
773 Posts
Rudi, what do you recommend for Nitron R3 settings for 80/20 track/road use? I have the heavier spring rates from Nitron. My track has a good road surface. Also using Trofeo R compound with Titan 7 Rims. 18/19 front and rear.
I also have the adjustable front and rear sway bars set at the stiffest settings.

I believe you have a similar suspension set up as mine.

Current settings below:

Front
R: 2
LC: 3
HC: 4

Rear
R: 1
LC: 6
HC: 9

Your thoughts?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
118 Posts
What ratio between track use and road use do you plan on having? 50/50 track/road or 10/90 track/road? I think this is the key justification for moving to the R1s.

I have the Ohlin's and have driven on many road surfaces (good and bad). The 4C, even with the OEM springs, SUCKS on a bad road. You get bounced around a lot, this won't change much with an aftermarket system. Yes, the springs are harder, but the damping is much more advanced. I have noted this before on the forum, the major advantage of the aftermarket systems is ability to curb hop on track and to tweak settings on differing track surfaces. I haven't spent a lot of time optimizing my settings (I have the 2-way Ohlin), but I do have a road & track settings. I can tell INSTANTLY if I happen to forget to adjust when going onto the track (far less body roll and motion). I haven't been to my semi-local track that is super rough, so I haven't developed/tested a rough track setting....

When you go with an aftermarket setup, you need (at the minimum) adjustable end-links. The advantage of the adjustable sway-bar is that you get the adjustable end-links and adjustable sway-bar settings. This allows you to balance the car further (understeer vs oversteer on corner entry or exit)

However, To be honest, my top track recommendations are...
Phase 1
1) Rudi (@GMS) Uniballs - This makes a huge improvement in backend stability.
2) Track Brake Pads - There are a lot of options, my personal choice is PFC-11.
3) Tires - I like the 17/18 configuration for track use, some options include Trofeo R. I use Falken Azenis RT615k+
4) Alignment...

Phase 2
If you are very serious for track use (track use 50% of the time), then I suggest other modifications.
5) Race buckets & safety harness (6 point) - The stock seats are HORRIBLE, enough said....
6) Inokinetic Rotors or Rudi's BBK - Only make this change after you toast the OEM rotors
7) Brake Cooling Ducts - There are a few options out there....they help a lot!

Then.. and only then...
Phase 3
8) Suspension: I would get the Nitron given current offerings plus Inokinetic swaybars & adjustable end-links. Then corner balance the car with the new setup.
Thanks a lot for your detailed reply first of all.
As to now, I already have GMS rear uniballs, Tarox rotors front and rear with Pagid RS29 fronts and Ferodo DS2500 rears, brakelines, alignment.
Next planned step is 17-18 with Trofeo R.

As to the use, I basically use the car just on track, but I do drive it to and from the track, and the journey may sometimes be pretty long (getting to the Ring for instance is 900 km per leg).

Just one question: would you find smart to get adjustable swaybar before switching to aftermarket suspensions?

Totally agree with you about the seats. Only concern is that in order to have a 4 or 6-point harness you need to either drill the firewall or the chassis (if I got it right): don’t know if I want to do this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
773 Posts
Thanks a lot for your detailed reply first of all.
As to now, I already have GMS rear uniballs, Tarox rotors front and rear with Pagid RS29 fronts and Ferodo DS2500 rears, brakelines, alignment.
Next planned step is 17-18 with Trofeo R.

As to the use, I basically use the car just on track, but I do drive it to and from the track, and the journey may sometimes be pretty long (getting to the Ring for instance is 900 km per leg).

Just one question: would you find smart to get adjustable swaybar before switching to aftermarket suspensions?

Totally agree with you about the seats. Only concern is that in order to have a 4 or 6-point harness you need to either drill the firewall or the chassis (if I got it right): don’t know if I want to do this.
Don't be a sissy, Just drill the damn carbon. I have 6 pt and 4 pt for passenger and it's very secure.
Just make sure triple check your measurement before drilling.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,587 Posts
Just one question: would you find smart to get adjustable swaybar before switching to aftermarket suspensions?
No... Save your $$$. Or should I spend your $ on track time ;)
 
41 - 60 of 66 Posts
Top