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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Before I get into it, I realise this has little prospect of being realised then decided to post it so I can at least be sure the opportunity wasn’t missed.
It requires buyers to buy five units total. I want one so there’s four spots left to filled. It won’t happen but I’ll mention it anyways as it pretty cool.
The engine is based on the Alfa Boxer.
I bought one from an Alfa 33 with gearbox and measured it and measured space in the 4C. I am convinced it is the most suitable, best fitting, easiest transplant prospect for a 4C in existence.
1.It has four cylinders (4C)
2.Its Alfa at their finest
3.Its a boxer, like a V12, a perfectly balanced cylinder configuration without vibration and heavy counterweighting or balance shafts.
4.It sounds amazing because like a V12, it has 2 cylinder banks.
5. It’s so low and flat it fixes a big issue we have with the tbi, CofG. The balanced design gives perfect weight distribution too.

Obvioulsy, this is for car builders and professionals as you need to fabricate everything else involved in a swap like mods to subframes and engine mounts, drive shafts, exhaust and electronic issues.
That’s said, it’s a short engine or bare block you add your AR heads and other parts to.

I have the quote and offer for step 1. The blocks would be manufactured new, from 6061, forged in a mould that will be made from my own OE cast iron 1.7 16v Alfa 33 engine block. The only alterations will be additional wall thickness that will allow for liners with bigger bores and more strength but it should still end up 35-40% lighter than the AR block.
Each block would have cylinder liners made to individual requirements so people can build it N/A or boost, economywhatever.
An optional crank will be forged steel, and will achieve a 1750cc capacity with the larger bore and a shorter stroke as on the 1.2 Alfasud boxer.
There would be further options for connecting rods in forged titanium and piston sets.
The bare block is $2000 plus shipping.
Once painted, externally, it will be virtually identical to the AR block. You would need the engine out of the car and stripped to use gauges or scales capable of discerning the difference between this reproduction and the OE Iron block.

At this point I’d just like to confirm that there isn’t enough interest and I can draw a line under it!

This gives a taste of what can be done even with a very heavy, weak iron block with a history of putting rods through iron.
 

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Well that sucks it won't happen, but at 2k to have my hands and internet-time-killing busy on a daily basis instead of netflix/buying more doodads, it's a bargain.

That said, are there any specs on improvements in oil/cooling passages? The big triumph of the LS are the big passages that allow for faster heating up/cooling down and overall endurance under track/comp/fast road conditions where such a swap would best make sense... So hopefully this is also cooked into the new block architecture?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Well that sucks it won't happen, but at 2k to have my hands and internet-time-killing busy on a daily basis instead of netflix/buying more doodads, it's a bargain.

That said, are there any specs on improvements in oil/cooling passages? The big triumph of the LS are the big passages that allow for faster heating up/cooling down and overall endurance under track/comp/fast road conditions where such a swap would best make sense... So hopefully this is also cooked into the new block architecture?
It’s good to hear from you on this, thanks. We are still at the planning stage so everything is on the table. If the buyers agree and it’s technically possible, it can be done.
Regarding cooling, my intention is to use an electric water pump by Davies Craig. They have a controller with temp sensors so it runs the pump as required to target a chosen running temp BUT opening up the passages sounds great too.
I get the doodad buying. I have a bad doodad habit and eBay doesn’t help.
The Davies Craig means you remove the belt driven pump and blank off and that alone makes it flow better with an external pump connected to the coolant pipes. Gets rid of a belt too.
The electric pump can go faster when needed to speed up flow and it’s removes a direct power parasite and are great for preventing heat soak.
 

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The standalone/non-belted/chained pump imo is the best contemporary solution for long term use, since it can be located for best PMoI/weight geometry, away/sealed even from environmental exposure, and overall less weight since a battery is necessary anyways and the weight penalty between a 95amp generator vs a 200amp generator is easily under 5lbs depending how much one spends.

I can't wait to see this!!!
 

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15 Madreperla white/red, BMW 1M, 996 Turbo, 69 Datsun 2000, 17 STI, 04 Baja Turbo, 89 Trooper RS
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I’m no metallurgist. Is stainless steel the best choice of materials for the engine block?
 

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That sounds touchy :unsure: I’m sorry I said it that way.
I really am becoming a grumpy old man :confused:
Your original response is not necessarily out of line. Nothing against roadsterdoc because anybody can make an error, but I make it a personal rule that if I'm about to say or provide critical feedback that I do my due diligence and re-read or make an attempt to make sure I'm not in error with my initial interpretation. It's not about being worried about what you're saying, but it's about ensuring that you're not unintentionally ruffling feathers that could have been avoided with more attention to the information you've been provided.

In my work place and business dealings, I assume positive intent and generally that most folks I'm working with are skilled (albeit with some flaws) in what they do. Lastly, if somebody provides detailed information, it was with intent that somebody takes a moment to take it in and understand it as best possible, so I try to respect that person's intention by making sure I've read it thoroughly.

The last part is the probably the easiest part to execute in my opinion, but also where we most easily make the mistake in communication. I usually say something to the effect of (paraphrasing) "I'm not an expert (or I am an expert)... I interpreted your post as... per that interpretation, I agree/disagree as follows." Easily in this case, that bolded part was missing in roadsterdoc's response. I don't know about other folks, but if I'm the target of that feedback, I can easily see where the problem is and I'm less likely to take offense for a misinterpretation. Shoot, if I made a mistake that led to that misinterpretation, that's an opportunity to better communicate on my part.

I'm not expert in communication, but just sharing what I've learned in personal communication technique over the years and so far it's been paying dividends. Long story short, I wouldn't agree that you're a grumpy old man, but just a human being reacting in a natural way to critical feedback with no clear correlation as to where you were wrong. :geek:
 

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15 Madreperla white/red, BMW 1M, 996 Turbo, 69 Datsun 2000, 17 STI, 04 Baja Turbo, 89 Trooper RS
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No worries Floro, you’re good! This is yet another example of how this forum is full of fantastic people. Apologies for derailing the conversation from your original post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The Chinese company keeps pressing me about going ahead. They seem genuinely enthusiastic about the project, so much so, they reduced the minimum number by half to make it happen.
I was thinking about this and it occurred to me that they probably plan to produce and sell more of these as crate engines on Alibaba. It’s not unheard of!
 
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