[moehler]

I’m doing a cam/timing belt change and noticed the upper engine mount is fairly shot at only 17k miles. The rubber is cracked and very soft. The bottom feels like it could pop/leak at any moment. Is this normal? My last 4c also had some visible cracking in the rubber at 15k miles, but I never removed to inspect, so I’m sure if it was this bad or not.

Is the only place to pick one up from a dealer? Are there any aftermarket ones to consider? Thanks.

O

 

[Rainier G]

I’m doing a cam/timing belt change and noticed the upper engine mount is fairly shot at only 17k miles. The rubber is cracked and very soft. The bottom feels like it could pop/leak at any moment. Is this normal? My last 4c also had some visible cracking in the rubber at 15k miles, but I never removed to inspect, so I’m sure if it was this bad or not.

Is the only place to pick one up from a dealer? Are there any aftermarket ones to consider? Thanks.

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View attachment 112685 O

Maybe it’s time a for polyurethane alternative.

 

[Jvito]

The passenger side mounts seem to fail quickly. Mine was replaced under warranty at 3,600 miles. Others have also had theirs done as well. The good news is they are pretty easy to replace.

 

[OriginalForza]

Can someone that's done the poly post a link/product/review? Def help us that have yet to tackle this

 

[Antithos]

Surprising how fast this mount deteriorates. Is there even an alternative to the OEM fluid filled ones? I would think even a solid rubber/poly one would be better long term. I can't imagine there is really that much vibration deadening from the fluid filled one vs a solid. There was little to none with the bottom engine mount bushing replacement. This would be a great opportunity to have someone create a complete 3 mount replacement kit. Gale?

 

[wrh3]

You can DIY with 80 or 90 durometer poly, just tape off the mount and pour/fill- let cure and replace. Lots of YouTube videos.

Do It Yourself | Liquid Urethane Motor Mount Inserts | Suspension.com

 

[DrPyro2k]

We are in the process of replacing the timing belt, and we took time to inspect the engine mount. Mine looks about like the OPs. My car is 5 years 16k miles. We are in the process to get it replaced ASAP.

 

[neth]

For the rest of us, GMS to the rescue?

 

[Rainier G]

@GMS This poly mount looks like a the perfect product for you to produce. Everyone will need one eventuality.

 

[4Canada]

@GMS This poly mount looks like a the perfect product for you to produce. Everyone will need one eventuality.

Which is a lot bigger volume than any market you're in so far!

+1. Sooner the better!

 

[Docron]

What is the OEM part number?

 

[DrPyro2k]

OEM Part Number: 68122809AA

Most dealers will quote $240 or so...
I ordered from www.moparonlineparts.com for $170

As the other members noted, they are oil filled so I'm not sure we would want a solid after market version.

 

[4Canada]

OEM Part Number: 68122809AA

Most dealers will quote $240 or so...
I ordered from www.moparonlineparts.com for $170

As the other members noted, they are oil filled so I'm not sure we would want a solid after market version.

Technically, they are only oil-filled until they look just about like yours does (or a little worse).
I think I'd rather go solid. Surely the durometer can be matched closely enough. May not be perfect, but better than a failed one (and not noticing until the next belt change service perhaps).

My $0.02. Canadian, no less.

 

[DrPyro2k]

@4Canada - Mine has leaked a little, but you can still feel the oil in the bushing. It has that viscus fluid feel when you wiggle that bubble. The reason we are replacing is the risk of eventual full failure AND it is out right now for the timing belt change...

My understanding is the "new" part is the WHOLE 2 piece aluminum bracket, and the rubber part isn't replaceable. Might be a challenge to substitute a solid bushing... Just my $0.02, USD, no more...lol

 

[Docron]

Would this be something Powerflex could do?

 

[moehler]

Just got the new one yesterday- big difference.

 

[Mahjik]

FWIW, the rubber is there to absorb the engine vibrations. It doesn't really need to be in pristine condition to absorb vibrations, just as long as it's not crumbling into pieces if you touch it.

 

[moehler]

FWIW, the rubber is there to absorb the engine vibrations. It doesn't really need to be in pristine condition to absorb vibrations, just as long as it's not crumbling into pieces if you touch it.

Agree it’s not catastrophic, as bad mounts typically aren’t. But leaking and cracked and the overall poor condition on the rubber for 17k miles is still surprising.

Also the bubble on the bottom is interesting. On the new mount there’s a metal plate under the rubber... the fluid/pressure bubble there is indicative of an internal failure IMO.

 

[Mahjik]

I'm not surprised on the condition of the rubber with 17k miles. I would be interested to see that same rubber at 40k miles. It would be interesting to measure the amount of vibration in the chassis before and after of the 17k old rubber to new. I have a hypothesis that it will be not noticeable based on the condition of the old rubber.

However, I did run solid (aluminum) mounts on my FD with chassis & engine braces and didn't notice any extra engine vibration so it's possible my body just doesn't care.

 

[JTod]

However, I did run solid (aluminum) mounts on my FD with chassis & engine braces and didn't notice any extra engine vibration so it's possible my body just doesn't care.

I would guess that has to do with the inherent smoothness of a rotary - the few I've driven reminded me more of an electric motor than an ICE.