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I would think if you have a specific issue before the warranty stops they are going to make it good if that issue isn't reserved. But as you mention.....could be dependent on their willingness and ALFA to work with you. Make sure you have in writing what the actual issue and symptoms are and the previous trans flash they did along with copies of those work orders. Put that in an envelope and send it registered mail to yourself and don't open it when it arrives. That way you have certified documentation and the post mark of the whole thing. I don't think you need to go beyond that but others might want to chime in.

Here is a thought and recommendation. Sounds like you just have the original factory warranty. Once it expires and you want to renew it....it gets much more expensive. If you renew before it expires it will be a LOT cheaper. I have the extended warranty which is good for a few more years on my 2015. That being said I have had 0 issues on my car other than a broken button replaced when it was new. But if you consider the cost for major repairs on our car IF something goes wrong....the warranty is good insurance. If you want to get an additional warranty several people have posted about which ones are good so search for EXTENDED WARRANTY on our Forum. Read carefully what is covered....generally it will cover the drive train..... trans, engine, maybe air conditioner, suspension, but not things like body defects, interior, etc. Generally you can get those warranties until you have high mileage on a car...over say 125,000 miles....but our cars tend to be babied and don't get many miles put on them. Check the FIAT/Chrysler program but also check out competition.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I would think if you have a specific issue before the warranty stops they are going to make it good if that issue isn't reserved. But as you mention.....could be dependent on their willingness and ALFA to work with you. Make sure you have in writing what the actual issue and symptoms are and the previous trans flash they did along with copies of those work orders. Put that in an envelope and send it registered mail to yourself and don't open it when it arrives. That way you have certified documentation and the post mark of the whole thing. I don't think you need to go beyond that but others might want to chime in.

Here is a thought and recommendation. Sounds like you just have the original factory warranty. Once it expires and you want to renew it....it gets much more expensive. If you renew before it expires it will be a LOT cheaper. I have the extended warranty which is good for a few more years on my 2015. That being said I have had 0 issues on my car other than a broken button replaced when it was new. But if you consider the cost for major repairs on our car IF something goes wrong....the warranty is good insurance. If you want to get an additional warranty several people have posted about which ones are good so search for EXTENDED WARRANTY on our Forum. Read carefully what is covered....generally it will cover the drive train..... trans, engine, maybe air conditioner, suspension, but not things like body defects, interior, etc. Generally you can get those warranties until you have high mileage on a car...over say 125,000 miles....but our cars tend to be babied and don't get many miles put on them. Check the FIAT/Chrysler program but also check out competition.

Thanks man. I recently had a lot of expenses so I'm tight on money. I will check the insurance and hopefully, it's not too expensive. I'll wait to see what the dealer says and go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Guys,

That's the cost of the extended warranty in Florida with a 200$ deductible. That's the MOPAR Maximum care.

UNLIMITED​
UM2200N​
$5,980.00​

75,000​
UM5752N​
$5,590.00​

Worth it? Or should I just get the Mopar Power Train warranty?

75,000​
UP5751N​
$3,250.00​
UNLIMITED​
UP2100N​
$3,040.00​


I'm honestly only worried about the transmission.

That's what the maximum care covers

• Transmission Case and all Internal Parts
• Torque Converter
• Drive/Flex Plate
• Transmission Range Switch
• Transmission Control Module
• Bell Housing
• Oil Pan
• Gear Shifter and Shifter Mechanism
• Seals and Gaskets

And that's what the power train covers:

• Transmission Case and all Internal Parts
• Torque Converter
• Flex Plate/Drive Plate
• Transmission Range Switch
• Transmission Control Module
• Bell Housing
• Oil Pan
• Seals and Gaskets for Listed Components
• Continuously Variable Transmission (CVT) and all Internal Parts

"Manual transmission clutch parts are not covered at any time. "
 

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At those prices, I think it's a total ripoff. Just have some money saved aside in case something happens. I used to get extended warranties for my cars and never had to use them.
 

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$12k for a 4C transmission? More than a Porsche PDK? Wow, a few weeks ago Ebay had a new one for sale for $1700. I should have bought it and save it. I think eventually a transmission shop should be able to rebuilt one.
 

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Guys,

That's the cost of the extended warranty in Florida with a 200$ deductible. That's the MOPAR Maximum care.

UNLIMITED​
UM2200N​
$5,980.00​

75,000​
UM5752N​
$5,590.00​

Worth it? Or should I just get the Mopar Power Train warranty?

75,000​
UP5751N​
$3,250.00​
UNLIMITED​
UP2100N​
$3,040.00​
Check Zeigler. Those prices seem high.

https://www.chryslerfactoryplans.com/
 

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Yes, we get screwed in Florida for insurances. It has to do with some fairness law that prohibits discounts for insurances and Florida considers extended warranty as an insurance.
 

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Prices for Mopar extended warranties went up this summer from a rather reasonable number to those listed above.
Keep in mind, the full coverage also includes dashboard if you are concerned about delamination. And practically anything else that might turn up.

I'd like to say that the car has been pretty bulletproof, but Samy, your experience has definitely been different from most.

And as to your earlier question about whether a problem noted before warranty expires might be covered afterward - the answer depends on how soon afterward, and how hard your dealership is willing to fight for you against Alfa. There is no obligation for a repair after the warranty period to be covered. But it happens all the time for goodwill, if the failure happens soon afterward and/or the issue was ongoing during the warranty coverage. Don't assume that it will happen. The extended warranty option is basically FCA's way of saying "if you want coverage beyond factory warranty, pay for it". No more, no less.

I think that a transmission replacement job for the 4C will be well north of the cost of the warranty. The part, new, might not be a fortune, but you have to take the car apart and pull the engine to get to it. That simply isn't going to be cheap!
 

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Hi Laura,

The issue was fixed. I would like to know what can and can't do when it comes to issues such as these. I believe you can only refer the users to a dealer close to their location right? My problem is that the transmission is obviously the weak point of this car. Many members had their transmission swap under warranty.

I think Alfa should look into this and do some kind of recall/investigation. My warranty will expire in 43 days and I'm starting to sweat bullets.
Hello Samy,
Thank you for following up with me via PM! Just wanted to give you a heads up that I have responded. Please take a moment to review my message when you can.
Laura
AlfaRomeoCares
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Update:

No news from the dealer, they were flooded and they were not able to look at it.

I'm definitely buying the extended warranty. It's 6K and I can pay on a 24 months period, no interest. It covers everything. It's 5 years and 75,000 added to the current mileage. I'm just waiting for the sales rep to get back to me to see if the automatic clutch is covered.

So far, this is actually good. The 4C is still my dream car and I'm kinda relieved. Also, my next week's work trip to Colombia has been canceled, so I can just drive the car all week. I feel better.
 

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Most warranties don’t cover clutch
Warranties will cover parts failing prematurely, but not due to wear. The problem with clutches (and brakes) is being able to prove the part failed prematurely and not due to wear.
 

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Don't think the issue is clutch wear but some component or electronics/TCU problem. Can also be a matter of doing the ALFA required calibration of the clutch actuator mechanism.
 
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