ah. Good to know there is a path through the cubby hole.
For nav/data - the maps themselves usually come through data connectivity as you drive. The roads and terrain are not stored on the device unless you download them in advance, so the result is you are a tracked blue dot on a big empty map. Without the roads for context, the GPS tracking is useless. You can download local maps so that it can do things like navigation/directions, as well as know things like local businesses without data, but what you still won't get is things like live traffic/re-routing unless you have data. and the extent to which it can find things like "nearby gas" is limited to geographies you've downloaded in advance (I downloaded the whole region).
With an app like Waze, you also get live user-generated reports for things like accidents and speed traps, which is one of the main features Waze users rave about.
I've also run into times when I don't have data turned on that the downloaded maps cannot find a route when I'm really far from civilization, where when I have a data connection it never has a problem coming up with nav directions. I'm thinking when you download local maps, it doesn't come with literally every road and business, probably some prominent subset that covers 80% of queries.
I have the same complaint about pointing in direction of travel as a native interface. I've come to simply navigate home when I want that interface (two button presses) which forces it into navigation mode where I've also set it to always dark mode and turned off the audio prompts, though it's easy to toggle them off and on, if I wanted them. It's certainly not ideal, but my experience years ago was better with Google than other options, in spite of these quirks. I have not tested others for a while.
As for Bluetooth, I'm pretty sure it's just 1:1. My expectation (to be confirmed) with wireless camera is that the wireless dongle I got will preclude a need for an additional bluetooth connection to head unit. So camera>[hardwired]transmitter ~wireless signal~ >receiver>[hardwire]headunit. Each need to be powered separately. The back end from the backup brake lights, the front.... to be determined - ideally I can find the wire that lights up when in reverse. inside the cabin. (the whole wireless setup was only like $20, so if I abandon it and throw it out, not much wasted.
For your OBDII only thing I could think of is maybe to find a manual online to see if there is a code that is needed like with some bluetooth devices (usally 1234 or 0000, or some basic thing). Some also communicate via Bluetooth AND/OR wifi hotspot. Mine is Wifi hotspot only. I've read that people like the Bluetooth better, though I don't know the reasons for that preference.
Oh, the other thing I've discovered through much trial is that I hate the native volume button. I think it's hard to reach and relatively dangerous taking your eyes off the road to toggle volume. I think there should be a dedicated physical button, or at least an always-on-top option. To that end, I downloaded a third-party app for always-on-top volume button, but discovered it does not work at all when running music through Bluetooth from phone, which is one reason for the switch to run Pandora on the head unit. Even then, the one I've tried is buggy, and I'm still trying to find a suitable volume control. Joying does sell some wireless ones, but they are clunky and require taking up one of those wireless connectivity slots we're talking about, so I'm unlikely to pursue those:
SWC - Car Accessories
As an aside I was able to confirm that the 8.8" unit I've got does NOT have a slot for SIM card, which is unfortunate. What I was hoping to do was just get a $10/month SIM to add to my cell phone plan. I reached out to Joying and they sent me this terrible manual [attached].