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I'e put on new tyres three times by now and everytime the car behaves a bit strangely for a few km's. Especially the Pirellis, less so with the Toyo R888R's.

Also, the blocks change the toe quite a bit so until you adjust those settings the car will drive like sh-t...

And I have ended up with a bit different settings than Jamie, I run fronts 0.5 mm out and rears 3 mm in. (Both measurents total and with Jamie's excellent rear suspension arms that eliminate the passive rear wheel steering.)
 
I am a bit confused after reading all 15 pages, maybe that is just a fact after too much reading for me:grin2:

For my previous experience (real car and RC), I used front Toe Out if I want better turn in and Toe in if I want to stable the car.

The turn in on 4c isn't bad at all, but it will soon transform into under steer and if I go on the gas too soon it loses the rear end (happened on my test drive).

I have Jamie's block ready to be install and wonder if the camber is going to correct the understeer, should I just leave the front toe at zero or may be a bit toe in? The comment from Squadra Sportiva is the opposite of what I understand about toe :huh: I may have been learning it all wrong

Oh, also I always want to ask isn't it more accurate to have the driver inside the car when adjusting alignment?
 
Thanks for the help everyone. I was planning on doing a full alignment during my warranty work this week, which is why I rushed to install the blocks. I'll let everyone know when I get my car back in a week.
 
Also, the blocks change the toe quite a bit so until you adjust those settings the car will drive like sh-t...
I think you are completely correct. There was one post, that said they changed to the blocks and it drove great (without alignment). I don't believe that that post is correct now, as when I put the OEM tires on, it drove almost identical to the Trofeo Rs (i.e. squirmy).

-DrPyro
 
Need some quick help...

Does anyone know what the target Caster & Camber is for the Race Blocks? My shop is attempting to do the alignment, and apparently it was way the heck off using the Stock blocks, that they are having a hard time identifying the target caster and camber with the new blocks...

I think its
Caster: 4 degrees
Camber: -2.0 degrees

Is this where others are operating?

Thanks
 
Need some quick help...

Does anyone know what the target Caster & Camber is for the Race Blocks? My shop is attempting to do the alignment, and apparently it was way the heck off using the Stock blocks, that they are having a hard time identifying the target caster and camber with the new blocks...

I think its
Caster: 4 degrees
Camber: -2.0 degrees

Is this where others are operating?

Thanks


That's about right. With 3 shims at every lower mount point I'm at -2.1. Caster is 4.25 if I recall.
 
Discussion starter · #147 ·
Need some quick help...

Does anyone know what the target Caster & Camber is for the Race Blocks? My shop is attempting to do the alignment, and apparently it was way the heck off using the Stock blocks, that they are having a hard time identifying the target caster and camber with the new blocks...

I think its
Caster: 4 degrees
Camber: -2.0 degrees

Is this where others are operating?

Thanks
This is why I had suggested getting a proper alignment done with the stock blocks, then installing the block set of your choice. Now you can simply read the new alignment settings.
 
Discussion starter · #149 ·
That sounds like a lot of unnecessary work and extra expense. Shouldn't the block manufacturer provide the appropriate settings for alignment with the blocks installed?
I think they should, but they don't.
 
Discussion starter · #151 ·
That's odd. It's an expensive and critical part. Wouldn't they know what the proper settings should be with their product? Are they the ones actually designing these blocks?
Perhaps you should ask Jaime at Alfa Workshop about this. It's not like I know what he's thinking. I have a few different ideas about what his thoughts might be, but ...
 
Thanks. I have a few ideas as well. The web site said that the settings will be provided after the purchase, however they only gave me the toe in and I can't seem to get the rest. I have the blocks installed and my alignment shop is waiting for me to provide the rest. Alfaworks simply ignores the question, so I'm kind of stuck. The car was used and I can't rely on the original alignment to be correct. I would hate to go through the procedure you described earlier just because.... Had I known this before I installed the blocks...
 
With 4° of caster and -2° of camber you're good to go, unless you run really sticky track day tyres like the Trofeo R, then you might chose to run a tad more negative camber. Which the race blocks give you the opportunity to do, stock you're maxed out at -2°.
 
Thanks. I have a few ideas as well. The web site said that the settings will be provided after the purchase, however they only gave me the toe in and I can't seem to get the rest. I have the blocks installed and my alignment shop is waiting for me to provide the rest. Alfaworks simply ignores the question, so I'm kind of stuck. The car was used and I can't rely on the original alignment to be correct. I would hate to go through the procedure you described earlier just because.... Had I known this before I installed the blocks...
Paging @jamiealfa - this guy needs some info.
 
Thank you. I appreciate the help. I got the street blocks. This car will likely never see the track. We have some good winding roads here in western Maryland, but lots of bumps.

If the problem with releasing the specs is one of confidentiality, that doesn't make sense either. If someone goes through what Racer Z suggested and does a factory alignment first, then the specs after the blocks are installed will be known. I just don't want to go though removing the new blocks and getting the car aligned and.... I just want to do a proper alignment now that the new blocks are installed. I'm sorry I didn't go through the forum before starting this. There is a lot of information here and I'm thankful for this community.

I did measure the the old and new blocks before I installed them and it is interesting to know that the new upper silver blocks are exactly the same thickness as the original black. I wonder why we're replacing that one.
 
The blocks is really a way of selling intellectual property in the material form. If Jamie gave out the target measures anyone with a milling machine and a bunch of shims could copy the work without paying for all the testing and work that his company has put in.

So, tough balance to thread. Anyway, chose the camber you need for your driving, go with the caster you get. You will love the result. Don't worry if the caster is 4° or 4.2, unless your last name is Vettel or Hamilton you won't feel any difference what so ever.
 
Thanks Tallinn, I don't know what camber I want. I see what the stock specs is, but I assume it will change with the new blocks. I am relying on the experts at Alfaworks to tell me what that should be for the street with their blocks. If it is a certain offset from stock, which what I gather is the correct starting point, then that's what I would like to know. If it takes an NDA that's fine. This has been somewhat frustrating for such a simple request.
 
The point of the blocks is to alter the caster. Everything else you easily adjust anyway. If you only drive on the road -1° camber is fine, on the track you need -2° with ARR tyres and a bit more with proper track day tyres. I use 2'20, some prefer more. (2 degrees 20 minutes = 2,33°)
 
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